Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 57
  1. #16
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    5,942

    Default

    Now that's a MAN CAVE, a classic car and a HOT ROD. What more could a man want, besides more details on the ROD, PLEASE??? Like, when did you start building it, why, model, plans for it etc, please.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    melbourne australia
    Posts
    3,228

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by OxxAndBert View Post
    Some form of radiant heater where you are working is much more effective than trying to heat the whole workshop.
    There's no doubt a radiant heater is more cost effective, but overall I'd say they are less effective if you move around the worksop a lot. I have both. I originally installed an NZ made ARAI radiant heater. A couple of years later a mate gave me a Rinnai fan powered flue-less heater. Now I use both heaters to get the workshop to temp quickly, then I switch off the radiant. The problem with the radiant is they are only really effective if the infra red heat is falling on your body. If you move around the workshop they lose effectiveness. They can also make your head hot if they are close by.

    If you are limited to LPG then a radiant on a trolley would be a good option.
    Chris

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Australia east coast
    Age
    71
    Posts
    2,713

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jack620 View Post
    There's no doubt a radiant heater is more cost effective, but overall I'd say they are less effective if you move around the worksop a lot. I have both. I originally installed an NZ made ARAI radiant heater. A couple of years later a mate gave me a Rinnai fan powered flue-less heater. Now I use both heaters to get the workshop to temp quickly, then I switch off the radiant. The problem with the radiant is they are only really effective if the infra red heat is falling on your body. If you move around the workshop they lose effectiveness. They can also make your head hot if they are close by.

    If you are limited to LPG then a radiant on a trolley would be a good option.
    There is *no way ever* I would run an unflued gas heater in my workshop, and that goes double for LPG. Take a look at the amount of water vapour produced and then decide if you think it's a good idea.

    Insulation is good but hard to do if your roof is 5.5m above the floor. I'm zoning sections off for the precision machinery now I've got the boat out and can rearrange things.

    PDW

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    melbourne australia
    Posts
    3,228

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by PDW View Post
    There is *no way ever* I would run an unflued gas heater in my workshop, and that goes double for LPG. Take a look at the amount of water vapour produced and then decide if you think it's a good idea.
    You don’t think I would have noticed by now if it was a problem? I’ve been using that heater for about 5 years. The only thing in my workshop that gets rust on it is my table saw top. An occasional coat of wax keeps that under control. In fact, I don’t even get condensation on the windows while the flue-less heater is running, so the moisture produced must be minimal.

    So I still think it’s a good idea.
    Chris

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    78

    Default

    If you think your shed is a mess? Even though I don't have the room I bought a blasting cabinet and managed to shoehorn it in. I also made up another blasting cabinet using a wheely bin. The wheely bin is for garnet, the cabinet for glass bead. I did try soda but after two minutes the soda has broken down so fine it is useless. Cleaning soda up afterwards is problematic, the soda just turns to white mud and gums up all the oil and fuel galleries so I gave it a miss. Garnet is great for preparing to paint and glass bead great for just cleaning. Doesn't matter how well I seal the cabinet, the glass beads find their way out and coat everything, soda was even worse. I had to rig up a large area using drop sheets for blasting the crankcase as the cabinets simply weren't big enough, the mess from that was all pervading. I've finished the blasting for now and moved on to polishing the shiny bits, another filthy job. I wear a bunny suit with hood, swimming goggles, paint respirator and still I get coated in glass beads, garnet rouge and mop cast offs. The wife says I have some filthy habits, always knows where I've been, just follows the foot and hand prints.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    837

    Default My shed mistakes

    My shed is 6m x 9m with 3m to the eaves. it has a number of problems that you could avoid.

    1) It isn't big enough and I have no serious sized machines.
    2) When I first built the shed I put a couple of sheets of polycarbonate in the roof for light but that let in a lot of heat so i removed them.
    3) Roller doors let in a lot of dust through the top I will eventually get rid of them as do any other gaps and cracks.
    4) I started putting stuff in it before I lined it now I am lining it and adding further insulation and it isn't easy when you have 75% of the floor area taken by stuff.

    The good things about it are
    1) The height helps with temperature in hot weather.
    2) I used aircel insulation under the cladding and that made a big difference in hot weather.

    Being in Adelaide we haven't really had any real moisture for me to be able to comment.

    Eric

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    melbourne australia
    Posts
    3,228

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by lamestllama View Post
    3) Roller doors let in a lot of dust through the top I will eventually get rid of them as do any other gaps and cracks.
    They do. On my ToDo list is to fit sealing brushes to my roladoors. This place has a sample pack of different size brushes and mounting strips.

    https://www.busybee.com.au/product-c...efore-you-buy/
    Chris

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,651

    Default Our METALWORK sheds -Ongoing deeds and tales of life in the shed.

    If putting in new concrete, take the extra step of painting it at the time as a painted floor is SO much easier to clean up, and once you let it get dirty you'll never bother to paint it.

