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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
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    i aquired a Visby through this forum a couple of years ago, moved it with a car trailer with some difficulty.Mine appears different; perhaps a little lighter than yours and I'm not sure I would do it that way again. Getting it from the doorway to its intended location was a challenge as well.
    //metalworkforums.com/attachmen...3&d=1490694958

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
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    Australia east coast
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flo View Post
    Thanks for the detailed response Ropetangler. I can't see any holes either which makes it a little more challenging to move. I'll be engaging a professional to move this machine but I wanted some advice to ensure that had an idea of what should and should not happen.
    Soft slings are cheap, I'd buy my own 2 tonne rated ones, 1.5m is likely long enough, 3 of, and take them with you. Bunnings sell them nowadays. Plus a shackle or 2 with a SWL rating on it not one of the rubbish cheap ones. Yellow pin ones usually have a SWL marked on them, probably 12mm is ample.

    Never pays to stint on rigging gear.

    PDW

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Rosebery/Eastlakes
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    115

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    Quote Originally Posted by PhilT2 View Post
    i aquired a Visby through this forum a couple of years ago, moved it with a car trailer with some difficulty.Mine appears different; perhaps a little lighter than yours and I'm not sure I would do it that way again. Getting it from the doorway to its intended location was a challenge as well.
    //metalworkforums.com/attachmen...3&d=1490694958

    Yours looks like the Mk 2 belt drive version whereas mine appears similar to the Record version of the gear driven model. Mine is not identical to the machine shown on the UK website as it has an additional lever mounted to the headstock which is not present in the early pictures. Not sure what that is until I actually get to view the machine in person.

    I'll definitely be getting a HIAB to move it.. getting it into my garage will be the hardest part too.. I have some heavy duty pipe sections that I will use as rollers to get it inside.

    Edit: On further digging my machine appears to be the 8.5" New Visby and the additional lever is possibly for the power feed engagement/disengagement.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Rosebery/Eastlakes
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    115

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    Quote Originally Posted by PDW View Post
    Soft slings are cheap, I'd buy my own 2 tonne rated ones, 1.5m is likely long enough, 3 of, and take them with you. Bunnings sell them nowadays. Plus a shackle or 2 with a SWL rating on it not one of the rubbish cheap ones. Yellow pin ones usually have a SWL marked on them, probably 12mm is ample.

    Never pays to stint on rigging gear.

    PDW

    Great suggestion.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
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    2,129

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    My Macson looks a lot heavier than this Visby yet the Macson manual reckons it is 1100 kg, my other lathe looks heavier than the Macson and is 1650 kg, it also has a full cast iron base.

    I reckon that Visby would weigh somewhere between 750 - 850 kgs, still it is heavy and you wouldn't want it to fall over, or on top of you.

    As mentioned by Ropetangler sling it from the web between the ways closest to the chuck, then move the saddle and tailstock up or down the bed to balance it.

    If the truck has a steel tray then use carpet squares under it to stop it sliding around, if timber then nothing under it.

    cheers, shed

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    QLD
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    735

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    Quote Originally Posted by Flo View Post
    ...I'll be engaging a professional to move this machine but I wanted some advice to ensure that had an idea of what should and should not happen.
    "a professional" ? Still pay to have a little oversight. There is a major Brisbane factory relocation specialist trucking crew who had a 50kg or so lathe tail stock 'drop off' at a traffic intersection..

    As always, a good start for lift ideas is Lathes UK Lifting - slinging - a lathe

    Sundry notes -
    The cast iron base of a lathe whilst being strong for its intended job can also be very brittle - a sharp hit can crack it. An in-experienced crane operator swinging the lathe hard into the side of the truck or even just dropping it hard onto the deck can crack the cast iron.

    The saddle and tail stock taken full back to balance a lift.

    Once lathe is loaded ensure every loose knob or whatever is removed. Take a spanner to all nuts and bolts and lock bolts etc. Lock saddle if possible or securely tie or wire it. Lock and tie down the tail stock or remove it.

    If chuck is an easy remove then take it off or ensure it is tied down. An apparently tight chuck can loosen up in transport and possibly fall off or just damage the threads/bearing surfaces. Put a bit of dowl in the chuck and tighten it up.

    'If' a lift strap absolutely must go over a lever a block of wood can be used to space the strap off the lever.

    More tie downs better... Look at the load and the tie-down layout. Break the tie-down 'job' into sections. - When the truck brakes what stops the lathe sliding forward? When truck accelerates what stops load sliding rear wards? Truck goes around corner what stops the lathe tipping over or sliding side ways?

    Happy trucking..




    .

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
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    Rosebery/Eastlakes
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    115

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    @shedhappens

    Yeah I thought 1600kgs sounded heavy but I am only used to a small taiwanese lathe that was about 160kg.. Still, I have not seen this lathe in person and have no reason not to trust what people with more experience tell me. I hope it is closer to 800kg as it will be marginally easier to reposition in my garage.. mind you 800kg or 2 tonne is still going to be challenging. It'd be nice if the truck had a load cell/dyno to accurately gauge the weight..


    @
    YBAF

    Thanks for all the suggestions. There was lots of stuff that you mentioned that never would have occurred to me being the novice that I am.


