I am just turning them around for you...
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I am just turning them around for you...
Not telling :q...I am using Photoshop to turn them around. Smartphone and PC are "smart" enough to put the photo into the right orientation when viewing but not the forum. Forum uses "script" and database to upload->store->link the image but not displaying like the application does in windows.
Peter wind the crank around and situate the con rod furtherest to the rear, so that the blade frame is as far back as
it will go and then have a look at the sliding ways on the top of the frame and see if they are all the way back.
Then wind the crank 180 deg to bring the blade frame as far forward as possible and see if the blade frame ways are
are protruding out of the front.
What i am thinking is that the connecting rod might be too long, and a cut n' shut might solve your problem.
cheers, shed
I had the clunker going today and I had confused myself with the abrasive cutter, it is movable but the Parkanson is not. I rang my older sister as we both operated it (times were tough in the sixties) and her memory is better than mine, she said dad had made a solid steel spacer with an edge on it to hook on the back jaw edge.
Tootsie, one thing you need to make is a series of spacers to move the steel you are cutting between the back jaw and the moving jaw to maximize you blade usage. I had a photo of this in a previous thread, but I can't retrieve it from the files?
Good luck, great old machines.
Rgds,
Crocy.
It surprises me that the cutting stroke pushes against the moveable vice jaw. I could set my old Taiwanese clunker to cut the same way by rotating the lifting cam so I'm wondering if your hacksaw has a similar function to convert it to a pulling cut.
On the holding bit ... whether 90 or 45 degrees you should always support both vertical faces.
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Crocy
your sister is right, attaching to back jaw is the go but I will bolt a spacer on there is already a hole there and I can drill another. Can do the same re blade usage but not as worried about that yet. Love the old beast already, working on it quickly gives an attachment, the rhythmic sound, smell of coolant, low temperature cutting and it was cheap!
Thanks mate I think this is a problem solved, now I just have to get photo uploading sorted!
cheers Peter
You can solve your problem the easy way with packers but that does not repair the fault in the saw.
I would be interested to know why probably thousands of these were made and they can't cut a 45?
Personally I would find and fix the fault.
Cheers, shed
Off thread a bit but found an old manual for a different PHS and it explained the hole in the left side of the movable jaw. It is there for cutting from stock that is shorter than half the jaw width. You use a bolt to connect from back jaw to face of front jaw in place of contact with missing stock.you can see the hole in this photo.Attachment 379544
here is a picture taken with iPad using portrait. It’s not upside down!
:D
Attachment 379547
Thanks, yes the rod is too long but I would rather pack the jaws than cut it. I have read that some PHSs have holes enabling rear jaw to move forward for angle cuts and to use more of the blade. Mine doesn’t have these. If I get sick of packers I might hire a magnetic drill and try that.
Cheers peter