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  1. #1726
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    near Rockhampton
    Posts
    6,216

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Anorak Bob View Post
    Nice modification Richard,

    I take it that oil is squirted in via the two holes in photo 1. Would oil nipples be added insurance?

    I like the way wipers. Do you still have your 260 and if so, have you contemplated a similar upgrade?

    Bob.

    Yes those two holes in the first photo are tapped M6X1 and grease nipples screw into them for oil. No I no longer have my 260 lathes. I sold both of them a few years back.
    Gold, the colour of choice for the discerning person.

  2. #1727
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
    Age
    59
    Posts
    6,540

    Default Making light of my situation

    My surface grinder sits in a dark corner of the shed and for some time I've been meaning to do something about it. While scraping I was wishing for more light too, so I've made up an Al tube frame that hangs from chains with a pair of LED tubes on it. The theory is that I can put up eye bolts in other parts of the shed and move it to where it is needed.
    P1030729 (Medium).JPG
    First photo shows the chain arrangement, second photo shows the Al strip with a multitude of holes for adjusting it to fit in the location.
    P1030730 (Medium).JPG P1030731 (Medium).JPG
    Currently it is being tried out and may need a couple of mods but certainly improves the lighting over the grinder if nothing else.

    Michael

  3. #1728
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    near Rockhampton
    Posts
    6,216

    Default

    Made a cutting edge for a mini loader out of some grade of bisalloy.

    Would have been a good job for a planer.

    20161127_095217.jpg 20161127_093313.jpg

    It had a slight 3mm bow in it so I I had to straighten it.

    I had to bow it this much to get it to bend. It came back straight enough but still has a very slight bow in it.

    20161127_100638.jpg 20161127_100702.jpg
    Gold, the colour of choice for the discerning person.

  4. #1729
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    near Rockhampton
    Posts
    6,216

    Default

    My bandsaw which is a H&F special recently decided to wreck one of the pulleys. It is a crap design with the step pulleys and the shaft sizes are all over the place. The motor is 5/8 shaft with a 5mm keyway. The gearbox shaft is 17mm with a 5mm keyway. The gearbox shaft is really long but the step pulley still stuck out from it a long way. Because of this and the crap grub screws they use that driven pulley came loose and flogged out the step pulley bore. It also was M section and the drive was not very positive. So I have fitted an A section pulley system to it. I only have one speed but one speed is good enough. I have never changed it before.

    I had to make the pulley for the motor from scratch, I had a big pulley in the box of surplus pulleys but it had a 32mm bore taper lock in it. So I made up the adapter to fit it onto the gearbox.

    It works well now.

    20161129_151957.jpg20161129_130920.jpg20161129_130908.jpg20161129_130842.jpg
    Gold, the colour of choice for the discerning person.

  5. #1730
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Glenbrook NSW Australia
    Posts
    125

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by .RC. View Post
    Because of this and the crap grub screws they use that driven pulley came loose and flogged out the step pulley bore.
    Yes a stitch in time might be the the thing for the rest of us to think about now...I just going down to the shed and tighten some grub screws....back soon...
    vapourforge.com

  6. #1731
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Australia east coast
    Age
    71
    Posts
    2,713

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rusel View Post
    Yes a stitch in time might be the the thing for the rest of us to think about now...I just going down to the shed and tighten some grub screws....back soon...
    Been there myself - I drilled for more set screws 90 deg around the shaft from the originals, plus I went up a thread size and used Loctite.

    No more problems with the pulleys working loose - so far.

    PDW

  7. #1732
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    moonbi nsw Aus
    Age
    69
    Posts
    364

    Default

    Loose grub screws,.... must be the season. On my Wood Lathe a clicking noise that had been evident for sometime got worse. I traced it back to the main pulley on the head stock. It sits on a keyed 16mm shaft.The grub screw over the key was tight but there was another at 90° to the key way. At this point the alloy is quite deep but the hex in the grub screw "felt" like it was too small. ??? now what? I the grub screw out to examine it and found that the Allen Key was tight in the hex socket.???...now what? The grub screw was ¼" UNC so I got a bolt and cut about 15mm off the end, then cut a slot across the end and.....fixed the clicking.
    I think the original grub screw had stripped the tread just above the shaft. It was only 6mm long. So by using the longer grub screw it found more and tighter threads to do its job. I was a bit loathe to use Loctite with the fear that it might have oozed out into the slot making it bloody hard to remove the grub screw/pulley at a later date
    Just do it!

    Kind regards Rod

  8. #1733
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Wodonga Vic
    Age
    38
    Posts
    633

    Default

    Second go at making the .223 pen, fit and finish is a bit nicer this time around, I dipped the polished brass ends in clear nail polish thinned down with a bit of acetone but I'm not sure how long the coating will last, maybe there's something better I could use?
    DSC_3081.jpgDSC_3085.jpgDSC_3084.jpg

  9. #1734
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Ballina N.S.W.
    Posts
    644

    Default Mill Stop

    I needed to upgrade my piece of angle iron that I had as a mill stop for the last few years, I saw this design a couple of years ago and it looked nice and had plenty of range for my mill. It is based on a design by Royal Products (very expensive), this particular one was designed by "ComplexEdgeX" a YouTube video is available on its construction. The design requires cutting two 11" plus radius with a boring head, I did not have a boring bar suitable so I made one up out of a piece of an old hydraulic cylinder rod and I added a counter balance weight to even up the load on the mill, it worked very well and sliced through the 6061 aluminium bar leaving a nice finish. You need to have a wallet full these days to buy brass.
    A few pictures of construction.
    Bob
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #1735
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    QLD
    Posts
    735

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by NedsHead View Post
    ...I'm not sure how long the coating will last, maybe there's something better I could use?
    Dunno much about paints, though why not leave it bare metal and give it an occasional polish? I'd imagine the pen would end up with a beautiful aged patina look to it.

