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So what you might have to do is undo the hinge for the saw from the base and put in some thin sheet metal on one side to act as shim to square it up.
Michael
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Other than applying a large impact device it is not worth the time and effort to try and make it more accurate. Best thing is use some packing to bring the work up level with the wheel.
This can be pretty annoying I know. I had a similar issue with a sliding compound mitre saw. It had a centre rotating table and side tables like they all do now. One side table was 1.4mm higher than the centre and the other one was 0.7mm higher. Trying to cut a plain square piece of wood close to the end was a joke. I tried to find a saw that was flat all the way across. I couldn't despite the fact that I looked at some of the most expensive saws available. The DeWalt was hopeless. The best I found was a baby Ryobi, but it was still not great and way too small for my needs. Makita had a single table unit for $1k at the time, but I did not have the money. They have now stopped making these.
Dean
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Hi Garfield,
K arp! thats a long way out.
What brand is that saw ?
I reckon Dean has the answer. Even a another base plate, say a flat bit of 6mm laid over the original and adjusted square to the friction blade.
The 6mm would be thick enough to take counter sunk head screws to hold it down.
Grahame
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Yeah, I'm pretty gutted that it is out that much and not adjustable in any way from the manufacturer.
It is a Ryobi cut off saw Grahame, about 3 - 4 years old.
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Yep the base on those things flex more than most mirror loving body builders!
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Garfield
Never give in and never give up mate!
I googled some pics of the saw and though they are not close up pics it seems as though the pivot points are just holes drilled in what amounts to be a pair of vertical flat bars.
If this is so, some surgery with a angle grinder cut off wheel and then a welder may provide the adjustment needed.
Of course you would have to strip the saw down to the deck and take careful measurements, but I have the feeling a cutting wheel kerf thickness may bring it very close.
Test cuts could be done on the tacks alone. I am going to bunnings on Wednesday and will have a close look at a Ryobi chopsaw if they have one.
I believe it is possible.
Grahame
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I agree with Grahame - I think that can be modified. Pity it's not bolt on but you can't have everything. A couple of cuts with an angle grinder cut off wheel or even a hacksaw and it should be able to be fixed.
Michael
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3 Attachment(s)
Hi Garfield,
From what I can see from your photos, the pivot block looks tacked and immovable from the base.
It is a fraction harder but be of stout heart and steady hand and you will succeed.
Basically just after taking careful measurements you can work out which side needs dropping and then just strip the head off
clean the area to be cut, mark it and cut.
I note that the open box assembly is tacked so it may take 2 cuts,1 vertical and 1 horizontal.If you measure off the deck to the holes they should be the same measurement .If not ,there's your error.
If the holes are the same it is likely the error is in the boring(or casting ) of the holes in the head assembly. However the modification to the box tacked to the frame will achieve what you want it to.
I'm off to clean and paint my saw.
As mine is stripped for a repaint I took some pics.Attachment 368451Attachment 368452Attachment 368453
Cheers and good luck
Grahame
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Thanks heaps for that Grahame, really appreciate it mate.
I've been flat out all week at work and working tomorrow (Saturday) so hopefully get a crack at it Sunday and I'll let you know how I go
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