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Thread: which milling M/c
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11th Mar 2007, 08:38 PM #1
which milling M/c
thinking of buying a milling machine but can't decide on to go for belt driven or gear driven.
I wont to use this machine as a drill, to replace my relic of a bench drill, as well as for milling work.
the belt driven machines I'm looking at are all 12 speed (100-2080rpm) 2 hp models, but the gear driven ones are only six speed (80-1300rpm) 1.5/2 hp.
I'm concerned the limited speed range may be a problem when drilling especially small drill sizes.
Intertested in ppls thoughts
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11th Mar 2007, 08:40 PM #2Member
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- Mar 2007
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- Brisbane
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wat is the machine? lol i dont know wat it is or does
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11th Mar 2007, 08:53 PM #3
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11th Mar 2007, 08:56 PM #4Diamond Member
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- Sep 2006
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- Australind , WA
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Oldhack,
The lower number of speeds of the gearhead machine, is compensated, somewhat, by the convenience of changing speeds. It's up to you whether it is enogh or not. I have a HM-45 and love the speed changes and don't mind that it only has 6 speeds.
A mate who bought a HM-50 ( I think) is not happy his is belt drive, after using it for a few months.
Something to consider anyway.......
How much do you want to spend?
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11th Mar 2007, 08:57 PM #5Diamond Member
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hmmm...That pic wasn't there a minute ago...lol
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11th Mar 2007, 09:23 PM #6
I had decided on a toolex 2hp belt drive @ gasweld for $1650, but then I found a geared 6 speed on ebay that looked good ??????????
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11th Mar 2007, 09:28 PM #7
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12th Mar 2007, 04:30 PM #8
I don't like round column mills.
Or belt drive.
I got a Seig X3 gear drive and square column.
Sweet mill.Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor
Grafton
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13th Mar 2007, 02:01 AM #9Apprentice
- Join Date
- Mar 2005
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- Hillman Western Australia
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- 81
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- 38
wysiwyg
Old Hack,
The Mill you show here is damn near the same as mine which I`ve operated often
over the last 5 years, I`ve made up many "Jigs" to add more use for my hobbies.
Complaints with this type are:
1.Great care to be excersized when changing Belt speeds, or you`ll get an unexpected
manicure ;-},
2. No lube point on Quill.
The round column is not a problem if you fit a "Small Laser light" to the Mill Head and
a "Target Spot" on the rear wall, Makes things very easy to return to dead centre.
I`ve found the Speed Range to be second to none for milling Live steam Chassis, wheels,
cross members and little bits in between.
In lue of a "Tilting Head" I`ve invested in a "Sine Plate" ??$50} U.S.which swivels between 90Deg` and therefore is a very cheaper alternative.
5 and a half years ago these were $1800.00 here in W.A. {the nations capitol} ;-}
I see them on Ebay now for around $1100.00. Such is Life.
I hope this is some help towards your final decision.
Good Luck in your choice.
John.
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13th Mar 2007, 07:34 PM #10
Old Hack
If you choose the last pic mill I have one with a 2hp 3phase motor Aussie replacement,the stem on mine appears heavier.The locking lever next to the spring on the left hand side can be removed ,thru the front plate and the two locking pieces shaped to the stem that then really locks not pretends,they have had tons of time to correct this anomally and may have by now.Mine is sturdy and to blazes with the gymn it gives you a good workout using the X and Y axis.My next project with it is to fit an infinite speed control single to three phase inverter,my mate presented me with two from service in his mushroom farm. Peter
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13th Mar 2007, 07:38 PM #11
One advantage of having a belt drive in a mill (or a metal lathe) is as long as you don't have the tension on the belt ultra tight then it will act as a sort of safety if the cutter gets jammed some how. Better to have a belt snap then have a couple of gears stripped. (and yes I've seen it happen)
Have a nice day - Cheers
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26th Mar 2007, 09:19 AM #12Prairie Joints
- Join Date
- Mar 2007
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- Millicent, S.A.
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- 28
G'day oldhack,
I have a Taiwanese "First" Mill/Drill that I bought s/h in 1992. It came from a government workshop and had little use. It has served me very well to date. You will always find short comings with whatever you buy. I still want a proper Bridgeport swivel head mill but never seem to have the dough when one turns up. I also have a tiny Emco geared head mill which I used for many years making small gun parts. It's on it's third set of gears so I must concur that if you get a jam with a gearhead mill the gears will suffer. Also backlash and possible chatter with geared head mills can become a problem when a bit worn.
Anyway, my recommendations would be if you decide on the round column type belt type,
(1) make sure the belt drive cover is hinged and you can open and close the cover when the head is adjusted down. I had to modify my MD for this very reason. (2) Realigning the column can be a pain in the backside but you can use a laser pointer as already mentioned. I use two fixed pointers (one slides up and down) mounted to convenient points on the machine. This gets me very close and then I use the dial indicator if it's a precision job I'm on.
(3) Make sure the MD you buy has the quick engage/disengage drill handle to quill feed wheel. 99% of new units have this feature but my unit is old and has to be bolted and unbolted.
The belts themselves last forever, in my experience, and I fitted a quill shield so you don't get hit in the face by flying oil out of that area after your regular maintenance.
These machines are good basic workhorses.
Cheers.........Barry.Quote "What one man can do another man can do" UnQuote: Anthony Hopkins in the movie "The Edge". "A problem is just a solution in disguise", author unknown.
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