    Doesn't have to be any fancy epoxy coating or 2pak - just single pack polyurethane paving paint. I get mine from Tradepaints for roughly $200/20L drum. One 20L drum did 3 coats on 90m2 of floor.
    I just let the new concrete cure for about a month, then acid etched it and painted.

    Oil spills just wipe up, its easier to sweep than bare concrete and if you happen to be rolling around on the floor under a vehicle etc then its much easier to move around on.
    I haven't had any issues with it being slippery but you do need to be aware that spillages don't soak in like they do on bare concrete and definitely do need to be wiped up.




    Steve

  9. #24
    BobL is online now Member: Blue and white apron brigade
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    7,182

    Default

    My first shed was the ~3 x 3m end of the family garage that I set up as a bit of a workshop when I was 13. My uncle who worked as a carpenter up north in the early 60's, lived with us for a while and left all his tools with us and went travelling OS and never came back. A year or so later he said I could have his tools - note he did not give them to my dad who was pretty ham fisted and broke most things he touched. I still have some of the chisels my uncle gave me the main reason I don't have much of the rest is dad used them!

    Metal working wise the only relevant tools were a few files, a hacksaw and two power drills (Skill and a B&D, just 1-2 bits). I built a basic bench out of 2 x 4 rough sawn jarrah we got from the mill where dad worked. Then I worked for 3 weeks full time at the local supermarket during the holidays which covered the cost of a 4" vice (still have it and still use it more than the other vices in my current shed) and a set of imperial bits 1/8 to 1/2" . I made quite a few things in that shed but what I really liked making was model aeroplanes and cracker guns (best not go into details), - it was my spot and I fiercely defended my patch.

    2 Years later we moved to a brand new housing commission house, totally bare back yard, no shed so step one was build it. A 3 x 2 m thing made of salvaged 3x2 and 4x2 and corrugated iron. 2m high roof - Gawd it was hot! Mum helped me because dad was incapacitated. I still remember her levelling teh concrete which we hand mixed in a wheel barrow and used broken bits of brick and rocks as the filler. The shed was full of crap from the house move including 2 bikes plus some furniture so I really only had the bench spot to work on. This shed was where I undertook my first foray into electrical and electronics taking apart all sorts of electrical gear to see how it worked. I remember getting my first serious boot. I don't know how we survived.

    Then I taught high school in the country for a few years. The school was an Ag school and had good workshops which I could use more or less at any time. They also ran various TAFE type work classes in the evenings. I taught photography one night a week and attended a welding course on another. Made a lot of good stuff, car ramps, jacks, BBQs, various racks and stuff for my motor bike. We use the pits to much about with cars. Replacing my later to be SWMBO's muffler was how we sort of met.

    My next real "shed" happened when was in my mid 20s' , a 3 x 3 space at the end of garage at the place we were renting. I acquired a cheap chinese bench grinder, and ab old CIG welder from my BIL, and managed to set the sawdust on the floor on fire a couple of times from not cleaning up. I also acquired a small combo WW machine and managed to dock 5mm off the end of my ring finger. The most useful thing I made metalwork wise was a welding bench from old bed frames. Even though it was in bad shape (ie rusty - oily) I still had it up till a couple of years back when I put it up as a free bench on Gumtree and a Bloke in a fancy 4WD BMW came and got it. He said his wife who ran an antique shop wanted it?

    In the late 70's we moved into our own old house with a small garden shed - that was replaced with a ~20m^2 (wood and galv pipe frame, Fibro walls and sheet metal roof.) shed and I used the majority of it as workshop with the welding bench made from old bed frames, and another "bench" consisting on two cardboard boxes and a door. The cardboard boxes were later replaced with trestle legs.

    Over time the Bench grinder got its own welded pedestal, and the combo machine continued to spew forth lots of sawdust. Over the years I bought more woodwork machines and ended up with a 12" TS, a 19" bandsaw and 10" combo jointer planer on the back veranda. The small woodworking combo machine that I docked my finger on was almost chucked out but I converted it to a metal cutting saw with thin kerf blade - that cut a heap of metal. I had half a rectangular olive oil can under the dust chute and emptied the metal dust out of it many times. I still had my BILs welder up until his son (BIL had since passed) came and got it and I replaced it with a $99 cheapie from bunnings - it could weld 3 and bit welding rods before its thermal overload switch would kick in ai the I had to wait for 20 minutes for it to cool down. Another (boilermaker) BIL saw what I was using and loaned me his mice DEC Rainbow inverter (beautiful machine to use I had that for ~5 years) until I bought a Token Tools machine. Made a lot of chainsaw milling stuff with that welder.
    This is a 360º pano inside that shed.
    shed1m.jpg

    In 2011 I added 24m^2 extension to the old shed. The new shed has a solid galv steel frame with real roof trusses and Colorbond external cladding, insulated. Because it was going to be the MW part of the shed lined internally with Minorb. It also has a sink, AC, reticulated compressed air with compressor outside, and 6" dust extraction with dust collector outside the shed, fully vented welding booth, plus. This is a really nice shed to work in even in high summer.

