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6th Jan 2019, 07:23 PM #1Diamond Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2013
- Location
- Laidley, SE Qld
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- 1,039
Removing the wheel from a Vertex clone of the Deckel SO
I need to get into the end of the machine to replace the belt.
First step is to remove the grinding wheel, there has to be some way of locking the spindle in order to undo the grinding wheel nut but it eludes me.
Google and youtube have failed me.
Any tips on belt sources, presumably Hafpos? This one has a 6mm round section.
IMG_2250.jpg
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6th Jan 2019, 08:16 PM #2Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2008
- Location
- Sydney Australia
- Posts
- 142
Might be overthinking it Bob, but i would just grip the wheel with one (maybe gloved ?) hand and undo with the pin-spanner in the other. Should be a right-hand thread if wheel spins CCW
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6th Jan 2019, 10:09 PM #3Mechanical Butcher
- Join Date
- Oct 2004
- Location
- Southern Highlands NSW
- Posts
- 1,898
For round section belt: Habasit
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6th Jan 2019, 10:20 PM #4China
- Join Date
- Dec 2005
- Location
- South Australia
- Posts
- 1,658
If there is no way to lock the spindle position the pin spanner so you have free movement and strike the end of the spanner with a block of timber should shock it free
or maybe a timber wedge between the wheel and wheel guard to lock it
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6th Jan 2019, 11:34 PM #5Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2007
- Location
- Perth
- Posts
- 332
On the Deckel SO machine the thread as mentioned is CCW to undo and there is a nut form on the end of the spindle to hold it with a tube spanner while using a pin spanner for the flange nut. Not clear from your your photo what the end of the spindle is, but as mentioned a good grip on the wheel should be enough to get it loose. Good luck with it. Alan.
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7th Jan 2019, 07:53 AM #6Golden Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2007
- Location
- Vic
- Age
- 48
- Posts
- 544
if you bring the spindle in far enough then you will be able to line up the hole on the casing with the hole and the spindle then insert a pin to lock.
IMG_2250.jpg
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28th Jan 2019, 11:25 AM #7Diamond Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2013
- Location
- Laidley, SE Qld
- Posts
- 1,039
Wheels for HSS?
Thanks for the info, removal worked a treat.
For a replacement drive belt I'm using a 5mm O ring from the local bearing shop, I'll see if I can find a more PC 6mm O ring.
I need to buy plain and cup wheels (100mm x 20mm bore, white) for use with HSS, what grade wheels will be a useful starting point?
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28th Jan 2019, 02:37 PM #8Golden Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2007
- Location
- Adelaide
- Posts
- 574
You may want to check this out - I'm at the pointy end of my Quorn build, (the casting sat under my bench for over 25yrs before I made a start) and came across it while looking for info on grinding wheels.
UNIVERSAL TOOL AND CUTTER GRINDER Part 1 Getting the tool (updated 12/20/2016)
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28th Jan 2019, 06:02 PM #9Philomath in training
- Join Date
- Oct 2011
- Location
- Norwood-ish, Adelaide
- Age
- 59
- Posts
- 6,561
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1st Feb 2019, 08:13 PM #10Golden Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2007
- Location
- Adelaide
- Posts
- 574
I guess they were well seasoned, unfortunately it didn't make them any more pleasant to machine, while it is soft and easy to machine cast iron produces horrible black filings/powder that gets into every crevice so you are constantly cleaning the lathe.
I even found that once I had finished for the day and washed up in the stainless laundry tub a coating of rust appeared in the bottom of the tub a few hours later, house is only a few years old and at first I thought a poor quality tub had been fitted that suddenly started to rust, I did take a while to link the two together.
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1st Feb 2019, 10:38 PM #11
Hi Guys,
It might be interesting to turn out your coverall pockets after a day or two, after washing If you’ve been machining cast iron !Best Regards:
Baron J.
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