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Thread: Parting tool

  1. #1
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    Default Parting tool

    Question :
    What is the best, most forgiving type of parting tool ?

  2. #2
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    I personally like the Armstrong style parting tool holders. The ones with the "spring" head.
    YMMV.

    Edit - like this ARMSTRONG-USA-No-32-R-LATHE-PARTING-TOOL-HOLDER.jpg
    Cheers.

    Vernon.
    __________________________________________________
    Bite off more than you can chew and then chew like crazy.

  3. #3
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    The T - cross section parting tools seems to leave the others for dead.

  4. #4
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    Agree with Bob with the caveat that it needs to be a good one like the cobalt ones from Eccentric Engineering with the hollow ground top surface.
    Chris

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  6. #6
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    There is nothing special with respect to that holder - it just holds a carbide tip. Depending on your lathe, it might be rigid enough to use a carbide parting tool or it may not. Carbide tips are usually not as sharp as HSS and so a smaller lathe may not have the grunt to use them. They are also wider than a knife tool for example, so if you think cutting forces, they are higher. Any parting tool must be set so it is cutting on centre.
    If you have a lathe with a few kW then carbide is an option but otherwise I would stick with HSS. Carbide is not as forgiving as HSS as it normally breaks rather than blunts or bends

    Michael
    Last edited by Michael G; 9th Apr 2019 at 07:00 PM. Reason: added a bit

  7. #7
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    Hi Phaser, Guys,

    I use a ridged rear mounted blade. The cross section is a "V" shape and is 1/16" thick at the top. Easy to sharpen the flat front face. I do admit to having broken the end off the blade a couple of times, forgetting to wind the blade out before moving the saddle.

    25062015-016.JPG 25062015-012.JPG
    My holder and the data on the blade.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  8. #8
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    [QUOTE=Vernonv;1948508]I personally like the Armstrong style parting tool holders. The ones with the "spring" head.
    YMMV.

    Agree, these work well for me too.

  9. #9
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    I'm far too inexperienced to give any kind of meaningful opinion on parting tools, only that with my new lathe, I got me this one:
    Parting Tool.jpg

    Seems to work fine on steel, but when I was parting off a series of bronze bushes, it tended to gouge as I fed it in, kind of taking up the backlash each time I turned the cross slide. I tried re-positioning it slightly above centre, but it didn't help. The bushes all parted off fine, but the gouging action was a bit off-putting.

  10. #10
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    Wrong insert for bronze/brasses.

    Otherwise a nice tool but more expensive than a HSS blade !
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Hi Phaser, Guys,

    I use a ridged rear mounted blade. The cross section is a "V" shape and is 1/16" thick at the top. Easy to sharpen the flat front face. I do admit to having broken the end off the blade a couple of times, forgetting to wind the blade out before moving the saddle.

    25062015-016.JPG 25062015-012.JPG
    My holder and the data on the blade.
    I agree with this type of parting blade and had great results.
    I've never tried rear mount running in reverse, but will get around to it one day when I decide to drill my lathe cross slide
    Quality HSS (as you have) helps a lot over most of the Chinese rubbish sold as HSS parting blades.
    Using Tapatalk

  12. #12
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    Hi Dave,

    Don't attempt to run the lathe in reverse ! The parting tool should be upside down !

    This has the advantage that swarf tends to fall out of the cut and not jam the blade. I also use Temaxol or Trefolex on the blade as a cutting lubricant. Because both these products are pastes they stick to the blade and melt as the blade gets hot. I also use Diesel and WD40 on aluminium materials.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Hi Dave,

    Don't attempt to run the lathe in reverse ! The parting tool should be upside down !

    This has the advantage that swarf tends to fall out of the cut and not jam the blade. I also use Temaxol or Trefolex on the blade as a cutting lubricant. Because both these products are pastes they stick to the blade and melt as the blade gets hot. I also use Diesel and WD40 on aluminium materials.
    Yeah I know to turn it upside down, for many years I have read about it, but never actually tried it as I haven't needed it.
    I'm the same Dave J that used to be around this forum when you joined. Just setting up shop again in my new house.
    Using Tapatalk

  14. #14
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    This is impressive. Might be what I need if I can find one the right size.
    I'd be looking at 2 of them, one for the mini lathe and one for the AL350 :
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E2h5eexVE_0

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by phaser View Post
    This is impressive. Might be what I need if I can find one the right size.
    I'd be looking at 2 of them, one for the mini lathe and one for the AL350 :
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E2h5eexVE_0
    That looks great, but he does have a rigid machine.
    Always wondered why the factory supplied carbide parting tips don't come sharpened with the right side higher, so the part comes off first nice and flat and the nib is left on the stock and removed after the part has left.
    I always sharpen my HSS this way.
    Using Tapatalk

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