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  1. #46
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    melbourne australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    As far as direction of machining is concerned you need to use a right hand tool to be able to cut when moving the saddle to the right.
    I think you might have it backwards John:

    Left Hand Cutting Tool and Right Hand Cutting Tool

    Sorry if I misunderstood you.
    Chris

  2. #47
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    Jun 2007
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    sydney ( st marys )
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    64
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    Quote Originally Posted by gazza2009au View Post
    Yeah i had turned the wheel spacer around so i could machin the little lip

    Where machining from right to left should i be using the small handle on the top slide or the handle on the end of the machine to the far right? Or does it even matter?
    In regards to the chuck jaws if the chuck and jaws are not already numbered engrave or stamp the numbers 123 on the jaw and also mark the chuck so you know where to put the jaws, number 1 will always be first and so on.When you insert the jaw firstly turn the chuck key or what ever method is used to get the start of the chuck scroll visible then back it off a touch insert chuck jaw and the turn the key to engage the jaw, you may need to apply a little pressure to the jaw to make sure the chuck scroll engages, then turn the key until the start of the scroll appears at position 2 and repeat procedure for 1 and then do the same for 3.

    In regards to which handle or part of the machine to use for longitudinal turning, that will be governed by how long the machined section needs to be,just be mindful that the carriage normally runs parallel to the bed/ spindle and the compound slide can be set at a angle to cut a taper, if you are going to use the compound slide for longitudinal turning you will need to make sure that it is parallel to the spindle, normally down with the use of a dial indicator.

  3. #48
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
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    Sydney, NSW, Australia
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    Thanks guys help and advice is much appreciated

    I needed to turn the job around because my cut off tool can only cut around 8 to 9mm i needed to cut deep enough thru the 36mm bar to cut it off which was not going to work so i turned the piece around

    EDIT: i measured my tooling and it was 6mm i thought it was 8mm, is this a good cut off tool? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/6mm-Self...e/392246843990 i only need 4 pieces to do all the work i want, 1 is to machine the face and the side (tool came with lathe), another is a drill bit to drill a 10mm hole (need to purchase a drill bit set), the boring tool for the hole enlargement (came with lathe works brilliant but emits a high pitch squeal), Cut off tool (yet to buy link above)

  4. #49
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

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    Quote Originally Posted by jack620 View Post
    I think you might have it backwards John:

    Left Hand Cutting Tool and Right Hand Cutting Tool

    Sorry if I misunderstood you.
    Good morning Chris, you are right My wife always says I don't know my left from my right.
    I think its a case of thinking one thing and writing another.

    My apologies for the error, Sorry.
    Last edited by BaronJ; 12th Apr 2019 at 06:45 PM. Reason: I've corrected the error ! Thanks Chris.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  5. #50
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
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    Quote Originally Posted by gazza2009au View Post
    Thanks guys help and advice is much appreciated

    EDIT: i measured my tooling and it was 6mm i thought it was 8mm, is this a good cut off tool? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/6mm-Self...e/392246843990 i
    It is as good as any other ! As long as it will fit into your tool holder it should be OK.

    only need 4 pieces to do all the work i want, 1 is to machine the face and the side (tool came with lathe), another is a drill bit to drill a 10mm hole (need to purchase a drill bit set), the boring tool for the hole enlargement (came with lathe works brilliant but emits a high pitch squeal), Cut off tool (yet to buy link above)
    I would suggest that you get some HSS tool blanks and learn how to grind your own tools ! The boring tool you describe sounds like it could be blunt, running too fast, set at the wrong hight, set at the wrong angle or all four. The reason for the squeal is because the tool is chattering, ie vibrating against the work piece surface. If you look at it you will see chatter marks.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  6. #51
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    Aug 2009
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    Sydney, NSW, Australia
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    Thanks Baron i just tried looking up the tool names not easy to find in google pictures, looks like i was using a inside threading tool as a boring tool which they both look very similar just the boring tool has a square on the cutting tip the and threading tool is pointed my bad but it still worked great

    i think i may need to buy a new set of tools in a case one of each and start fresh take pictures of each tip so i know what they look like and how to resharpen them

    the tools that came with my lathe were half a packet of the square tools 6x6mm HHS and some odd round tooling than needs shimming kind of looks like old taps cut down and made into lathe tools

  7. #52
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    It is as good as any other ! As long as it will fit into your tool holder it should be OK.



