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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Taree NSW
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    119

    Default face mill cutters

    Hi Guys,
    Have 2 face mills both requiring new cutters - the R8 arbor one has tools 1/2" sq. x 38 lg.- the morse taper one has tools 10 mm.sq. x 38 lg. - have looked on ebay and Hare & Forbes to no avail - perhaps you can help - having trouble loading photo
    let's see how I go this time - thanks for your inputimage001.jpg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    34
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    1,075

    Default

    Can't the inserts be sharpened? Look like there's a lot of carbide left there

    EDIT: On second thoughts, given that you can buy a shell mill and 10 inserts for $50, is it worth trying to find the old style? https://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-M...ol-c-6528.html

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default

    Hi Alf,

    Now having seen the pictures, I would suggest the same as I did in my other post !

    A new insert shell mill and arbour is not expensive at all ! Those things in your picture should be re-purposed, though I do have a couple of similar inserts that I've been considering trying as lathe tools.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
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    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
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    59
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    6,540

    Default

    Could you buy a 1/2" lathe tool and put that in there? (use it as a fly cutter with a single tool).
    A diamond wheel will sharpen those but I always wonder how to line them up later so they are all spot on. Without that, the roughing really is...

    Michael

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Australia east coast
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    71
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    2,713

    Default

    My suggestion - drop them in the bin if you can't salvage the arbors and buy something like this instead.

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-R8-F...item3d763f0dcd

    PDW

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2021
    Location
    Victoria
    Posts
    9

    Default

    With these face cutters are they generally specific arbors or can you attach the actual face cutter to a different arbor?

    Just to clarify, I’ve bought a mill, not picked up yet but need tooling. I’m entirely new to mills.

  7. #7
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    Oct 2011
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    Default

    Usually there is a screw or bolt up the middle so the cutter can come off the arbor. The arbors where they bolt onto the cutter are not standard though, so measure what you have have so you can buy a cutter and/or arbor to suit.

    Michael

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2021
    Location
    Victoria
    Posts
    9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael G View Post
    Usually there is a screw or bolt up the middle so the cutter can come off the arbor. The arbors where they bolt onto the cutter are not standard though, so measure what you have have so you can buy a cutter and/or arbor to suit.

    Michael
    Thanks, Ill do that when I get it. I was confused because the cutter had R8 on it so I thought it meant for one arbor type. I’ve since worked out that on a Widax the R8 means the cutter number.

    Im a bit confused by the arbor designation when I look around. Is Iso30, NT30 and BT30 all the same or are they all different.

    The machine I bought is secondhand and it’s a bit of a drama to collect with Covid rules in that state. Need to do multiple tests etc. I’m trying to combine pickup with a visit to my mother who lives there.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Laidley, SE Qld
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    1,038

    Default

    NT30 and BT30 are sort of the same but with different holding systems. Of the two NT30 is the usual arbor on a manual mill and is held in place with a (usually but not always) M12 draw bar.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    South of Adelaide
    Posts
    1,225

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rortmanns View Post
    Thanks, Ill do that when I get it. I was confused because the cutter had R8 on it so I thought it meant for one arbor type. I’ve since worked out that on a Widax the R8 means the cutter number.

    Im a bit confused by the arbor designation when I look around. Is Iso30, NT30 and BT30 all the same or are they all different.

    The machine I bought is secondhand and it’s a bit of a drama to collect with Covid rules in that state. Need to do multiple tests etc. I’m trying to combine pickup with a visit to my mother who lives there.
    Iso 30, NT30 & BT30 all have the same taper, ISO and NT are mainly for manual machines, ISO has a metric drawbar thread and NT is imperial. BT30 has a thicker flange with a groove to engage with a toolchanger arm, and it doesnt have the parallel section at the small end of the taper, they can be used in a manual machine if you use a longer drawbar or make a adapter to screw in the end like this: https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/T144 This one is for BT40.

  11. #11
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    Nov 2017
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    Geelong, Australia
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    57
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    Just be aware that there are “NT” arbors available for sale that have metric threads for the drawbar.

    I think that technically makes them NOT an NT type, but regardless - the important thing is don’t automatically assume that ISO is metric thread and NT is imperial. Always confirm.

    Steve

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    ACT
    Posts
    667

    Default

    those face mills can do an ok job when not blunt.

    easy enough job to sharpen with the right equipment...

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Revesby - Sydney Australia
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    56
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    1,183

    Default

    I agree with Elan and PDW. 'tis sometimes not worth persevering with strange old milling (or lathe parting) holders.



    I found a Widax M680 239.69.046 (Ø80). Looking at the manufacturer, it takes six XPHT/XPNT 1604.
    Not a common shape:
    IMG_2290.jpg

    Left is the (worn) XP_T. Middle is an APGW15T320R, and right is an APMT160512PDER.
    The AP__ series is easy to find and cheap, an 85° parallelogram.
    The X series is supposedly "custom", but looks about 82° to me.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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