    Yes my use of the word "professional" literally means an operator and a truck! Not necessarily anyone with experience moving old lathes.. You have me concerned now..

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Syd
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    492

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    A friend's new lathe had a missing tailstock, doubt it had fallen off in transit because the stop was removed from the bed, but well advised to lock it in position beforehand. He moved his with a forklift with it mounted on a pallet on the back of his hilux - usually not a good idea, with the number of lathes killed that way - but he did tie it to the mast at least.

    A few years ago, but moving a few items of equipment via a machinery rigger, worked out around 1.3k for a slightly shorter distance, with a stop mid way with a load problem. Cheapest move was via a friendly scrap metal merchant which cost a couple hundred for double the distance.

    Is there supposed to be a gap piece there? Probably like to have that in position before a lift if there is. Toolpost still seems a fair way from the chuck to my eye at least, but ignorant of the brand.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
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    Rosebery/Eastlakes
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    115

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hunch View Post
    A friend's new lathe had a missing tailstock, doubt it had fallen off in transit because the stop was removed from the bed, but well advised to lock it in position beforehand. He moved his with a forklift with it mounted on a pallet on the back of his hilux - usually not a good idea, with the number of lathes killed that way - but he did tie it to the mast at least.
    The tailstock lived to fight another day! I got it back in one piece.

    Is there supposed to be a gap piece there? Probably like to have that in position before a lift if there is. Toolpost still seems a fair way from the chuck to my eye at least, but ignorant of the brand.
    No.. my understanding (and I could be wrong) is that there is supposed to be a gap as it is a gap bed lathe. There does not appear to be any facility to affix an infill piece.. no obvious bolt holes or anything like that.. but yeah it does look like its a bit far away.. There were two other chucks that came with the machine: a 4 jaw and another 3 jaw.. I might have to see how they look..

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
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    Rosebery/Eastlakes
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    So today was moving day and I'm happy to report that mother and baby are doing fine! Oops! Sorry! Wrong forum.. Haha

    As I was saying.. I managed to get the machine back home in one piece (tailstock included) and placed into my shoebox of a garage.. The lathe was absolutely filthy! I removed a bucket full of swarf and treacle-like muck/oil/coolant from the chip tray and had a little attempt at cleaning some other accessible parts. There are a few layers of paint as you might expect so I might need to remove a data plate to reveal the original colour. Looks like it has been painted red at some point although that could be a primer..

    The motor is the size of a small unit block and it looks like the oil pump has been leaking for a long time.. The back of the machine was covered in muck as was the motor. A couple of other issues which were immediately visible were that the compound is VERY stiff to operate and at certain points the carriage handwheel felt like it had more play than at other points.. I am also not entirely sure what all the levers on the headstock do yet but some of their actions feel a bit iffy.. obviously there is wear in a 70 year old lathe but I'd like to pull it apart and have a look.. and there as still fluid (although I use that term loosely) in the coolant tank which has the colour and consistency of custard..

    And for those that want to know.. the lathe is a tad over 2.4 metres long and stands about 1.3 metres high.. over all width is approximately 1.3 metres (chip guard removed). The I still have no idea of tonnage and so that remains a mystery. The bed ways are just over 1.4 metres long but I haven't measured the distance between centres yet.

    I was pleasantly surprised to find more goodies came with the lathe than were shown in the auction pictures. The description only mentioned a single 300mm 3 jaw chuck but it came with 3 chucks - 2 x 3 jaws and a 4 jaw, a fixed steady rest and the additional thread cutting change gears..

    And so it begins..

  11. #26
    Metmachmad is offline Turning useful pieces of steel into scrap metal.
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
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    Riverina, NSW, Australia
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    67
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    I served my apprenticeship on one of these lathes about 42 years ago. New Visby Varia-Drive I think it was called. They were a good honest lathe built in Sydney in the 1950/60s. I can't recall ever seeing or hearing of an infill for the gap in the bed.
    Turning useful pieces of steel into scrap metal.

  12. #27
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    Dec 2011
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    Rosebery/Eastlakes
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    Nice one Metmachmad.. Yeah I honestly couldn't see any obvious way to put the gap piece in securely. It's possible that there might some way to do it..not that mine has a gap piece to try it anyway..

    I basically know nothing about these lathes. I've read as much info as I can online but the level of detail about this particular machine is pretty thin.. not sure if any sort of technical info is available either..

    All the machining work that I have ever done is at hobby level on a taiwanese mini-lathe using online videos as my information source and trying to learn by myself by trying things.. I'm really looking forward to getting this lathe back into some semblance of order and making chips with it ..after I learn how to use it!

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
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    Rosebery/Eastlakes
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hunch View Post
    Is there supposed to be a gap piece there? Probably like to have that in position before a lift if there is. Toolpost still seems a fair way from the chuck to my eye at least, but ignorant of the brand.
    I just had another look at the machine and I had a bit more of a dig in the gap area under the chuck and found a couple of holes which appear to be dowel pin holes. I do believe that a gap piece was fitted there at one point or at least the option to install a gap piece exists.. The actual infill piece has long since been lost from this machine.. If anyone has one I'd be interested in hearing from you..

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