Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Results 1 to 10 of 10
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Melbourne, Aus.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    0

    Question Polishing brass?

    Hi folks,

    Wonder if you can help.

    In the pic you see an Asian chest that I've inherited.

    My mother used to polish the brass straps etc with Brasso and needless to say had to do it regularly. There's white residue in the nooks and crannies that doesn't look the best.

    I'd like to repolish them with a power tool if possible and then coat them with Incralac.

    I picked up a cheap polishing kit to go on a hand drill. It has one felt wheel and one stitched cotton wheel as well as a green and a red block. Would this do the job do you think? And which goes with which?

    Thanks in advance.
    Cheers, Ern

  2. #2
    scooter's Avatar
    scooter is offline

    Super Moderator

    Dodgy brother

    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Outer Melb SE suburb, Vic
    Age
    54
    Posts
    719

    Default

    Ern, if you have the kit I'm thinking of, from memory the green is chromium oxide (fine polishing) & the red (actually reddy/brown I think) is tripoli (more aggressive cutting).

    Could use either wheel for either compound I think, though the stitched wheel would conform to irregular surfaces better.

    What about using the stitched wheel with brasso?


    Cheers..................Sean


    The beatings will continue until morale improves.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Vic
    Posts
    5,629

    Default

    G'day Ern, the felt wheel is used for more aggressive faster cutting and the stitched for light cutting and flat work polishing.

    As for the compounds, is the red one red or more red/brown, cause red is is fine jewellery polishing whereas red/brown is cutting as Sean says. The green is more for fine polishing of stainless and chromium. Your better of with white compound for brass, I should have some laying around if you want some
    Cheers

    DJ


    ​ADMIN

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Melbourne, Aus.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    0

    Default

    Yep, the block is labelled 'Red' but looks more like brown stuff.
    Cheers, Ern

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Graceville. Qld
    Age
    77
    Posts
    3

    Default Polishing Brass

    Rssr,

    Have had a fair bit of success polishing brass with white compond on a loose leaf calico wheel attached to a bench grinder. Comes up really well and will get rid of most scratches.

    In thinking about a polishing set up on a drill - are you going to polish this brass whilt still on the box?

    If so, irrespective of what sort of wheel you use I think you are going to run into problems around the edges, and possible damage to the finish on the timber.

    If it is possible to remove the brass, I think this would be the better option, for you will be able to get into all the nooks and crannies, and also be able to remove the brasso residue where the brass meets the timber.

    Whichever way you go, when you have finished the polishing, the brass should be washed down with a solvent, turps or kerosene to get rid of all the buffing residue. Not a bad idea then to wash down with soapy water and finally rinse off with hot water and dry with a tea towel or compressor.

    At this stage wear gloves, so you don't leave finger marks on the brass, they can show up through the increlac.

    That should do it

    Regards

    Colin Howkins
    Graceville. Qld

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Melbourne, Aus.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    0

    Default

    Thanks Colin.

    Unfortunately the corners and straps are held on with a heap of round head pins so the polishing will have to be done in situ.

    I take your point about the risk to the wood finish. The wheels are 80mm diam so may be agile enough; the strapping sits proud of the timber so that gives me a margin.

    Suck it and see at the back first I guess.
    Cheers, Ern

  7. #7
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    7,182

    Default

    To get the white residue out you can use a dremel tool with one of their finest wire brushes. However, it will leave a fine brushed/burnished look on the brass (In some situations I think it looks more authentic than a bright shiney finish/polish). It will be a lot of work but it will be worth it.

    If you want a bright finish then a polish with the calico wheel and white compound will do it. You don't need a lot of compound on the wheel. If some white compound does end up back in the grooves get the dremel out and use less compound.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Melbourne, Aus.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    0

    Default

    Thanks Bob.

    The residue has built up like a fillet between the timber and the brass standing proud of it so it will be tricky. Maybe solvent and toothbrush depending on what the timber finish is.

    There are lots of decorative holes in the brass so it may also be difficult to avoid residue building up when using a small rag wheel. Sounds like this will be a case of less is more.

    I'm not looking for a bright brass finish; just a bit of a shine before its sealed.
    Cheers, Ern

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Graceville. Qld
    Age
    77
    Posts
    3

    Default Polishing the brass

    Rssr,

    I guess jobs like this is a bit like "how long is a piece of string"

    You've indicated the brass is held on by round headed [escutcheon] pins. Of course while they are insitu you will always get a shadow around them for you will not be able to get to the area immediately around the area where the pin meets the brass.

    Now to the 'how long is a piece of string bit" Those pins can be removed by judicious use of a pair of front bladed wire cutters. The blade is generally fine enough to get under the head of the pin and gently wriggle the pin out. Be carefull not to close the cutters right up or you will lose the head.

    Another way is to get a plasterers small tool, which is like a miniature trowel with a diamond point at one end and a squared off end at the other. Take a file to the squared off end and put a bevel on it, this will also allow you to gently lever up the pins.

    Any scratches you will be able to buff out

    If any pins are damaged you can by pins from palces like www.boxmakersbrassware.com.au

    Then you have to polish the pin heads and coat them. You have to do the pin heads individually [a long job]. When you get to coat them I find the best weay is to make up a number of blocks, pre drilled just a tad smaller than the shank of the pin. Stick 'em all in the holes and spray away.

    Incidentally when you are doing all this buffing, wear a dust mask, all that black stuff is not good for all your airpipes.

    I can turn any job into a marathon. You can now re do the chest itself, once the brass is removed

    Regards

    Colin Howkins
    Graceville Qld

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Melbourne, Aus.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    0

    Default

    LOL.

    Well, think I'll start with a small trial and see how that goes.

    The chest isn't exactly an antique requiring respect for patina etc. but I've no need to make it look like new either.

    Thanks again.
    Cheers, Ern

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •