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  1. #136
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    Aug 2009
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    Few replies here guys i just read all the comments and thank u all for the advice

    Dave i will look into the bigger hand wheels these ones are pretty tiny and considering the machine is tight it doesnt make for a good set up lathe its my learning curve

    Baron yeah i hear you the gibs are to tight that is why the lathe is moving i will work on it to try find that smooth spot but the lathe having 6 gib screws its hard to get each one set up without the top slide hand turning by its self when im machining

    Rusty thanks i will check that program out when i go on the laptop its hard to find one because they all say free trial but they want your credit card details

    Bob i thought u had to use the tip of the calipers hence why its ground down for a more accurite reading? Yeah the micrometers came with the little included bar it wasnt untill someone else mentioned the bar i had no clue what it was for

    Pipe i havent changed the speed yet the booklet says any aluminium jobs under 40mm diameter can be done at 2000rpm thats the max speed of the lathe, funny u mentioned the bigger drill bit i had a even bigger drill bit in there which would drill about 8mm deep than stop drilling once i removed the drill bit it had all aluminium stuck to the cutting tip is this a speed problem? I thought it may have just been the type of drill bit
    The stop starting on the handles is my error im still learning how to set up the machine so the gib screws on the top slide are tight
    The tail stock is weird it doesnt lock in on this lathe untill u wind the handle a few turns there is no alignment inside the hole for the flat end to lock in only the taper on the shaft locks it in
    Also the tool for facing and cutting right to left was blunt it was kind of smearing the aluminium i will have to be on top of all my tools and sharpen before each job

  2. #137
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    Aug 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by jack620 View Post
    If you set your topslide to 6 degrees (5.75 to be exact) you will get a ratio of 10:1. That is, if you advance the topslide 0.1mm the DoC will increase by 0.01mm.
    Ahh i just caught on i had no clue as to what u were meaning Jack but i understand now its for accuracy i can get my movements down to 00.10 i think is my smallest but i dont want to complicate it if i over cut a job i need to start again so i think i would rather be over by 00.10mm than under cutting since it takes around 1 hour for each wheel spacer

  3. #138
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
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    59
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    Quote Originally Posted by gazza2009au View Post
    ... the booklet says any aluminium jobs under 40mm diameter can be done at 2000rpm
    The formula that I use is
    Speed (rpm)= 300 x cutting speed (metres per minute)/ diameter (mm)

    Cutting speed for Al is typically around 90 metres per minute, so 2000rpm is suitable for stuff 13mm diameter and smaller. This is a maximum speed and based on industrial data. It assumes that everything is going your way - rigid machine, quality material, coolant, properly shaped tools and so on. In reality with a smaller lathe like that I would expect that the speed would be reduced a fair bit before you got to a sweet spot.

    Michael

  4. #139
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    Aug 2009
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    Sydney, NSW, Australia
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    I looked at the gearing but cant figure it out there are room for 4 belt movements i just dont know which ones to use so i have been using the setting it came with

  5. #140
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    Sep 2012
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    York, North Yorkshire UK
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    Hi Gazza,

    If you look at a drill press there is often a chart showing belt positions and spindle speed ! Your lathe is no different. Large driving pulley to small spindle pulley equals higher spindle speed. Your lathe has four sets of pulleys try the belt on one of the middle pair.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  6. #141
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    Aug 2009
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    Sydney, NSW, Australia
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    Heres a picture i can't make sence of the owners manual diagram
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #142
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    Sep 2012
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    York, North Yorkshire UK
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    Hi Gazza,

    Move the belt from the motor large pulley to the small one. Keep it in line with the larger pulley above it.

    Follow the red line.

    20190418_183337.jpg
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  8. #143
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    Thanks Baron i will check it tomorrow, is there any way to quieten a lathe? I'm out in a garden shed and it echo's the sound so i am unable to do any machining at night

  9. #144
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    Sep 2012
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    York, North Yorkshire UK
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    Hi Gazza,

    Well slowing it down will help, but you really need a rigid bench to fasten the lathe to. It will also help with the finish and accuracy of the work. For what its worth I tend to run my lathe between 400 and 1000 rpm depending upon what material I'm machining.

    You might have seen the pictures in my "Brooks Grinder" post in "Projects". Those tiny pins, the ones that I single pointed were done at 600 rpm. When I realised that the material was flexing I went on to using a die. This was done at around 80 rpm with the die held by hand using a round die holder.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  10. #145
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    Jun 2010
    Location
    Canberra
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    1,322

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    Quote Originally Posted by gazza2009au View Post
    Rusty thanks i will check that program out when i go on the laptop its hard to find one because they all say free trial but they want your credit card details
    Yeah, none of that trial period, credit card crap with Davinci Resolve, but it is a professional editing tool that includes a colour-correcting component which all together can seem a bit overwhelming, but there's plenty of tutorials on the net if you just want to trim/cut video and speed segments up.

  11. #146
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    Aug 2009
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    I must be well and truely over the speed limit than this lathe sounds like a jet firing up has the click noise and the rrrrrRRRRR just like in a industral factory with a big 3 phase electric motor firing up

    I just checked my h&f caliper it had a tiny rock in the measuring section i wiped it clean than held it up to the light it has a gap that i would say is very microscopic i can see light but its very tight

    I checked the micrometers with there included measuring bars bot there on the plus side of 00.005 i think thats right but both were over the 25mm and 50mm line for 25-50mm and 50-75mm micrometers

  12. #147
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    Quote Originally Posted by RustyArc View Post
    Yeah, none of that trial period, credit card crap with Davinci Resolve, but it is a professional editing tool that includes a colour-correcting component which all together can seem a bit overwhelming, but there's plenty of tutorials on the net if you just want to trim/cut video and speed segments up.
    I sped up my video from 100% to 250% it turned a some what long dull video into a really nice 10min video its actually relaxing to watch the speed up done it wonders, the edit took around 3 hours to change the speed but it was a 4gb 30mins video the second video was 1.6gb 12mins now the video is total 1.6gb and i think 16mins long i will take down the other videos shortly and upload the fast forward ones

  13. #148
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    Aug 2009
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    Almost everything is closed today i'm going to bunnings seeing as my tooling wont be here untill the end of the week i'm going to improvise

    Since it is so hard to find a local shop with carbon steel or hss i took a look at what i can hack from bunnings to make a lathe boring tool that is over 100mm about 40mm of that sits in the tool holder so it should just work i think

    Found these two on bunnings one is hss the other is carbon steel im going to cut the spade off and weld on the hss h&f tool as a tip

    https://www.bunnings.com.au/craftrig...t-set_p6360080

    https://www.bunnings.com.au/craftrig...t-set_p0049238

  14. #149
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    Aug 2008
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    Adelaide
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    68
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    Quote Originally Posted by gazza2009au View Post
    Almost everything is closed today i'm going to bunnings seeing as my tooling wont be here untill the end of the week i'm going to improvise

    Since it is so hard to find a local shop with carbon steel or hss i took a look at what i can hack from bunnings to make a lathe boring tool that is over 100mm about 40mm of that sits in the tool holder so it should just work i think

    Found these two on bunnings one is hss the other is carbon steel im going to cut the spade off and weld on the hss h&f tool as a tip

    https://www.bunnings.com.au/craftrig...t-set_p6360080

    https://www.bunnings.com.au/craftrig...t-set_p0049238

    If you are going to Bunnings, why not use this or something similar instead?
    https://www.bunnings.com.au/australi...e-bar_p0917689

    it's an expensive way of buying steel but it would be easier than butchering drills made of unknownium.

  15. #150
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gavin Newman View Post
    If you are going to Bunnings, why not use this or something similar instead?
    https://www.bunnings.com.au/australi...e-bar_p0917689

    it's an expensive way of buying steel but it would be easier than butchering drills made of unknownium.
    I thought about that but doesn't the tool need to be hss so it doesn't bend or flex?

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