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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    589

    Default Parkanson Power Hacksaw

    I have recently purchased a Parkanson power hacksaw and need to find some information for it. It currently does not move and this is possibly due to the rust built up on it from not being used. I want to be able to pull it all apart and rebuild/recondition but would like to find a service manual or repair manual for it as I have no experience with these.

    Model 131272
    Serial 2127

    It has a date tag on it stamped 3/3/27 so it appears to be an oldie!

    DSCN4087.JPG

    At this time I do not really understand how these work. I cannot lift up the blade which may be due to rust or it may be due to there being hydraulics that require the motor to be running. I can see a coolant pump connected to the main motor.

    Any help would be appreciated.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,651

    Default



    Steve

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,651

    Default

    I've been down the same path already.

    1. The main pivot shaft will most likely be rusted into the bore on the base. Mine had a couple of holes for oiling the shaft but it had been sitting out in the weather so they had filled up with water and rusted.
    Fill those holes with your favorite rust-breaking penetrant. I use mostly 50/50 ATF and Acetone mix.
    The pivot shaft is a straight piece of round bar. Its locked into the main arm (the bit that carries the moving saw frame) with a couple of grub screws. You need to get those out so you can start to work the shaft from side to side to help break the rust.

    2. The hydraulic jack part that lifts the blade on the backstroke may be siezed in its bore. Remove the pivot pin that attaches it to the main arm and see if you can get any movement out of the piston rod up-down. If not, fill it up with penetrant....

    3. The shafts might be seized. remove the belts and investigate. On mine they were OK.

    4. The motor pulley on mine was quite corroded

    5. the pump is pretty simple. Remove it, strip/clean and reassemble. If you need a new drive belt for it I found the best thing was the round red poly belt with the barbed joiner as I couldn't find a short belt to suit. It works well , there's very little load on the pump.

    6. I replaced the bearings in the main conrod between the pulley and the saw frame.

    The main pivot will lift up by hand once everything is working properly. The valve on the hydraulic lifter is there to control downfeed rate.
    Open the valve more and the arm drops down faster - same as a hydraulic jack. On the forward stroke the jack pump piston pushes fluid in to lift the ram up and lift the blade so it doesn't drag.
    It then retracts again to allow the ram to drop and thereby allows the blade to drop back to the cut level.
    There's no mechanism to pump the arm back up to an upper stop position once the cut has finished. If the microswitch on the main arm is adjusted properly the cut will finish and the microswitch will turn the motor off. You then need to lift the arm back up again by hand, and there's a notched stay that will hold it up (needs releasing for the next cut).

    They cut on the back stroke, so the teeth face the arm pivot.
    Mine seems to run at a faster rate than I recall from ones I've used in a previous life. Not convinced the motor or gearing hasn't been messed with.....

    That's all I can think of for now. Sing out if you need more info. Unfortunately I don't have a manual either, but they are pretty simple.

    PS. I fitted grease nipples into the oil holes and use grease. Might not be the best thing to do, but works for me.

    Steve

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
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    Default

    Just remembered I uploaded this dodgy video of it running:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tHEMVzLvJjM

    Steve

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    589

    Default

    Awesome Steve. That gives me a great understanding of the machine! Thank you. If there is a microswitch to turn off the motor then mine may not be starting as the blade is in the down position. I will oil as described and see if I can lift the blade then retest.

    I can feel a full resto coming........

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    33

    Default Another Parkanson video

    For interest, there is another video of a Parkanson running, posted some time ago by one of our forum members:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSV2...&index=86&t=0s

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    589

    Default

    Oiled her up and she runs! I think I will still do a resto as there is pretty much no paint left.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,651

    Default

    Good stuff!!

    What is the stroke speed like?
    I'm picking it's slower than mine and more likely the same as the other video posted above.

    Steve

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    589

    Default

    Yes the stroke is more like the other video ie slower than yours.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    589

    Default

    Steve (and others),

    I took a brave pill and started the strip down. Once I had the top slide off the machine suddenly looks much simpler. However, I am having trouble getting the main power shaft apart as I cannot work out what order to strip things down. I also cannot work out how I am supposed to get the output power wheel (the one with the conrod that pushes the saw) off. It is keyed onto the main power shaft but is also threaded! That one has got me.

    I think the output wheel must come off first then the shaft is most likely driven out one of the sides but that is a guestimate.

    I think the pics below show clearly what I am looking at. Can anybody assist please??

    20190407_122247.jpg20190407_122156.jpg

    EDIT: another hour of trying and no luck. I originally thought the nut on the output pulley was part of the pulley but looking more closely the edge is just too squared off to be cast. I will go buy a 38mm/1 1/2" impact socket and give that a go.......
    Last edited by Mk1_Oz; 7th Apr 2019 at 03:18 PM. Reason: tried more..

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,438

    Default

    Hi Mk1_Oz,

    Since there is a key in the pulley that nut should be holding the pulley onto the shaft.

    Watching with interest
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    589

    Default

    38mm socket bought and nut off. It all just fell apart from there. Heading out to take apart the hydraulic section then the motor and pump underneath.

    What paint is recommended? I don't want 2 part paint and would rather brush on although I have spray equipment if I need to spray. Some type of enamal? Brands? Want something that will last.

    Will try to get some pics up.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    505

    Default

    I find the epoxy enamel (1 pot) paints satisfactory. There are several brands including Wattyl (Killrust), White Knight (Rustguard), Galmet (Rust Paint) and Dulux (Metalshield). Advantages: no primer is needed on bare iron (tho' you would need etch primer on aluminium or zinc, and high build primer if you really want to sand it down smooth as. They seem to have good durability, and come the usual tin or aerosol packs. The only drawback (from my POV) is that they are not the cheapest, and are slow to dry - typically 16hours for recoat and 24 hours to dry more completely.

    Cheers,
    Bill

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
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    2,651

    Default

    I agree with Bill. I'm a fan of the hammered look finishes, but depends what sort of look you're after.
    The ugly paint scheme on mine was the result of painting it one colour and thinking "crap - thats really ugly". I can't recall if it was the blue or the charcoal I painted with first, but it was definitely "too <whatever the colour was>".

    I got caught out buying some White Knight RustGuard Quick Dry "Advanced Enamel" by mistake. Its an acrylic enamel - I don't like using it. Doesn't flow nicely and finish is poor.
    The normal RustGuard Epoxy Enamel is good though - just watch which one you are actually buying as the label on the advanced enamel also says RustGuard and is VERY similar.

    Steve

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,438

    Default

    Hi Guys,

    For what little painting I've done, water based acrylic paint has been fine ! YMMV.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

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