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13th Mar 2019, 04:26 PM #16Gear expert in training
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13th Mar 2019, 11:24 PM #17Golden Member
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I only have very cheap files - what sort of file should I buy to appreciate what a good quality one is like - mine would be from Bunnings , purchased many years ago. Have only just started to better appreciate what I might be able to do with a file, am aware of the 1" cube through a cut square hole exercise that many people did as apprentices.
Bill
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14th Mar 2019, 12:04 AM #18Gear expert in training
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I have some Wiltshire Australia and Oberg Sweden files that are a pleasure to use. Unfortunately, I don't think either of those still exist. Bahco makes "Oberg cut" files, not sure what that means though...
Have a look on ebay for NOS (new old stock) files from both those brands as well as Vallorbe, you'll get quality without the $80 price tag of a new one.
There's a hand tool sale this coming sunday in Melbourne if you want to make the trip; it's primarily woodworking stuff, but there's usually a good selection of new old files. I picked up a dozen assorted Swiss and English needle files for about $20 last time and you'd be paying at least $20 each for them new
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20th Mar 2019, 11:23 PM #19Gear expert in training
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Had a chat with the foreman and he reckons it could be done in a horizontal mill with a 45 degree angle cutter.
Got an offcut of 3" EN25 bar for proof of concept, if it works I'll see what other sizes we have lying around. Any suggestions for other suitable steel grades that the average engineering shop might have?
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21st Mar 2019, 09:02 AM #20Golden Member
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- Nov 2010
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Another type
https://www.turbowerkzeuge.de/index....tter/file-disc
They also have things called milling discs that may be of interest.
I sent in a price enquiry but no response yet.
Milling disc is less ambiguous than filing disc so google becomes a bit more useful in searching for them.
To answer Elans question I guess your average hobbyist would have access to high carbon steel and a milling facility either on lathe or mill. Dont know what your average small commercial engineering workshop would have acces to.
Bill
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21st Mar 2019, 09:41 AM #21Most Valued Member
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- Jul 2016
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I use a steel called Hycase, which is l believe 4317 in us grades and close to 8620. It's properties are very close to EN25 but you get much much better surface finish and less burrs.
It is a case hardening steel which really stays dimensionally tight when hardening. I think using a high carbon tool steel it would end up like a Pringle.
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21st Mar 2019, 11:47 AM #22Golden Member
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21st Mar 2019, 12:08 PM #23Most Valued Member
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Unfortunately distortion depends greatly on the heat treatment and tempering cycle, normally the distortion is fine and you just grind (or other machining process) it out (you leave some grinding allowance on the part maybe .003- .010" depending on anticipated distortion) but in an application like this you cannot grind it as it has the cutting teeth on the front face so i think case hardening would be the only way to get a usable tooth. I would be extremely curious to see how they would heat treat these.
A good way to see how bad it can get is to get some bright cold rolled mild steel and take just one side off on the mill, it gets a heck of a bow.
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21st Mar 2019, 09:05 PM #24Gear expert in training
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Found some milling discs with a price...there's a reason most places don't tell you how much they cost
https://tft-pneumatic.com/catalog/tft-milling-discs/
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21st Mar 2019, 09:44 PM #25Golden Member
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- Jul 2011
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- Adelaide
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- 837
Seems a shaper might be a good way of making these used in the same way you do knurling on flat surfaces with one.
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