Thread: Swivel head band saw thoughts

Originally Posted by pipeclay

You may have to go to a dedicated saw blade supplier.

I have been searching but none that I have found have the size.I cannot even find the size on a roll,so I could braze my own

Have you tried Henry Bros Saws - Bandsaw blades & circular saw blades

What size blade do they take?
Always good sticking with mainstream blades for price wise.

Originally Posted by jack620

No, the bimetal blades for the BS-5S aren't available from H&F. I'd be keen to hear if anyone has found them at a reasonable price in Melbourne.

$14.65 per meter not in Melbourne though https://www.bestblades.com.au/bi-met...i-metal-blades

bandsaw pro cons.png Pros and cons....Another big pro for the B005 is the availability of M42 blades

Originally Posted by Harry72

Have you tried Henry Bros Saws - Bandsaw blades & circular saw blades

Thanks for that they have 20mm,1mm too big, I will have to find out if that size will fit.Very close though

I had a BS-5S, it required minor adjustments to get it to cut true. I found it was some what under powered and required modification of the spring so it would cut unattended.

From memory I purchased bi metal blades from a place in Seven Hills - Australian Bandsaw Co - doing a search now and it appears they're closed for good.

I replaced it a few years ago with an EB-260V that was on special and I haven't used my cold saw since.

Originally Posted by Jon_77

I had a BS-5S, it required minor adjustments to get it to cut true. I found it was some what under powered and required modification of the spring so it would cut unattended.

From memory I purchased bi metal blades from a place in Seven Hills - Australian Bandsaw Co - doing a search now and it appears they're closed for good.

I replaced it a few years ago with an EB-260V that was on special and I haven't used my cold saw since.

That's a nice saw, one I want to convert me 6x4 bandsaw to with the swivel mount.
I only wish my larger saw was like that as well.

Originally Posted by jonnydot

Pros and cons....Another big pro for the B005 is the availability of M42 blades

That is a plus.

However I don't think comparing these two saws, as you have, is very valid. They appear to be designed for different workplaces.

The HP difference is huge, but the BS-6V is direct drive, so it needs the extra grunt because it doesn't have the advantage of a gearbox.

If you are happy to stand there the whole time making the cut the BS-6V might be a better choice for you. It would be great for RHS and round tube, but it can take a long time to cut large solid sections.

I extended the vice jaws on my BS-5S and modified the motor mounts, as they are absolute sh*t out of the box.

Originally Posted by jack620

That is a plus.

However I don't think comparing these two saws, as you have, is very valid. They appear to be designed for different workplaces.

The HP difference is huge, but the BS-6V is direct drive, so it needs the extra grunt because it doesn't have the advantage of a gearbox.

If you are happy to stand there the whole time making the cut the BS-6V might be a better choice for you. It would be great for RHS and round tube, but it can take a long time to cut large solid sections.

I extended the vice jaws on my BS-5S and modified the motor mounts, as they are absolute sh*t out of the box.

I was thinking a bag of sand on the handle and a micro switch to stop the motor

The more I dwell on it,the more I see downfalls of both saws and I think I will wait a little longer, do more research and spend more money on a saw that is a huge over kill for my needs.I can see myself not being happy if I purchased either of those saws.Instead I feel I should set my sights a bit higher to something like Hafco's BS-7DS https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/B008A. A couple more weeks of waiting won't kill me lol In the meantime on tues/wed a delivery of a 10" Austsaw rotary hacksaw blade will arrive and I will use that on my AEG miter saw and I will purchase a new AEG Compound mitre saw for timber cutting.Here is the blade I purchased last Tuesday https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10-250mm...frcectupt=true and here is a link to Austsaw's site for those interested Austsaw Rotary Hacksaw Circular Saw Cutting Blade Products Here is a link to the AEG saw https://www.bunnings.com.au/aeg-2000...e-saw_p6230171 Again please voice your opinions on the Hafco BS-7DS band saw and any others that are similar.As always Thanks for reading and for everyone's continued help

Those circular hacksaws say they are rated for 4800 rpm BUT if those RPMs or anything around those RPMs are used to cut steel that blade simply won't last very long. The blade will last longer when running at 1400 rpm but unfortunately the AEG won't do that. For 1400 rpm light (<6mm) steel cutting there are more specific blades and machines that will specifically do that.

When the noise and sparks they generate at those speeds are factored in I reckon those generic blades are a poor choice for steel cutting. If you need to cut steel I would have put the $150 straight into buying a bandsaw.

However, those types of blades are really useful for cutting plastic, Al and even the occasional/slow cross cutting of wood. Because I cut more Al than I do wood, I have a $69 12", "Chinese Bosch" version this blade with 96 teeth blade mounted on my TS as my standard blade but it has never touched steel. They blade is some 11 years old and still cuts very well. On Al I rub wax along the cut line if I am cutting more than a a few cm and that helps prevent galling on the teeth.

For steel I use a 30 year old school 6x4 BS that cost me $100 some 10 years ago that has been extensively modified so it can do 6 x ~5 cuts. Over time I have replaced all the plastic knobs and levers, the spring tension downforce system has been replaced with an hydraulic damper, added coolant lube system using a Washing machine water pump, increased its height so I don't have to bend over so far to see what is going on, and when the motor died I doubled the motor HP. It looks like a POS but it works.

Unfortunately it doesn't have a swivel head so I have to move it into the shed doorway to make angled cuts which is only needed 2-3 times a year. I keep thinking about upgrading it but if it keep cutting I can't justify it.

That bandsaw would be my pick with it's swivel head.
I have an older same size saw but in Gasweld toolex brand with out the swivel.
This type of swivel is what I'm looking to do with my 6x4 bandsaw as moving the vice is a pain.

[QUOTE=BobL;1948837]Those circular hacksaws say they are rated for 4800 rpm BUT if those RPMs or anything around those RPMs are used to cut steel that blade simply won't last very long. The blade will last longer when running at 1400 rpm but unfortunately the AEG won't do that. For 1400 rpm light (<6mm) steel cutting there are more specific blades and machines that will specifically do that.

When the noise and sparks they generate at those speeds are factored in I reckon those generic blades are a poor choice for steel cutting. If you need to cut steel I would have put the $150 straight into buying a band saw.

I purchased the Blade originally instead of buying a band saw. The other half told me to stop being a tight and buy a band saw .Thought it best not to argue the point lol, I decided on the Austsaw blade because I thought they were better quality.There were other brands far cheaper.Guess I was wrong.I have two 14" Hitachi drop saws but I hate using them,sparky noisy things they are !Most of my steel cutting will have a 2.5mm wall,my next project, a 2 x 72" belt grinder will be made from 6 mm wall so that will test the blade out

Originally Posted by Dave J

That bandsaw would be my pick with it's swivel head.
I have an older same size saw but in Gasweld toolex brand with out the swivel.
This type of swivel is what I'm looking to do with my 6x4 bandsaw as moving the vice is a pain.

I don't move my vise as it's a pain as you say. What I did was to make angles that I commonly cut, out of 50 X 6 flat bar, have a hook on the end to catch the vise and stop slipping. I also welded a nut to the back to allow the stop bar and block to be attached.DSCF0154.jpg
Kryn