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  1. #121
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
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    Sydney, NSW, Australia
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    That hss tool from H&F is going blunt quick unless its my fault cutting 2mm at a pass (4mm OD) uploading the videos now 2 of than i'll edit them on youtube

    So far i have 4 good parts 4 damaged parts where i messed up and a few pieces of unusable scraps those were the piece of alloy that filled the chuck jaws depth

    Im smashing out the accuracy pretty quickly this lathe is spot on one i machine to the mm than take the piece down in size from there very easy to estimate my cut depths

    My cuts are quick i think i am within .15mm i could make very finely cuts but that would assorb a lot more time for perfection
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #122
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
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    York, North Yorkshire UK
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    Quote Originally Posted by gazza2009au View Post

    I think i have it right that the micrometer is reading 28.14mm? Look how much the digital calipers are off
    I make that Mic reading 28.18 mm !
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  3. #123
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
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    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
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    59
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    6,542

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    John you are right. Photo 2 with the part is 28.18. Photo 3 without the part is 28.13.

    Michael

  4. #124
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
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    56
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    If your wanting accuracy, rough it out, then do a couple of finner cuts to finish it.
    If your tool is going blunt this is a good time between roughing and finishing to hone the tool to resharpened it and leave a better finish.
    Using Tapatalk

  5. #125
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
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    Sydney, NSW, Australia
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    I marked the job on both sides so i knew i was testing the same spots i tested using the SC or Bunnings caliper than the Hafco caliper and the Hare and Forbes micrometer

    I'll make this post than edit the measuring tool as 1,2,3 as i dont know which order the pics will come out

    Pic 1 is super cheap/bunnings meter
    Pic 2 is hafco meter or hare and forbes
    Pic 3 is hare and forbes micrometer 25-50mm
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  6. #126
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    Dec 2013
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    Close your verniers up, then put them up to the light and look for gaps. Sometimes the tips are sharpened to much and they leave a gap, giving a untrue reading.
    I have a so many digital calipers from 150mm to 300mm, one pair is like this and there just general purpose shop calipers, used to scribe, measure steel thickness etc.
    Using Tapatalk

  7. #127
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
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    Sydney, NSW, Australia
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    Here are the two videos one runs for 33mins the second goes for 15mins good thing about youtube u can fast forward, i was looking for a video edit to do a 3-4min time lapse video but companies wanted crazy money like adobe wanted a couple hundred bucks for there video editor

    https://youtu.be/hIIGg_cWPVE

    https://youtu.be/RdYp8_9uCw0

  8. #128
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
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    Good to put a face to a name, after 15 or more years on this forum I couldn't put a face to a name for most members.
    Your ahead of me, I've never made a video, just loads of pictures.

    I've got to hand it to you for dedication though, being in a garden shed with a small lathe with manual feeds. I couldn't wait to get rid of my Hercus lathe because it didn't have power cross slide.

    Seeing you turning that small crossslide handle seems a hassle, have a look on eBay for a larger one, it would make life easier for you and they are cheap. One should be able to be adapted as long as it clears the topslide etc.
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  9. #129
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    Aug 2009
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    Sydney, NSW, Australia
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    Dave lol i stopped using that tiny handle on the slide i mostly use the slightly bigger handle on the end of the machine the feed rate is triple to the smaller handle, after i adjusted the lathe the other night shes a bit on the tight side it was the only way i could get the lathe to be solid otherwise everything was loose and causing the tool to bite the job

    i checked those handles they are 60mm one on the top cross slide is 40mm

  10. #130
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
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    56
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    Quote Originally Posted by gazza2009au View Post
    Dave lol i stopped using that tiny handle on the slide i mostly use the slightly bigger handle on the end of the machine the feed rate is triple to the smaller handle, after i adjusted the lathe the other night shes a bit on the tight side it was the only way i could get the lathe to be solid otherwise everything was loose and causing the tool to bite the job

    i checked those handles they are 60mm one on the top cross slide is 40mm
    I'd look into bigger handwheels, maybe 100/125mm, there cheap and if the bore is to big you now have the skills to make a bush and slot it with a hacksaw and file to make it fit if need be.
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  11. #131
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
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    Hi Gazza, Guys,

    Having watched your video's, Two things, That lathe really needs to be fastened down to a secure base, that rocking I found quite alarming, also you need to better adjust the gibs on that cross slide. You should be able to wind that slide all the way across without it getting too tight in the middle. You might find that the gibb strip is slightly bent. Easy enough to make a new one if you have to.

    Also I set my top slide at a slight angle, about 3 degrees towards the centre line. This way you can dial in a tenth of a thou or a fortieth of a mm in your case quite accurately.

    Looks like you are getting a nice finish on that spacer ring.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  12. #132
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    melbourne australia
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    3,228

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    If you set your topslide to 6 degrees (5.75 to be exact) you will get a ratio of 10:1. That is, if you advance the topslide 0.1mm the DoC will increase by 0.01mm.
    Chris

  13. #133
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Canberra
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    Quote Originally Posted by gazza2009au View Post
    i was looking for a video edit to do a 3-4min time lapse video but companies wanted crazy money like adobe wanted a couple hundred bucks for there video editor
    Davinci Resolve is Australian-owned and free (for the non-studio version). Which is amazing for what is pro-grade editing software.

  14. #134
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Feb 2006
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    Perth
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    Quote Originally Posted by gazza2009au View Post
    I marked the job on both sides so i knew i was testing the same spots i tested using the SC or Bunnings caliper than the Hafco caliper and the Hare and Forbes micrometer
    One difference is you are using the sharper/narrower end edges of the callipers whereas the mic contacts have wider flat edges.
    Try using the flats on the callipers.

    Comparions between mics and callipers are best done with polished flat edge materials.
    Does you mic have a standard measuring rod in the box?
    Try measuring then with that.

    In case you missed it here is a semi quantitative comparison of a few mics and callipers.
    //metalworkforums.com/f65/t2023...rs#post1940341

  15. #135
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    Jun 2007
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    sydney ( st marys )
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    From my experience the more accurate measurement will come from the micrometer rather than the vernier.

    As I mentioned previously try and find something online that demonstrates how to use the micrometer and calipers correctly.

    Have you yet changed the speed of your lathe?

    In your video it sounded as if the larger drill you were using was vibrating, if that was the case it maybe caused by too higher speed of the spindle, drill not sharpened correctly, to slower feed rate on the drill.

    When you are facing or longitudinal turning (sliding) try and keep some form of continuity of the feed, starting,stopping repositioning of hands does not work well.

    In your video I also noticed your technique for using the Tailstock, it is incorrect,search again for how to use a lathe Tailstock.

    When you inserta drill chuck into the Tailstock have the Tailstock locked to the bed, insert the Morse taper section of the drill chuck in the Tailstock spindle opening and then push it towards the back of the Tailstock firmly, the taper of the chuck shank needs to lock with the taper in the spindle bore of the Tailstock, it should not be loose as depicted in your video.
    If you need the chuck key hole of your Tailstock chuck to be at 12 o'clock have it in this position when you insert it into the Tailstock, the other 2 holes in the body will be at about 4&8 o'clock, you should be able to easily get to them to tighten omething rather than the way you demonstrated in the video.

    You may also need to check the angles sharpened on your tool , it seems to be not cutting your bar stock correctly , this again could be due to your spindle speed.

    Once again do a search for cutting aluminium on the lathe, it may give you an idea of chip shape and also angles of tooling, hopefully it is made by someone with machining experience.

    Dont forget that most things that work for one person may not work for another unless using the same equipment,but it should hopefully steer you in the right direction.

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