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Thread: Heat Treatment Kiln
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9th Mar 2019, 10:06 AM #1Most Valued Member
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Heat Treatment Kiln
They seem simple enough to build, but one thing I would like to know is:
The standard brick is 230x115x76.
bottom is no problem if you want to make it wider than say 230, but for the top how do you support the bricks so that they dont fall in if you wanted to go wider to say 2 or more bricks?
I am guessing a lintel is out of the question due to temperatures....lol
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9th Mar 2019, 10:24 AM #2Golden Member
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If you're think of making one why not look around for pottery kiln, even the small ones get to 1200C. I picked up a small working Ward kiln on Gumtree for $75, nothing fancy 10 amp single phase plug, simmerstat temp control, could be easily converted to a proper PID type thermostat control.
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9th Mar 2019, 02:06 PM #3Golden Member
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For a wider roof, the bricks would be cut to a taper and laid as an arch. A timber frame is used to support the arch during the build process.
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10th Mar 2019, 10:29 AM #4Golden Member
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Back in the early 80's I worked at a high school and replaced the elements in kilns that were used in the art centre, the fire bricks on the sides had a channel/groove where the element was laid, the element started at the bottom and worked it's way to the top, the top was flat and hinged at the back, the kiln was loaded from the top, a small hole on the side allowed a small cone shaped test piece called a slump tester to be viewed - as the name suggests the top of the cone would slump to one side once a certain temp had been reached - not very accurate but adequate for pottery.
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10th Mar 2019, 04:44 PM #5Most Valued Member
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10th Mar 2019, 04:45 PM #6Most Valued Member
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10th Mar 2019, 04:46 PM #7Most Valued Member
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10th Mar 2019, 07:26 PM #8Golden Member
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This one does Ge & Ge Kilns - first class kilns to precisely match your requirements
My suggestion was based on several years laying bricks in a previous life rather than any specific kiln experience. From my few encounters with fire bricks, I recall them being easy to cut. An arch results in force pushing outwards, the angle iron frame would contain this. I suspect the flat roofs must have a supporting rod passing through a hole bored in the bricks, or some such arrangement. I would think an arch would be longer lasting.
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10th Mar 2019, 08:55 PM #9Most Valued Member
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11th Mar 2019, 12:02 AM #10Most Valued Member
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About time to take SWMBO on a holiday, Lake Macquarie area should be nice this time of year,
https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/spee...iln/1212169009
$635, all the work is done for you.
KrynTo grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
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11th Mar 2019, 12:16 AM #11China
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If you wish to build a larger unit than is than the bricks, then cast the entire unit using castable refractory cement, and set in a steel frame, I made a front loading kiln for my niece using this method 20 years ago.
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11th Mar 2019, 10:10 PM #12Senior Member
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I built mine with insulating firebricks (they are kind of aerated and very light and easy to cut and shape). I can get to 800C slowly with about 2400W of element but with only one layer of bricks it does get very hot on the outside showing that its not insulated enough. I'm not sure I could get much hotter with that element and one layer of bricks. I think the ones in kilns are a denser material.
Anyway, I have the top of mine two bricks wide for the reasons you are asking about (that was about as wide as I could bridge), I wasn't sure how to successfully bridge a wider gap. Anyway, mine is big enough for my purposes.
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12th Mar 2019, 08:35 AM #13Most Valued Member
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12th Mar 2019, 08:38 AM #14Most Valued Member
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12th Mar 2019, 08:42 AM #15Most Valued Member
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