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Thread: Parkanson Power Hacksaw
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9th Apr 2019, 12:12 AM #16Senior Member
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9th Apr 2019, 07:35 PM #17Golden Member
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yes the base on mine is sheet steel not cast. Hmmm the date tag seems strange then but it's there!
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9th Apr 2019, 08:54 PM #18Philomath in training
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I've seen tags like that before and they are probably more an asset tag - they just look like a date
for example that could be for building 3, workshop 3, machine 27 (3/3/27) or something like that
Michael
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9th Apr 2019, 11:24 PM #19Most Valued Member
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I reckon your saw is closer to 1990 then 1927. One of the workshops I worked in in around 1993 had one that looked almost identical to yours except the paint was in far better condition. It was only a couple of years old at that point. Factory paint was a mid blue.
It also had an automatic arm lift setup on it. From memory there was a knob for controlling down feed speed, plus a lever that you pushed to start the feed. When that lever was engaged there was a shaft that was parallel to the blade and stuck out the bottom of the valve block facing the back of the machine. When the cut was finished and the blade/arm assembly dropped all the way to the bottom, the bottom of the blade frame, at the back, hit the end of the shaft, pushing it back in which then caused the hydraulics to lift the blade/arm back to the top. There was a short lever attached to the blade frame at the pivot which pushed a limit switch when the frame was all the way up, cutting the motor out. The trick was to remember to flick the blade frame support lever back into place once the cut had started. That way when the frame came back up to the top and the motor cut out, as the hydraulic lift cylinder leaked past, the frame would come to rest on the support lever.
peter
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10th Apr 2019, 12:36 PM #20Golden Member
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I have noticed the bolts seem to all be metric which goes against a 1927 date! The bottom of the coolant tank seemed to have a hundred year's worth of baked in mud and crust though!!!
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10th Apr 2019, 01:45 PM #21Most Valued Member
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Mine coolant tank was about half full height wise with crud too.
Wonder how much would be involved in adding that auto-up function - hmmmmm.
Steve
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10th Apr 2019, 05:42 PM #22Senior Member
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10th Apr 2019, 06:39 PM #23Most Valued Member
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The tank on mine is just a cavity formed by welding a plate on an angle between the front and top plates, and runs the full width across the front so welded to the side plates too.
The inlet hole in the top is just a ~15mm hole in the plate. No access under that hole without removing the bolted + sealed plate on the front.
Probably makes more sense if you look at the photo I posted earlier.
Probably the way to go for these ones would be to enlarge the hole in the top and make a drop in strainer. Apart from the crap accumulation, it would also stop things like the 10mm allen key I found in mine when I cleaned it out.
Steve
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10th Apr 2019, 09:27 PM #24Golden Member
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Steve, do you have any pics or information on the hydraulic bits? I have the whole hydraulic assembly off the machine and probably should pull it all apart for a clean (the oil was a putrid milky latte colour). Would like to understand what is inside before I pull it apart!!
As far as strainers go, some fine mesh made into a cylinder with a bottom piece brazed/soldered on and slipped down the drain holes should work. Just drop in and pull out as required. Won't stop dirt though as not fine enough.
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10th Apr 2019, 09:33 PM #25Philomath in training
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The primary reason for filters in hydraulic systems is so that dirt/ muck does not get caught in valves and stop them closing.
With something like a hacksaw, neither safety critical or dependent on precision spool valves, I think you would be pretty safe with a coarse filter...
Michael
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11th Apr 2019, 11:54 PM #26Most Valued Member
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Parkanson Power Hacksaw
Sorry no photos of the hydraulic side of mine.
From memory......
The pump is just a piston with an oring on it.
The cylinder has a cup shaped seal on the bottom end of the shaft - retained by a bolt and washer.
The control valve is a simple needle valve.
My memory gets a bit sketchy from there but pretty sure there was some form of check valve with ball and spring that allowed oil to be sucked up from the reservoir by the ram piston being lifted when the arm is raised manually.
No check valves on the pump as it just pushes a bit of fluid into the ram then lets it back out again. The control valve lets fluid out of the system back into the reservoir so the ram slowly comes down as well as bobbing up and down on each stroke from the pump action.
Hope that makes sense!!
Steve
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12th Apr 2019, 04:35 PM #27Senior Member
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My old machine was working today so I thought I would show some of my rough as, spacers to maximize blade usage. 1st bit is a gap spacer out of an old lathe from the scrap yard and a few bits of pine framing. That's 4x1 or 100mmX 25mm flat bar being cut.
Rgds,
Crocy.
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16th Apr 2019, 01:56 PM #28Novice
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16th Apr 2019, 09:28 PM #29Golden Member
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I keep meaning to get the photos of the rebuild off my phone to post. Will try tomorrow.
So far it is all stripped and de-rusted/de-painted. Started with the repaint using White Knight Epoxy Enamel in a lightish grey colour. I used some POR-15 in the coolant tank and on the saw top where the coolant floods as added protection. Will buy new bearings for the conrod tomorrow.
I stripped down the hydraulics this afternoon as I decided the dirt and mayonaise oil would not have been kind. The cylinder is quite scored so I will need to see if I need to get it honed or reground and then make a new piston. Hopefully not. I was very surprised there are no seals on the main piston, just a tight fit. Suppose there is not a massive amount of system pressure to warrant one.
The coolant pump is seized so that hopefully comes apart tomorrow.....
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16th Apr 2019, 10:15 PM #30Most Valued Member
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Interesting that yours doesn't have a seal on the main piston.
Mine definitely has one.
Nothing to say that mine is original though, and it did come from a workshop that did a bit of hydraulic work so possibly had been modified at some point.
Actually - that might explain the purpose of the return drain hole in the top of the cylinder casting if there was expected to be some bypass of fluid past the piston
Steve
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