    New shed alongside old shed
    Whoshedcomplete2.jpg


    The old shed section had slumped in one corner and the floor was uneven so the floor was replaced, the slumped corner jacked back up and a short extension welded in place, the old fibro cladding covered with the same Colorbond as the new shed and rewired. I insulated it with air cell, and lined this one with plasterboard as it was supposed to be the ww end of the shed. Instead it has become the lab/electrical part of of the shed. Being ~300mm lower than the new shed it's not quite as comfortable to work in as the new part but if the AC has been running for an hour or so its fine.

    Of course it is still way too small and I'm still making large stuff on the patio table like I used to 40 years ago.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    837

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    Of course it is still way too small and I'm still making large stuff on the patio table like I used to 40 years ago.
    Me too.


    Perhaps Caskwarrior should build a patio suitable for the large projects too?

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Australia east coast
    Age
    71
    Posts
    2,713

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jack620 View Post
    You don’t think I would have noticed by now if it was a problem? I’ve been using that heater for about 5 years. The only thing in my workshop that gets rust on it is my table saw top. An occasional coat of wax keeps that under control. In fact, I don’t even get condensation on the windows while the flue-less heater is running, so the moisture produced must be minimal.

    So I still think it’s a good idea.
    Don't care what you've noticed or haven't noticed, the laws of chemistry don't care either.

    C3H8 + 5 O2 → 3 CO2 + 4 H2O + Heat

    Note the 4 water molecules produced for each LPG molecule burnt.

    That water vapour is going somewhere, your shed is probably well enough ventilated that it isn't a problem for you. Fine - but the water vapour is being produced regardless and with a tigher sealed shed, it likely *will* cause problems.

    PDW

  12. #27
    BobL is online now Member: Blue and white apron brigade
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    7,182

    Default

    If you don't vent using sufficient fresh air the water will be the least of your worries.

    I have mains gas in my shed but after what gas heating and cooking did to my wife got rid of all our internal unflued gas appliances.
    It's effects are slow and insidious (frog in hot water effect) and the older you are the more it is likely to affect you

    My main gas forge is unflued but I do vent with 2600 CFM of fresh air.

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    melbourne australia
    Posts
    3,228

    Default

    Was it CO that affected your wife Bob?
    Chris

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Bungama SA
    Age
    52
    Posts
    960

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by brainfreeze View Post
    lets get some pics going,

    Attachment 378903

    what do yas think?
    I spotto an earlybird... green is nice

    I'm a XP man myself... one day after another 20 other projects I'll get started on the old bird
    ....................................................................

  15. #30
    BobL is online now Member: Blue and white apron brigade
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    7,182

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jack620 View Post
    Was it CO that affected your wife Bob?
    We don't know.
    The following is of course written in hindsight.

    Just after we moved into our 100 year old (ie leaky) house (with old school gas stove and and inside unflued gas HWS) in early 1978 she slowly started feeling queesy and wheezy . In late autumn and winter when we bought an unflued gas space heater her problems got worse and finally went to see a doc about it. The doc advised we remove (lime green shag pile) carpets and we did but this made no difference. This went on for years with multiple visits to doctors and specialists and in 1990 we went to live in the US (electric heating) and her problems went away overnight, and 2.5 years later when we came back the symptoms slowly appeared again. When we did major renos in 1994 the gas stove was replaced with an electric oven and a gas cooktop, and a new gas HWS was located outside, but she got worse especially in winter and now she started losing days off work. Neither we or the docs could work out what was wrong. Later we attributed this to the renos effectively sealing up the worst of the leaks in the house and reducing ventilation. Sometime in the late 90s, a doctor finally suggested it could be the gas heater and suggested we improve ventilation but even leaving the house doors and window open made little difference. What did improve things was not using the heater and wearing an extra layer of clothes. A few years later we got replaced the gas cooktop with an electric, and installed reverse cycle AC and ever since then she has been fine. The space heater went onto the verge.

    I should add if she now visits a place that uses unflued gas heating she does not feel the problem right away but instead of taking say a month to feel its effect it now only takes a few days for her to feel the symptoms. She has also now has a general sensitivity to hydrocarbons like petrol etc and gets instantly queasiness say when refuelling a vehicle. Initially I suspected it was a ploy to get me to refuel her car or not mow the Hankerchief size lawn ! However, since buying a battery powered mower she has no problem using it.

Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Life after Binky
    By Grahame Collins in forum GENERAL DISCUSSION / OFF TOPIC
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 16th Mar 2019, 08:25 PM
  2. Mens sheds Ryde Sydney area
    By PDW in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 29th Jun 2015, 11:05 AM
  3. Arc rod shelf life.
    By Optimark in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 29
    Last Post: 13th Jun 2013, 07:43 PM
  4. Show us ya metal working sheds and tools W/Pics!!!
    By 355tonner in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 212
    Last Post: 1st Jun 2012, 09:38 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •