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  1. #16
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Quote Originally Posted by pipeclay View Post
    That's a pity, must of been exposed over an extremely long time.
    Might be an option to go your employer unless self induced.
    Self induced unfortunately my day job before retirement has always been white collar. While overall exposure is a factor, sarcoidosis is thought to have a genetic predisposition so if that's you then even incidental exposure to a wide range of stuff (eg combustion products, metal and other dusts) can trigger this condition. It's very difficult to determine causes because only about 1 in 10,000 people get it although a similar number are thought to get a mild dose but don't know they have it. The most likely candidates are females of African descent living in a house with poorly ventilated wood burning stoves/fireplace. Firefighters and metal workers get it slightly above the average population.

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by REALOldNick View Post
    Well the blade has 3800 rpm written on it.
    That's just its maximum rated speed, it doesn't mean you should go that fast.

    Can you upload a pic? If we can see the tooth angle and profile it'll be easy to determine its proper use.

  3. #18
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    Nov 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    Its almost certainly a negative raked toothed blade - if so it will be slow as treacle in wood
    Beat me to it.
    Chris

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    Its almost certainly a negative raked toothed blade - if so it will be slow as treacle in wood - but keep it to cut ally/brass and plastic.
    I've used the 14" Ally saw at work to cut wood and to be honest it wasn't that bad cutting timber. I know it should be terrible, but it seemed to cut even 100x100 hardwood and leftv quite a nice finish to boot.
    It wouldn't surprise me if the blade in question is now a throw away item. Cheap blades that meet steel usually fracture and shed teeth to the degree that they are non viable to repair.

  5. #20
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Quote Originally Posted by Karl Robbers View Post
    I've used the 14" Ally saw at work to cut wood and to be honest it wasn't that bad cutting timber. I know it should be terrible, but it seemed to cut even 100x100 hardwood and leftv quite a nice finish to boot.
    I agree it definitely leaves a nice finish for cross cutting because it cuts so slowly. I leave my negatively raked toothed metal cutting blade on my TS as standard blade because I cut Al more than wood and its OK for cross cutting, but ripping any timber is like watching paint dry.

  6. #21
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    I have a Fein "Slugger" 14" TCT metal saw that runs at 1,300RPM and by gosh it does nice cuts fast. I have a bandsaw as well, and it's good for complex or delicate cuts, or ones where you're happy for it to chug away and stop itself, but if you need a super clean cut fast, it's brilliant.

    That said, the enemy is heat. The manual advises that you should try to avoid prolonged horizontal cuts that build up heat, suggesting that flat bar, for example, should be mounted vertically.

  7. #22
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    I bought a 184mm 48T Irwin 'metal cutting" circular saw blade: the blade itself is clearly marked "steel cutting" but there are no other details. I want to maximise blade life so checked the Irwin website for more info - no luck - then phoned Irwin tech support, and asked the following questions:
    1. 5000rpm is the max safe speed but are slower speeds recommended for better blade life? "Yes"
    2. Mild steel only? "Yes"
    3. What is the max sheet/plate thickness? "3mm-5mm".
    4. Is it correct that when cutting plate, the saw teeth should only project a little more than the plate thickness? "Yes"
    The guy was as helpful as he could be, but there must be more info on this issue somewhere...

    Makita has a hand held "cold metal cut" saw model 4131, an expensive item with 185mm diameter blade running at 3500rpm max (https://www.makita.com.au/products/p...-metal-cut-saw) and the user guide has information about cutting conditions, including a table of blade tooth number vs metal thickness and profile, showing good and bad choices. Looks as if blades of this type have a narrow range of application for decent blade life.
    Apparently Makita blades have cermet tips (not carbide) and are stated to be non-resharpenable.

    My Irwin blade is said to have "metal cutting grade carbide" tips, but there is no info as to resharpening. Will have to try it and see.

    Bill

    Edit - correction

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by WCD View Post
    I bought a 184mm 48T Irwin 'metal cutting" circular saw blade: the blade itself is clearly marked "steel cutting" but there are no other details. I want to maximise blade life so checked the Irwin website for more info - no luck - then phoned Irwin tech support, and asked the following questions:
    1. 5000rpm is the max safe speed but are slower speeds recommended for better blade life? "Yes"
    2. Mild steel only? "Yes"
    3. What is the max sheet/plate thickness? "3mm-5mm".
    4. Is it correct that when cutting plate, the saw teeth should only project a little more than the plate thickness? "Yes"
    The guy was as helpful as he could be, but there must be more info on this issue somewhere...

    Makita has a hand held "cold metal cut" saw model 4131, an expensive item with 185mm diameter blade running at 3500rpm max (https://www.makita.com.au/products/p...-metal-cut-saw) and the user guide has information about cutting conditions, including a table of blade tooth number vs metal thickness and profile, showing good and bad choices. Looks as if blades of this type have a narrow range of application for decent blade life.
    Apparently Makita blades have cermet tips (not carbide) and are stated to be non-resharpenable.

    My Irwin blade is said to have "metal cutting grade carbide" tips, but there is no info as to resharpening. Will have to try it and see.

    Bill

    Edit - correction
    I have used both the Irwin blade and the Makita cold cut saw that you describe. Both blades are non resharpenable if used on steel, however the Irwin blade should be okay if you restrict it to aluminium, (which it does very nicely). when tackling steel you will find that by the time resharpening is on the cards, you will have badly chipped or shed enough tips to make either a non viable option.
    FWIW, I never developed a love affair with the Makita cold cut saw, I think our star signs must have been incompatible.

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