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  1. #1
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    Oct 2016
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    Default Meca dividing head

    I got this Meca dividing head last week and today pulled it apart, looks to be in good shape, will replace the thrust bearings and give it a good clean. Does anyone know were i can get a copy of a manual Been looking on the net so far can not find any.

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  2. #2
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    Jul 2016
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    Default

    If the worm ratio is 40:1 then the same manual for literally any other head will give you what you need. Even just look up dividing head tables and that will be close enough. I have the tables for an aciera head I can scan and give you if you lose out elsewhere.

    Sent from my Nokia 8 Sirocco using Tapatalk

  3. #3
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    That almost looks like a copy of a Hoffman, one of their manuals may be available online.

    Sent from my Nokia 8 Sirocco using Tapatalk

  4. #4
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by caskwarrior View Post
    If the worm ratio is 40:1 then the same manual for literally any other head will give you what you need. Even just look up dividing head tables and that will be close enough. I have the tables for an aciera head I can scan and give you if you lose out elsewhere.

    Sent from my Nokia 8 Sirocco using Tapatalk
    OK thanks mate, I'll will have a look on the PM site for any info. Really i don't need a manual but if i can get a copy why not.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
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    Charlestown NSW
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    Default

    "thrust bearings" ? I cant imagine its done that much work as to need new thrust bearings. From what I can see in the pics it looks like the main spindle has taper bearings. I'd be inclined to clean it up, reassemble with the correct lube (oil) and see how it goes. You might find that's all it needs.
    I've just done a similar thing to my big old Rotary table. Once I cleaned all the old, dried grease out of it, and scrapped a high spot on the main body under the table, on reassembly it turned great.
    Re the taper bearings, as you don't have a original makers hand book . I'd be inclined to nip the bearings up until the shaft turned easy (oiled up of course) with no discernible end float and try it at that.
    Hope this helps
    peter

  6. #6
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bollie7 View Post
    "thrust bearings" ? I cant imagine its done that much work as to need new thrust bearings. From what I can see in the pics it looks like the main spindle has taper bearings. I'd be inclined to clean it up, reassemble with the correct lube (oil) and see how it goes. You might find that's all it needs.
    I've just done a similar thing to my big old Rotary table. Once I cleaned all the old, dried grease out of it, and scrapped a high spot on the main body under the table, on reassembly it turned great.
    Re the taper bearings, as you don't have a original makers hand book . I'd be inclined to nip the bearings up until the shaft turned easy (oiled up of course) with no discernible end float and try it at that.
    Hope this helps
    peter
    Hi,
    Yes thrust bearings for the worm shaft, so while it's apart might as well replace them. No spindle bearings.

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  7. #7
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    Dec 2014
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    melbourne
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    Default

    Hard to see from a photo but I see very little evidence of wear on the thrust face in the 3rd photo.
    Looks like you have made a good buy.

    Robert

  8. #8
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    Default

    Oh, Ok. I can see them now. Still, might not need replacing. Its not like they are in a high speed application. Looking at that worm it looks like you really scored a good bit of gear with very little wear. Way to go.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by shedeng View Post
    Hard to see from a photo but I see very little evidence of wear on the thrust face in the 3rd photo.
    Looks like you have made a good buy.

    Robert
    Thanks mate,
    Yeah it looks good but there is a problem which i will update.

  10. #10
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bollie7 View Post
    Oh, Ok. I can see them now. Still, might not need replacing. Its not like they are in a high speed application. Looking at that worm it looks like you really scored a good bit of gear with very little wear. Way to go.
    Yeah it looks good but there is a problem which i will update. Have a look at the photos.

  11. #11
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    Oct 2016
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    Default

    OK i was trying to remove the second shaft, it had a blind pin which i had to drill out. It wasn't a hardened pin so easy to dill then fiddle around for a while and i still could not remove the shaft, so i decided to cut the shaft off and drill a 3/4 inch hole and tap out the dead center and the rest of the shaft. So my thinking is this dividing head has been mess around with, why would someone fit in a pin on a tapped shaft and then fit the dead center in as well Today i started putting it back together and found out the next problem, it looks like there was a key way on the main shaft that has been drilled out for the pin to be fitted and that pin was sticking out just far enough to lock onto the disc with all the holes drilled into it and the key way slot then you screw the threaded disc with the 6 holes on to remove the backlash and line up one of the holes and lock it in with the screw. So now it just spins around and no key to lock it in place , so now i need to get a key way machine on the main shaft.

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  12. #12
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    May 2011
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    Murray Bridge S Aust.
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    I think you'll find that it was always intended to have a pin in place to hold the locking ring. It probably happened that the pin has worked its way in jamming the centre in position. What make me think that, is if it was meant to be a keyway, it would have been there on the outside of the shaft,
    Have seen that idea in a couple of other places, I think one was possibly a differential out of a truck.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore View Post
    I think you'll find that it was always intended to have a pin in place to hold the locking ring. It probably happened that the pin has worked its way in jamming the centre in position. What make me think that, is if it was meant to be a keyway, it would have been there on the outside of the shaft,
    Have seen that idea in a couple of other places, I think one was possibly a differential out of a truck.
    Kryn
    Yeah i see what you mean, but i still think they drill the hole right threw the shaft and tap the pin in, as you can see in these pics the threaded collar clamps onto the shoulder of the shaft that should not move at all, no need for a pin.Resize of IMG_7137.jpgResize of IMG_7136.jpg

  14. #14
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    Finish up putting the dividing head back together today, tap in a pin to lock the locking ring in place all good and i can rotate the head to a virtual poison.

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  15. #15
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    Default

    I just found a couple of you tube vids of this Meca dividing head in action.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tQBh...ex=183&list=WL





    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Srl0...t=WL&index=183

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