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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael G View Post
    Thanks Michael,I had not seen those tubs. They look about the right size.

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore View Post
    What about using an old fridge/freezer, on its side. The insides are one piece, the door could be used for large pieces, and you'd probably pick one up off the side of the road on Council Clean Up days.
    Kryn
    Yeah....good point. I'm sure I'd find one at the tip if it came to that.

  3. #18
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    I reckon something like this might be a good start: https://www.bunnings.com.au/ezy-stor...e-tub_p2583516 They also have much bigger ones....
    Here is a starting point for a dirty water pump: https://www.bunnings.com.au/ozito-78...f-kit_p0054909
    And here is your mixer gun: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/110880136615 (plus a few fittings and some sort of nozzle - maybe https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/252980747574)
    A glass window fitted into the lid and some long cuff thick rubber gloves into the front.....
    I'm thinking I could really use something like that myself.... just finished glass blasting a cylinder head....

    Here is a good diagram of a commercial system:
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  4. #19
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Thanks for info Joe.

    Quote Originally Posted by jhovel View Post
    I reckon something like this might be a good start: https://www.bunnings.com.au/ezy-stor...e-tub_p2583516 They also have much bigger ones....
    One problem with many tubs like the one in the link is that they don't have flat sides which makes it a PITA to fit flanges for things like glove holes, doors and screens. The ones with flat sides also tend to be flimsy, and unless you are only working with small parts I reckon anything smaller than ~150 L in size is a bit limiting.

    Here is a starting point for a dirty water pump: https://www.bunnings.com.au/ozito-78...f-kit_p0054909
    I was looking at that same pump at bunnings yesterday afternoon.

  5. #20
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    Near Bendigo, Victoria, AUS
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    I agree with your sentiments BobL. I was going to have a look if the two flat parts on each face were wide enough for gloves.
    I'm also thinking about two shallower tapered bins on top of each other with a stainless steel frame beween them to accommodate hinges and seals.... maybe using most of the bottom one as the hopper.
    Alternatively, a stainless steel dishwasher lying on its back might be a suitable enclosure (my daughter is about to throw one out....).
    Looking at the basting nozzles on eBay (f.g. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/263986382440), it would seem a reasonable to modify the side entry to let more water and media through, e.g. 3/4" might be cheaper than the bits required to start with an inline filter....

    On a slightly divergent topic: I have one of those wet blasting attachment for my big pressure washer. That is quite a different process, and only works with very sharp media. After lots of experiments, I found that recycled glass has just the right shaprness and ineria to work well. Everthing else was very disappointing.
    That process uses and wastes a lot of media, so can get expensive quickly. I can see why guys build glass crushers on YouTube.....
    I blasted my sculpture early last year and cleaned all paint and rust off it relatively quickly, but went through 60 litres of glass!
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  6. #21
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    The more I think about it the more I think I should just re-use the Clemco unit. ( If I can find a way to stopping it rusting away! )
    I don't want to Soda Blast or Sand Blast anymore, so I do't need it and its a good cabinet.
    Will look into finding a robust coating for the interior.
    I haven't got any shed room yet, so it will have to wait....

    This is the pump that one guy has used. Amazon is the only place I can find that sells it here, so far.
    Tsurumi HS2.4S; semi-vortex submersible trash pump w/agitator, 1/2hp, 115V, 2" discharge

    Sludge Pump.JPG

  7. #22
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    Aug 2006
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    Melbourne
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    Found one for you, looks to be even in the correct voltage

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Tsurumi-...Awh:rk:15:pf:0

  8. #23
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sterob View Post
    I haven't got any shed room yet, so it will have to wait....
    Something I say nearly every day . . . .

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Com_VC View Post
    Found one for you, looks to be even in the correct voltage

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Tsurumi-...Awh:rk:15:pf:0

    Damit.....lol

  10. #25
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    Dec 2013
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    Sydney
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sterob View Post
    Will look into finding a robust coating for the interior.
    In the past I've purchased a lot of 3mm HDPE sheet for bench tops and other applications. I haven't seen prices in the past 3 years, but last time I purchased it was reasonably cheap in that thickness. I'd estimate only a couple of hundred dollars to line the inside of your cabinet. I used to get it from Dotmar, they sell HDPE to the food industry so volume is high and prices reasonable. They used to have down to 1mm sheet.

    Graham.

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oldbikerider View Post
    In the past I've purchased a lot of 3mm HDPE sheet for bench tops and other applications. I haven't seen prices in the past 3 years, but last time I purchased it was reasonably cheap in that thickness. I'd estimate only a couple of hundred dollars to line the inside of your cabinet. I used to get it from Dotmar, they sell HDPE to the food industry so volume is high and prices reasonable. They used to have down to 1mm sheet.

    Graham.
    I think it might be too difficult to keep the moisture from ingressing behind the sheets, even if one did use sealer on the edges.
    I was thinking more of a epoxy paint of some description.

  12. #27
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    Melbourne
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    Undercarriage/ute bed liner or similar.

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/RAPTOR-B...sAAOSwYIxX4hyL

  13. #28
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sterob View Post
    I think it might be too difficult to keep the moisture from ingressing behind the sheets, even if one did use sealer on the edges.
    I was thinking more of a epoxy paint of some description.
    Using silicone at the edges and around bolt holes on HDPE or Polypropylene sheet produces a very effective seal. To get a really good silicone/plastic surface adhesion, edges and holes have to be thoroughly cleaned with a solvent and then wiped/primed with raw vinegar and let dry. This is how we made fume hoods in metal free laboratories where there were some pretty aggressive chemicals in use and they lasted for more than 15 years before the silicone seals started leaking.

    Epoxy does not bond well to HDPE to begin with and is also more rigid and moves a lot less that HDPE. Over the long the HDPE swells, shrinks and flows under different temperatures and pressures (ie around bolt holes) so it can easily break away from the epoxy. We typically got 4-5 years from epoxy plastic seals.

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sterob View Post
    I think it might be too difficult to keep the moisture from ingressing behind the sheets, even if one did use sealer on the edges.
    I was thinking more of a epoxy paint of some description.
    I don't think moisture will be a problem, but as Bob has said you should be able to effectively seal the corner joins between HDPE sheets.

    The reason I say moisture won't be a problem is that there are plenty of quality paints that protect steel for years outdoors. The issue with a blast cabinet is that the blasting will remove the paint and you're down to unprotected bare steel, but the HDPE lining will stop the paint surface erosion. You'd just need to ensure that the high energy blast can't sneak past the HDPE lining sheets.

    Graham.

  15. #30
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    Jul 2012
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    Malvern East
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    I have a DANA RIDGE unit at work the inside is rubber lined with white 6 mm sheet rubber thats all and a 1/8 thick fibreglass cabinet oh and SS internals the sheets are simply overlapped by about 10 12 mm so they form rounded edges PS Don't over feed it with glass bead pumps hate it if too much is set up in the base feeder tube ( there is a bypass line not shown in the picture above) to get some fluid rolling in that area good luck with it
    Bruce

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