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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Townsville, Tropical Nth Qld.
    Posts
    225

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mk1_Oz View Post
    I have recently purchased a Parkanson power hacksaw and need to find some information for it. It currently does not move and this is possibly due to the rust built up on it from not being used. I want to be able to pull it all apart and rebuild/recondition but would like to find a service manual or repair manual for it as I have no experience with these.

    Model 131272
    Serial 2127

    It has a date tag on it stamped 3/3/27 so it appears to be an oldie!

    Any help would be appreciated.
    I am guessing that date is incorrect. Mine is a 1947 model and it's totally cast iron. Yours looks like folded and welded steel. Did they have electric welders in Melbourne in 1927?.
    Rgds,
    Crocy.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    589

    Default

    yes the base on mine is sheet steel not cast. Hmmm the date tag seems strange then but it's there!

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
    Age
    59
    Posts
    6,540

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    I've seen tags like that before and they are probably more an asset tag - they just look like a date
    for example that could be for building 3, workshop 3, machine 27 (3/3/27) or something like that

    Michael

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Charlestown NSW
    Age
    65
    Posts
    1,669

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    I reckon your saw is closer to 1990 then 1927. One of the workshops I worked in in around 1993 had one that looked almost identical to yours except the paint was in far better condition. It was only a couple of years old at that point. Factory paint was a mid blue.
    It also had an automatic arm lift setup on it. From memory there was a knob for controlling down feed speed, plus a lever that you pushed to start the feed. When that lever was engaged there was a shaft that was parallel to the blade and stuck out the bottom of the valve block facing the back of the machine. When the cut was finished and the blade/arm assembly dropped all the way to the bottom, the bottom of the blade frame, at the back, hit the end of the shaft, pushing it back in which then caused the hydraulics to lift the blade/arm back to the top. There was a short lever attached to the blade frame at the pivot which pushed a limit switch when the frame was all the way up, cutting the motor out. The trick was to remember to flick the blade frame support lever back into place once the cut had started. That way when the frame came back up to the top and the motor cut out, as the hydraulic lift cylinder leaked past, the frame would come to rest on the support lever.
    peter

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    589

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    I have noticed the bolts seem to all be metric which goes against a 1927 date! The bottom of the coolant tank seemed to have a hundred year's worth of baked in mud and crust though!!!

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,651

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    Mine coolant tank was about half full height wise with crud too.

    Wonder how much would be involved in adding that auto-up function - hmmmmm.

    Steve

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Townsville, Tropical Nth Qld.
    Posts
    225

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    Quote Originally Posted by OxxAndBert View Post
    Mine coolant tank was about half full height wise with crud too.

    Wonder how much would be involved in adding that auto-up function - hmmmmm.

    Steve
    Not sure if the tank on your newer models is the same as mine, but I made a fine mesh strainer to sit on top of the tank below the drainage hole and it catches all the metal particles. Takes months to fill up before needing to be emptied.
    Rgds,
    Crocy.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,651

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    The tank on mine is just a cavity formed by welding a plate on an angle between the front and top plates, and runs the full width across the front so welded to the side plates too.
    The inlet hole in the top is just a ~15mm hole in the plate. No access under that hole without removing the bolted + sealed plate on the front.
    Probably makes more sense if you look at the photo I posted earlier.

    Probably the way to go for these ones would be to enlarge the hole in the top and make a drop in strainer. Apart from the crap accumulation, it would also stop things like the 10mm allen key I found in mine when I cleaned it out.

    Steve

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    589

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    Steve, do you have any pics or information on the hydraulic bits? I have the whole hydraulic assembly off the machine and probably should pull it all apart for a clean (the oil was a putrid milky latte colour). Would like to understand what is inside before I pull it apart!!

    As far as strainers go, some fine mesh made into a cylinder with a bottom piece brazed/soldered on and slipped down the drain holes should work. Just drop in and pull out as required. Won't stop dirt though as not fine enough.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
    Age
    59
    Posts
    6,540

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    The primary reason for filters in hydraulic systems is so that dirt/ muck does not get caught in valves and stop them closing.
    With something like a hacksaw, neither safety critical or dependent on precision spool valves, I think you would be pretty safe with a coarse filter...

    Michael

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,651

    Default Parkanson Power Hacksaw

    Sorry no photos of the hydraulic side of mine.
    From memory......
    The pump is just a piston with an oring on it.
    The cylinder has a cup shaped seal on the bottom end of the shaft - retained by a bolt and washer.
    The control valve is a simple needle valve.
    My memory gets a bit sketchy from there but pretty sure there was some form of check valve with ball and spring that allowed oil to be sucked up from the reservoir by the ram piston being lifted when the arm is raised manually.
    No check valves on the pump as it just pushes a bit of fluid into the ram then lets it back out again. The control valve lets fluid out of the system back into the reservoir so the ram slowly comes down as well as bobbing up and down on each stroke from the pump action.

    Hope that makes sense!!

    Steve

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Townsville, Tropical Nth Qld.
    Posts
    225

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    My old machine was working today so I thought I would show some of my rough as, spacers to maximize blade usage. 1st bit is a gap spacer out of an old lathe from the scrap yard and a few bits of pine framing. That's 4x1 or 100mmX 25mm flat bar being cut.
    Rgds,
    Crocy.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Dandenong
    Posts
    13

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mk1_Oz View Post
    38mm socket bought and nut off. It all just fell apart from there. Heading out to take apart the hydraulic section then the motor and pump underneath.

    What paint is recommended? I don't want 2 part paint and would rather brush on although I have spray equipment if I need to spray. Some type of enamal? Brands? Want something that will last.

    Will try to get some pics up.
    We are going for hammertone blue, don't know how durable it is though.

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    589

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    I keep meaning to get the photos of the rebuild off my phone to post. Will try tomorrow.

    So far it is all stripped and de-rusted/de-painted. Started with the repaint using White Knight Epoxy Enamel in a lightish grey colour. I used some POR-15 in the coolant tank and on the saw top where the coolant floods as added protection. Will buy new bearings for the conrod tomorrow.

    I stripped down the hydraulics this afternoon as I decided the dirt and mayonaise oil would not have been kind. The cylinder is quite scored so I will need to see if I need to get it honed or reground and then make a new piston. Hopefully not. I was very surprised there are no seals on the main piston, just a tight fit. Suppose there is not a massive amount of system pressure to warrant one.

    The coolant pump is seized so that hopefully comes apart tomorrow.....

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
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    2,651

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    Interesting that yours doesn't have a seal on the main piston.
    Mine definitely has one.
    Nothing to say that mine is original though, and it did come from a workshop that did a bit of hydraulic work so possibly had been modified at some point.

    Actually - that might explain the purpose of the return drain hole in the top of the cylinder casting if there was expected to be some bypass of fluid past the piston



    Steve

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