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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by steamingbill View Post
    I have now lost interest at these prices, would have been interesting to have $20 - $40
    You can barely get a decent normal file at that price, let alone a specialty one. That being said, I still wouldn't have thought they were so expensive; maybe $60-100.

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by elanjacobs View Post
    You can barely get a decent normal file at that price, let alone a specialty one. That being said, I still wouldn't have thought they were so expensive; maybe $60-100.
    I only have very cheap files - what sort of file should I buy to appreciate what a good quality one is like - mine would be from Bunnings , purchased many years ago. Have only just started to better appreciate what I might be able to do with a file, am aware of the 1" cube through a cut square hole exercise that many people did as apprentices.

    Bill

  3. #18
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    I have some Wiltshire Australia and Oberg Sweden files that are a pleasure to use. Unfortunately, I don't think either of those still exist. Bahco makes "Oberg cut" files, not sure what that means though...

    Have a look on ebay for NOS (new old stock) files from both those brands as well as Vallorbe, you'll get quality without the $80 price tag of a new one.

    There's a hand tool sale this coming sunday in Melbourne if you want to make the trip; it's primarily woodworking stuff, but there's usually a good selection of new old files. I picked up a dozen assorted Swiss and English needle files for about $20 last time and you'd be paying at least $20 each for them new

  4. #19
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    Had a chat with the foreman and he reckons it could be done in a horizontal mill with a 45 degree angle cutter.

    Got an offcut of 3" EN25 bar for proof of concept, if it works I'll see what other sizes we have lying around. Any suggestions for other suitable steel grades that the average engineering shop might have?

  5. #20
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    Default Another type

    https://www.turbowerkzeuge.de/index....tter/file-disc

    They also have things called milling discs that may be of interest.

    I sent in a price enquiry but no response yet.

    Milling disc is less ambiguous than filing disc so google becomes a bit more useful in searching for them.

    To answer Elans question I guess your average hobbyist would have access to high carbon steel and a milling facility either on lathe or mill. Dont know what your average small commercial engineering workshop would have acces to.

    Bill

  6. #21
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    I use a steel called Hycase, which is l believe 4317 in us grades and close to 8620. It's properties are very close to EN25 but you get much much better surface finish and less burrs.
    It is a case hardening steel which really stays dimensionally tight when hardening. I think using a high carbon tool steel it would end up like a Pringle.

  7. #22
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    Default Pringles

    Quote Originally Posted by caskwarrior View Post
    I use a steel called Hycase, which is l believe 4317 in us grades and close to 8620. It's properties are very close to EN25 but you get much much better surface finish and less burrs.
    It is a case hardening steel which really stays dimensionally tight when hardening. I think using a high carbon tool steel it would end up like a Pringle.
    Thanks,

    Have never used high carbon steel only read about it. Have got some for "One Day"

    How thick do pieces of high carbon steel have to be relative to the other dimensions in order that they don't end up like a pringle ?

    Bill

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by steamingbill View Post
    Thanks,

    Have never used high carbon steel only read about it. Have got some for "One Day"

    How thick do pieces of high carbon steel have to be relative to the other dimensions in order that they don't end up like a pringle ?

    Bill

    Unfortunately distortion depends greatly on the heat treatment and tempering cycle, normally the distortion is fine and you just grind (or other machining process) it out (you leave some grinding allowance on the part maybe .003- .010" depending on anticipated distortion) but in an application like this you cannot grind it as it has the cutting teeth on the front face so i think case hardening would be the only way to get a usable tooth. I would be extremely curious to see how they would heat treat these.

    A good way to see how bad it can get is to get some bright cold rolled mild steel and take just one side off on the mill, it gets a heck of a bow.

  9. #24
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    Found some milling discs with a price...there's a reason most places don't tell you how much they cost
    https://tft-pneumatic.com/catalog/tft-milling-discs/

  10. #25
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    Jul 2011
    Location
    Adelaide
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    Default

    Seems a shaper might be a good way of making these used in the same way you do knurling on flat surfaces with one.

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