    I would suggest that you get some HSS tool blanks and learn how to grind your own tools ! The boring tool you describe sounds like it could be blunt, running too fast, set at the wrong hight, set at the wrong angle or all four. The reason for the squeal is because the tool is chattering, ie vibrating against the work piece surface. If you look at it you will see chatter marks.
    Totally agree about using HSS, I have a 300x900mm lathe and still use it, especially on aluminum and gummy mild steel. On both I can get great finishes

    For you size lathe I would highly recommend it, as it needs less HP as well because it's razor sharp after honing.
    I find a cheap eye glass works great to see you cutting edge sharpening.
    Using Tapatalk

  8. #53
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    Aug 2009
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    Sydney, NSW, Australia
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    Ok i will buy the hhs bars i need some practice on the shaping and sharpening here is my attempt it worked for a bit than went blunt

    I can confirm i was boring using the threading tool rookie mistake
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #54
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    Dec 2013
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    If they are going blunt really quickly you, sounds like your spindle speed is to fast. Slow it down, it's not like carbide.
    Also some of the Chinese HSS is crap, try to buy good Australian, British, or USA HSS though eBay. It really is that much better.
    HSS at lower rpm and slow feed for finishing will leave a nice surface finish.
    You can hog at a higher feed rate.
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  10. #55
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    Dec 2013
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    Just to add, a normal fine bench grinding wheel will do, but use a oil stone to hone the edge. A cheap oil stone will do, but use something to magnify it to see your honing taking away the grinder marks making it nice and smooth razor edge.
    The more you do it the easier it gets and most times the tool only needs a hone rather than a grind to resharpened it.

    A little radius helps with a a nice finish, do that with the stone rolling it around the edge to suit your tool.

    .
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  11. #56
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    Aug 2009
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    Sydney, NSW, Australia
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    Is it ok to sharpen both ends of a tool to minimise cost?

    I have been sharpening using a angle grinder but i was just watching a video on youtube and the guy was using a bench grinder i will have to pick up a bench gronder tomorrow they are cheap at bunnings

    While watching youtube videos one person said the parting tool stick out should be no more than the diameter of the tool in my case that will be 6mm i cant cut anything with 6mm i need 15mm stick out there abouts

  12. #57
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    Dec 2013
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    Quote Originally Posted by gazza2009au View Post
    Is it ok to sharpen both ends of a tool to minimise cost?

    I have been sharpening using a angle grinder but i was just watching a video on youtube and the guy was using a bench grinder i will have to pick up a bench gronder tomorrow they are cheap at bunnings

    While watching youtube videos one person said the parting tool stick out should be no more than the diameter of the tool in my case that will be 6mm i cant cut anything with 6mm i need 15mm stick out there abouts
    Supercheap have little bench grinders on special at the moment, $30 I think they where which I thought was cheap when I seen them.

    Yes sharpen both ends is no problems, most of mine are, with me though I have tool holders for each tool, so turning them around means resetting tool height.
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  13. #58
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    Aug 2009
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    Sydney, NSW, Australia
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    For the hss tool can u cut and sharpen a round hss 6mm drill bit from bunnings the Sutton brand? I am really egar to get machining and the ebay sellers are quoting 12 days shipping from SA to Sydney

    I seen that Dave super cheap has them for $30 bunnings $35

  14. #59
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    With the parting tool, buy a HSS parting tool holders and blade, they are deeper than your square HSS.
    You may have to modify or get someone to weld a piece of 6 mm on the side so mount it to your lathe toolpost.
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  15. #60
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    These days I wouldn't use those drill bits, but could work depending on how far up they are HSS. Most are made in China these days.
    Be patient, look on eBay for new/used/okd stock quality HSS if you can . Otherwise try to buy Chinese HSS with cobalt, it will be better.
    You will still have a wait time. Aussie tools may have some in Australia.
    I was very lucky with having a market close to me with Indian sellers selling all lathe tooling cheap, including HSS bits which where pretty good. Doesn't compare with the Australian/US/ British stuff from many years ago that I have.
    Using Tapatalk

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