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Thread: Squirt bottles

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by China View Post
    I had the same problem I now use these have been using one for two years with bleach, kero, turps, metho, window cleaner and it is still goingI have a couple of their standard ones also that are is at least 10 years old and still going although only been used with various commercial spray and wipe type mixtures https://www.adelaidecleaningsupplies...n-us/p856.html
    Thanks for this lead China. I've just ordered a couple of the chemical resistant squirters for testing with dilute rust converter, and will report back here when I've tried them.
    Graham.

  2. #32
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Here is my squirt bottle Matrix

    Screen Shot 2018-12-11 at 8.19.51 am.png

    As you can see I am a total cheap skate.
    I looked at the Chemical resistant triggers but the $20 delivery put me off a bit.

    I also have a WD40 squirter I picked up along with some liquid WD40 cheaply when Masters was closing down. I only use it occasionally with WD40 - I guess I could try that with Kero but then I'd need to find something else for the WD40 - does anyone know if a generic bottle work with WD40?

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by shedhappens View Post
    Graham sorry for the confusion and the waste of yout lunchtime.
    What l should have said is kero will be become very abrasive if mixed with grit, in other words the grit will become much more abrasive if it gets kero in it.
    cheers shed
    Let's just keep it simple.

    Kerosene does not become abrasive under any circumstances, ever.

    If you mix an abrasive in any liquid carrier, you now have an abrasive slurry of some varying viscosity.

    On the original topic, I have a number of the 1 litre CRC spray bottles and they handle kero & diesel just fine.

    PDW

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grahame Collins View Post
    Hi Bob,
    I take it what you are looking for a chemical resistant spray bottle possibly from these people.

    https://austchems.com.au/product/can...cal-resistant/

    Grahame
    I've used the Canyon type before and they were very good. Have not bought new ones in years so not sure if quality now is the same.
    Nev.

  5. #35
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    If you want the Canyon brand trigger gun and don't mind the label that's on the bottles, then this is where you can get three, plus bottles for $12.

    http://www.swipeaustralia.com.au/TRIGGER-GUN-Set-of-3

    This is where I got mine many years ago. They used to sell the trigger guns only, so maybe still available.
    Nev.

  6. #36
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Michael's post and a PM about using a squirt/wash bottle rather than a spray pump got me thinking.

    Firstly I already have some unused Nalgene Labware squirt bottles in my shed that I could use.
    Being made of a combo of low and high density PE means they would be chemically resistant to most solvents and not using a pump there's far less to go wrong.
    Michael reminded me that mostly we need a squirt rather than a spray.
    The chemical I use most commonly as a spray is Tannic acid for rust conversion when all I really just need a fine mist applied to the object being treated.
    For most other things a squirt is really what I need.

    I also checked on Ebay and thanks to the Tatt community there are hundreds of types of PE squirt/wash bottles for sale and I just bought 3 x 500mL wash bottles for the princely amount of $3.89 including GST and delivery.

    There are some very neat looking 100mL versions with a straight spout that look like they could be useful.
    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Tattoo-S...:rk:1:pf:0&var
    Screen Shot 2018-12-11 at 7.58.14 pm.png

  7. #37
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    Hi Guys,

    Along the line of Bobs post, I've discovered that the plastic cartridge gun nozzles will screw onto some plastic bottles ! Unfortunately not all of them they are too small for most.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  8. #38
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    For dripping or controlled application of oil I use inkjet refill bottles. I've got a stash of these from when I used to refill my printer cartridges. The coloured lids also help keep track of what oil is in the bottle.

    Oil Bottles.jpg

    These two live next to the lathe, neat cutting oil in the black and Tap Magic in the yellow.
    The long needle like metal nozzle is perfect for applying cutting oil when parting as you can get it right down in the groove where the blade is and apply a single drip as required. Same goes for getting oil down in a hole for drilling.
    Having such fine control over where the oil goes and how much is delivered minimises mess and waste.
    I keep another one (red) with ISO68 oil for fine lubricating jobs.
    Cheers,
    Greg.

  9. #39
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    I don't have any empty inkjet printer refill bottles, but I found these on eBay. Can't go wrong for the price.

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2pcs-Cle...UAx:rk:15:pf:0
    Chris

  10. #40
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    Hi Guys,

    Just got these in the post about 30 minutes ago.
    35p each plus £5.50 p&p. Polythene 250 Mills detachable cap with built in nozzle.

    14-12-2018-002.JPG 14-12-2018-001.JPG
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  11. #41
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    Part of my collection. Have a few others filled with coolent mix for use on the drill press and distilled water.

    DSC08646 e.jpg

  12. #42
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    Sumitava Khan, former At Dignagar H. S. J. Institution at Student of Science (2013-2015)
    Answered Jan 28 · Author has 65 answers and 31.5k answer views








    1. Due to abrasive nature of kerosene, it may causing wearing of the components.
    2. Less cetane number, it may cause engine knocking.
    3. High volatile kerosene may cause nozzle chocking and damage to injector system.
    4. Calorific value of kerosene is very less, that will affect power output

  13. #43
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    Not sure that is all that relevant in this discussion, as the person you have cited above is clearly talking about running kerosene through fuel injectors for combustion purposes. Not knowing the state of the kerosene,the fuel lines or tank it is hard to say whether or not the comments are valid. At the pressures that injection systems run at, I would also expect the fuels being used to wear the components too. At close to zero pressure, I would not expect any (chemically inert) liquid at room temperature to cause wear. As others have pointed out, if the kerosene is acting for a carrier for grit, that is a different issue.

    My two cents worth...

    Michael

  14. #44
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    It's not really about wear - the spray bottles I repeatedly tried to use were used bottles that had previously held products like surface cleaner and were working fine until I put the kero in them - even just a few days after minor use the pumps stopped working - it's like the kero dissolved the piston seal or swelled the pump body up so the pump would not work. Anyway I'm switching to simple squirt bottles which should solve my prob. I had a similar problem with turps but the ex-Windex spray bottle seems to be holding up so far.

  15. #45
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    Any further update Bob on what you settled on and how they have been behaving?
    (Reminded of this today as I was applying kero with a lab type squirt bottle this weekend)

    Michael

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