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  1. #1
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    Default Lathe Tooling recommendation

    As a newbie...I was wondering what brands of tooling...chucks etc should I be looking at.. do I start out with eBay stuff or would that be just throwing my cash down the drain. The two things that I am looking at would be a drill chuck for the tail stock and following that a quick change tool post... my lathe is a 10” swing Maximat mentor 10.
    guidance appriciated

  2. #2
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    Default //metalworkforums.com/f303/t202306-norman-toolpost?highlight=Norman+Toolpost

    Hi Gaza,

    Re a tool post, I made a Norman Toolpost and highly recommend it !

    //metalworkforums.com/f303/t202...orman+Toolpost

    Just modify the dimensions to suit your lathe. If you want more info just shout...
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  3. #3
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    Default

    What type of spindle nose does your lathe have? If its a D type you are best looking for chucks that have the backplate integral to save on overhang. If its just threaded then you'll be making them. I am an advocate of buy once cry once, but with a limited budget and long list most of the import stuff is okay. Do you have some dial indicators and micrometers? It really helps to be able to test the tooling you buy.

  4. #4
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Hi Gaza,

    Re a tool post, I made a Norman Toolpost and highly recommend it !

    //metalworkforums.com/f303/t202...orman+Toolpost

    Just modify the dimensions to suit your lathe. If you want more info just shout...
    Thanks Baron.... I think this may be beyond what I am able to do just now..... Nice work by the way.

  5. #5
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by caskwarrior View Post
    What type of spindle nose does your lathe have? If its a D type you are best looking for chucks that have the backplate integral to save on overhang. If its just threaded then you'll be making them. I am an advocate of buy once cry once, but with a limited budget and long list most of the import stuff is okay. Do you have some dial indicators and micrometers? It really helps to be able to test the tooling you buy.
    According to the Manual that Bill sent me....The Maximat has a has an EM39 DIN 800 with a MT3... The tail Stock is MT2..... It came with a 3 Jaw and 4 Jaw chuck and a Face plate. The first purchase will be a Drill chuck for the tail stock... Not sure if I should go key-less or not and if some brands are better than others. The Quick change Tool post I am thinking, and please correct me if this isn't the way to go, is the dove tail ones like this
    QCTP251-XXXSet.jpg
    If I have read everything correctly the AXA size would be the right one for a 10" lathe
    Gaza

  6. #6
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Gaza58 View Post
    As a newbie...I was wondering what brands of tooling...chucks etc should I be looking at.. do I start out with eBay stuff or would that be just throwing my cash down the drain. The two things that I am looking at would be a drill chuck for the tail stock and following that a quick change tool post... my lathe is a 10” swing Maximat mentor 10.
    guidance appriciated
    I've got a lot of eBay stuff, it's been fine.

    Agree about the AXA size QCTP, I can't use tooling with bigger than 12mm shanks in my Maximat 11, suspect you'll be similarly limited. I'd buy CCMT tipped tooling in LH, RH and a set of CCMT boring bars and see what else you need as you progress. I'm waiting on delivery of a TCT threading boring bar ATM but that's just because I hate grinding teeny tiny threading tips in HSS to go inside miserably small holes. I can do it, I just prefer not to these days.

    The genuine Emco chucks are very nice pieces of equipment and well worth treating carefully to keep them that way.

    PDW

  7. #7
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Gaza58 View Post
    The first purchase will be a Drill chuck for the tail stock... Not sure if I should go key-less or not ..
    Go keyless. When you do a job with a lot of bit changes a keyed chuck gets old really quickly.
    Chris

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by jack620 View Post
    Go keyless. When you do a job with a lot of bit changes a keyed chuck gets old really quickly.
    Are there better keyless chucks to look for. They seem to vary in price quite a bit on fleebay...I assume Jacobs style is the yay to go

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gaza58 View Post
    Are there better keyless chucks to look for. They seem to vary in price quite a bit on fleebay...I assume Jacobs style is the yay to go
    Rohm is good (unless they've outsourced them) - very nicely made German chucks. I've 3 of them.

    Having said that the drill chuck I use most on my Chipmaster is a genuine Jacobs 1/2" keyed drill chuck.It holds really well and is a nice size. I agree with the comment about time/annoyance for swapping drill bits but don't care, it's just right for me.

