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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Heidelberg, Victoria
    Age
    79
    Posts
    2,074

    Default Hercus lathe, remove saddle and apron?

    Dear members,

    Restoration of my 9" model AR continues.

    I've been leaving the supposedly hard parts till last.

    So far I have restored everything except the gearbox, saddle and apron, and the bed.

    I figured the saddle would just wind off the tailstock end of the bed, with the leadscrew end bearing removed.

    Not so, something else prevents the saddle from sliding off, so before I get the sledge hammer out, thought I'd better ask first.

    If someone knows, what is the correct procedure to remove the apron and saddle, and the quick change gearbox. It looks as though the gearbox will just drop off after removing the screws, the saddle is not so obvious.

    Any advice would be appreciated.

    Attached are a couple of snaps, all green, well, except for the oilers.
    They were just polished up.

    Even decided to paint the blue motor and grey reversing switch, green.

    As you might recall, I started off using an airbrush, and soon switched to a touch-up gun. The little airbrush was struggling on bigger parts.

    Ken

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    sydney ( st marys )
    Age
    64
    Posts
    4,887

    Default

    Never having removed the saddle and apron take this with a grain of salt.
    You may find that you will have to remove the saddle first(retaining plate and nuts from rear of saddle motor side,then the two screws that hold saddle to apron).
    Hopefully then with rear leadscrew bearing support removed apron should come off.
    For your own piece of mind before removing apron pack under the lead screw to reduce any weight that may hang (If unsupported there is the chance that the lead screw may bend).
    When you come to remove the Q/C remove as a complete unit with lead screw attached and dissmantle latter.
    As i've said never done it only a thought good luck.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    A.C.T
    Age
    89
    Posts
    190

    Default Ken

    Well done so far with the restoration,I have removed the saddle but memory with me has become fragile so I can not help,my best suggestion is go to the man who did the major restoration and also refer to his contributions on the net in the past,answers are there,it has been done and reported before.How will you keep the brightness on the shiny metal pieces in the future,also I have a friend who may sell a set of Hercus imperial collets I think about twelve with the head and draw bar for around 150 dollars if you or anyone is interested.
    Regards Peter

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Blue Mountains NSW Australia
    Posts
    408

    Default

    That's looking very nice Ken.

    How did you go with the bearings?
    Have you considered modifying the lathe for a Phosphor Bronze tapered front bearing? It may be cheaper than the prices you were quoted for the tapered roller bearings?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Heidelberg, Victoria
    Age
    79
    Posts
    2,074

    Default

    Thanks fella's for the info.

    Can't wait to finish this project off, spare time is against me at the moment, and the inclement weather.

    Fossil, I wouldn't dream of trying to fit a tapered phosphor bronze bearing, although I'm sure it's feasible.

    When the time's right, I will fit a standard Timken brg for around the $50-60 mark. If that proves to be inadequate, I will have to hock everything, and fork out a wheelbarrow full of cash for a precision 3 bearing. The rear bearing is OK.

    I know it's not recommended to replace only one bearing, but I reckon it's worth a try first up.

    Besides that, I am unable to remove the rear bearing outer shell. It's really stuck fast in the headstock casting. Maybe someone has Loctited it in, who knows!

    Ken

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Blue Mountains NSW Australia
    Posts
    408

    Default

    If the part is loctited in, application of heat will break the bond. It would be better to replace front and back at the same time, although the rear bearing is not as critical as the front bearing for machine accuracy.

    Fossil, I wouldn't dream of trying to fit a tapered phosphor bronze bearing, although I'm sure it's feasible.
    I was just an idea, in lieu of the class three rolled gold diamond encrusted bearings. There are shops around that could do the work, and it would probably cost a lot less. I have a tapered PB bearing in my lathe, and the thing is extremely accurate. The only caveat, is that it doesn't like spinning over about 1200rpm.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Heidelberg, Victoria
    Age
    79
    Posts
    2,074

    Default

    Fossil, will definately keep your idea in mind re front bearing.

    Getting back to removing the saddle, it's done, and the quick change gearbox in between a couple of slurps of "medicine".

    Because I could not gain ready access to the back of the lathe bed, I did not realise there was a plate up under that holds the far side of the saddle down to the bed. What a dill am I!

    Gaining access to the fixing bolts, and by removing the two screws on top of the saddle, off it came leaving the apron in tact.

    The apron slid off with a bit of wiggling, after removing the leadscrew end bearing.

    The quick change gear box with lead screw just fell off after removing the 3 screws.

    Gently lowered that is so as not to bend the lead screw.

    Once these parts are disassembled, stripped, primed and painted, I'll be in business, well almost.

    Will still have the cabinet and wiring to go.

    Oh, the joys of owning a lathe, and not being able to use it! Ggggrrrrr.

    Ken

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