  11. #1736
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    QLD
    Posts
    735

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by krisfarm View Post
    .....You need to have a wallet full these days to buy brass.
    Yeah. I find watching the chips fly off a piece of brass is akin to watching the $ window of the fuel bowser as yer fuel up the car.

  12. #1737
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Toowoomba Qld
    Posts
    401

    Default

    For an upcoming part that I am planning to machine I need to machine two faces that need to be parallel to each other, and are about 70mm deep on the face. Think machining a U where the bottom of the U is not that important but the sides are critical. The 70mm deep throws end mills out the window straight away, a standard 20mm 4 flute end mill will have a flute length of ~40mm, I may be able to get long flute end mills but any slack in the setup or machine will be exaggerated and IF i could get a decent finish it may still end up with a slight taper that I don't want.

    The part also has some holes to be bored that need to be at 90 degree's to the flats of the U, the solution I came up with. A fly cutter that I can use to cut in and also flip the tool over to undercut.
    Sure I could buy one, eg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0vSeUOJBU8o
    But where is the fun in that ? and they are expensive,
    I have insert boring bars for the lathe already so decided to use them, also had a shell mill / face mill holder that I got with the mill that wasn't being used, figured rather then make an R8 taper on the tool it could just mount to the existing holder. Now yes I could probably have just used a boring head but I believe this setup is more rigid.

    The tool started life as a Hydraulic shaft that I picked up for peanuts from a local machine shop, so it's mystery steel but still quality, it's fun getting through the ~3mm of induction hardening on the outside...

    This is how it looks all together




    And the pieces







    The next small project I want to knock out is a tapered drill to make some holders for my ER40 collets, been getting annoyed with them rolling around in the drawer. Going to make the holders out of some plastic boards I picked up cheap at auction. boards are about 12mm thick and should be reasonably easy cutting so think I should be able to engage all the taper to cut without much issue.

    Cut out a blank, now just have to work out how to cut the flutes so it will cut. Have it sitting next to a normal stepped drill bit for size comparison. The stepped bit is 8mm shank and 20mm at the thickest, the blank is 20mm shaft and 38mm at the largest diameter. This should sit around half way up the collet and only stopped at this size as my raw stock was 38mm.


  13. #1738
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Australia east coast
    Age
    71
    Posts
    2,713

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MasterSpoon View Post
    For an upcoming part that I am planning to machine I need to machine two faces that need to be parallel to each other, and are about 70mm deep on the face. Think machining a U where the bottom of the U is not that important but the sides are critical. The 70mm deep throws end mills out the window straight away, a standard 20mm 4 flute end mill will have a flute length of ~40mm, I may be able to get long flute end mills but any slack in the setup or machine will be exaggerated and IF i could get a decent finish it may still end up with a slight taper that I don't want.
    Perfect job for a horizontal mill, shaper or planer.....

    I assume you're going to be taking quite shallow cuts with that R8 boring bar holder AKA fly cutter. There's not a lot of grip area on a R8 taper, really. You may well run into chatter problems too. But hey, nothing ventured and all that. I just made a slitting saw arbor myself because I have a bunch of 316 hex bolts I'm going to modify into cheese heads.

    PDW

  14. #1739
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Far West Wimmera
    Age
    63
    Posts
    4,049

    Default

    I have been doing some more work on my drill bit sharpening jig. I have used it successfully in the past, but I found some information on improving it. I started working on this a long time ago, but decided to finish it off as I am in need of some drill bits sharpened. I am running out of sharp bits. I also have the Eccentric Tools sharpener on the go, but that will take quite some time to complete.

    100_1851 Cropped.jpgDSC_0022 Cropped.jpg

    The finish is not perfect although it looks worse than it is. I am thinking about trying the fine grinding wheel instead of the sanding disk. Will it hurt which way the wheel rotates against the cutting edge. Lots of tools are sharpened with the wheel hitting the cutting edge first.

    Dean

  15. #1740
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Far West Wimmera
    Age
    63
    Posts
    4,049

    Default

    Before the sharpener I was doing some more mods on my bandsaw to get it to cut straighter. I have not been able to get enough adjustment to get the cut perfectly vertical. Based on a mod I read about a long time ago I machined the adjustment slots wider and deeper, adding adjustment screws. I need to get some grub screws and the caps are temporary.

    I still cannot get a vertical cut so I am going to fit a new blade before I mess around anymore.

    Blade Adjustment Mechanism Cropped.jpg

    From This

    100_1845 Cropped.jpg

    To this

    Dean

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