    Don't get too big a chuck, you've a relatively feeble 2MT tailstock spindle. 1/2" max capacity is plenty. I use a 3/8" one by default on my Emco (but I do have quite a few taper shank drills).

    PDW

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by PDW View Post
    Don't get too big a chuck, you've a relatively feeble 2MT tailstock spindle. 1/2" max capacity is plenty.
    I reckon that's good advice. Thinking "bigger is better" I bought a 16mm Vertex chuck and it is overkill. By going smaller you can get a better quality chuck for the same money. Many drill bits over ½" are available with a reduced shank anyway. However, one thing in favour of a 16mm chuck might be more surface area to grip if your hands aren't as strong as they used to be.
    Chris

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by jack620 View Post
    I reckon that's good advice. Thinking "bigger is better" I bought a 16mm Vertex chuck and it is overkill. By going smaller you can get a better quality chuck for the same money. Many drill bits over ½" are available with a reduced shank anyway. However, one thing in favour of a 16mm chuck might be more surface area to grip if your hands aren't as strong as they used to be.
    This is the chuck I am thinking about....
    Optimum-Keyless-Chuck_002.jpg
    The thing I'm not sure about is the choice between Drawbar and Tang for the Morse taper. The picture above is, I am assuming the Drawbar type... Not sure which type should be used on the lathe. The thing I like about this type of chuck is the ability to use a C Spanner to get them snugged up and undone again. Never been great with the grip anyway so will need all the help I can get.
    Gaza

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gaza58 View Post
    The thing I'm not sure about is the choice between Drawbar and Tang for the Morse taper.
    Either works. The advantage of the drawbar type is you can fine-tune it to eject at the right place by adjusting the extension of a piece of all-thread. As you can see, I had to grind some of the tang off my 16mm chuck because it was ejecting before the tailstock had returned to "0" on the graduations.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Chris

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gaza58 View Post
    The thing I'm not sure about is the choice between Drawbar and Tang for the Morse taper. The picture above is, I am assuming the Drawbar type... Not sure which type should be used on the lathe. The thing I like about this type of chuck is the ability to use a C Spanner to get them snugged up and undone again. Never been great with the grip anyway so will need all the help I can get.
    Gaza
    Doesn't really matter as Jack has pointed out.

    I'd say that if you don't have a strong grip then a keyed chuck of good quality will offer more leverage. The other thing to consider is, it's preferable for the drill bit to spin in the chuck than the chuck to spin in the tailstock, and you won't have a locking tang slot in the TS that's for sure. My later Maximat doesn't. The Chipmaster does and I'm a lot more aggressive with it than the Maximat. I know all the arguments about the tang being only there to eject the arbor, don't care, it still helps stop a chuck arbor spinning (up to the point where it twists or shears but it hasn't happened to me yet even on the Monarch using a 2" drill into steel).

    You can get keyless chucks with a locking ring - I've got a couple made by Albrecht IIRC. Designed for impact drills and the like, very nicely made, great grip - I use them in my drill press.

    PDW

  14. #14
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Gaza58 View Post
    This is the chuck I am thinking about....
    Optimum-Keyless-Chuck_002.jpg
    The thing I'm not sure about is the choice between Drawbar and Tang for the Morse taper. The picture above is, I am assuming the Drawbar type... Not sure which type should be used on the lathe. The thing I like about this type of chuck is the ability to use a C Spanner to get them snugged up and undone again. Never been great with the grip anyway so will need all the help I can get.
    Gaza
    In that case get a keyed chuck ! I use both a 13 mm and a 16 mm ones attached to MT2 shanks. Both shanks are plain ended, no tang ! There is no provision for either a tang or a drawbar on my lathe tailstock.

    I do use a drawbar to secure the ER32 collet holder in the lathe spindle though.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gaza58 View Post
    Are there better keyless chucks to look for?
    Arguably some of the best keyless chucks in the world are Albrecht. I never thought much of keyless chucks until I tried them. Unless you are buying good quality name brand keyless chucks, I would say don't. Keyed chucks are relatively cheap and do the job. If you are new to machining I would leave the keyless chuck until you find you have a need and will appreciate why you are spending a fair bit of money for something like that. Cheap and/or worn chucks will slip.

    Michael

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