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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

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    Hi Eskimo,

    Quote Originally Posted by eskimo View Post
    I differ from you BaronJ....I would have looked for the easiest way out...I wouldnt want to have done any more work than what was really needed
    I enjoy the journey Anyway it will look nicer.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default

    Hi Guys,

    I promised pictures, so here you are.

    06-12-2018-001.JPG 06-12-2018-002.JPG
    6" inch rotary table, set up on the mill table square to the back edge.
    The 1/4" inch ball end slot drill in the milling chuck, and zeroed on the centre line and work piece diameter.
    The work piece is screwed on to a MT2 1/125 x 12 tpi, mandrel in the RT centre hole. This is one of the two mandrels that I have for attaching the Myford lathe chuck to other bits of machinery.
    Incidentally the difference in colour between the two pictures, is with and without flash.

    06-12-2018-003.JPG 06-12-2018-004.JPG
    The machining is finished at this point.

    06-12-2018-005.JPG 06-12-2018-006.JPG
    And the end result ! Its surprising how the harrage picks up oil and grease from your fingers.
    I cut eleven grooves in the work, 2 mm deep. I ran the slot drill at 1000 rpm, lots and lots of nice little curly swarf.
    A greasy hand won't slip on that !
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    201

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Its surprising how the harrage picks up oil and grease from your fingers.
    Edge of a razor blade? Scotchbrite? A good clean, then hit it with a hot air gun to melt it away?

    All of the above will fix up the appearance.

    Graham.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

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    Hi Guys,

    I'm sure that many of you will remember this item. Well I got the M10 draw bar made and also a brass "T" nut that fits into the end of the lathe spindle for securing the MT2 ER32 collet chuck, and assembled into the spindle. I also found and used one of those foam rings that you find on packs of CD/DVD discs, over the chuck arbour before putting it in the lathe spindle, it seals the gap nicely.

    Anyway I found the time to take some pictures of it this morning prior to starting another little job.

    13-01-2019-009.jpg 13-01-2019-010.jpg
    You can see the foam ring between the chuck and the nose protector.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    On the Bellarine
    Posts
    167

    Default

    NIce job John...........how's the run out on the spindle under load with the foam spacer?...........I'd be a bit wary of anything soft like the foam to get a proper seal for concentricity.....but them I'm sure you'd be aware of that ...looks neat.......Lee

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default

    Hi Lee,

    The foam ring just sits between the face of the lathe spindle and the back of the collet chuck. There is very little pressure applied to alter the run out.

    I've not been able to detect any run out on the tapered part of the collet seat, just noise as you rotate the chuck. I've just about completed a job that required a 5 - 6 mm collet and on first try had about 4 thou run out 12 mm from the collet face. After removing the collet and carefully inspecting it, I found that it had some bits of swarf between the slots and a small harrage on one of the slots inside the bore. I ended up using a Stanley knife blade and a 6 mm diameter drill shaft to remove it. Remeasuring with a 6 mm dowel pin showed between 0.002 mm and 0.003 mm an inch from the collet face. I did find that the run out varied a little, the more I tightened the retaining nut. It behaved exactly the same with a bearing collet nut.

    In general doing the above confirms my belief that people get poor run out readings without bothering to check if the collet is actually clean and burr free. All the collets that I have checked had swarf and burrs in them. All the swarf could be cleared with a Stanley knife blade.
    13-01-2019-011.JPG
    This is a short length of aluminium rod that I am about to cut to length.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    On the Bellarine
    Posts
    167

    Default

    Sounds like the been knees then and you've overcome your problems which is what it's all about - well done....from experience I know that quite a lot of run out with ER chucks and collets is caused by the poor manufacturing process of them, especially those cheaper versions made in Asia.....generally the cheaper the set, the more quality control issues crop up....most of us are on budgets as we get older and wiser and more contrary too hehe , so we tend to get what we can afford and try to work around the issues......but a good set of collets should be the exception for anyone who uses them.

    I've frustratingly found that the ER holders themselves are generally the cause of most run out problems - usually through incorrect taper, badly cut threads, poorly ground interior, non center cut throats and misaligned draw bar fitting to pull them off center........all types of manufacturing issues that should not happen but I suppose that's why they are cheaper than known quality brands.

    If you have the confidence, make your own holders: better than trying to repair a bad one....plus you can make then purpose built such as face plate mounted for through bores to hold long work pieces......that way there's no more draw bars, no concern for length of material and accurate repeatability - just change a face plate with it mounted on and away you go, so much easier....I no longer use commercial made holders for that very reason......

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default

    Good Morning Lee,

    I must have been lucky with my collet holders, the only complaint that I would have about the four that I own is that the three larger ones seem to have quite a rough finish on the internal taper. Evidenced by the amount of noise (flickering of the gauge needle) when trying to measure them. I really don't know if that is intentional or not ! Maybe for oil retention, even using a paper wipe it is quite hard to get them dry.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    5,942

    Default

    If it has a rough finish on the inside, couldn't you grind it smooth, with a TP Grinder??
    I made a collet chuck for a 7X12 lathe, that came out pretty well spot on, my first go at making something besides a heap of metal shavings.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default

    Hi Kryn,

    I have a new backplate that screws onto the lathe spindle ! I've thought about making an ER32 collet holder to fit it. It is certainly doable. Now whether I can get the taper angles right is another matter. Come to think about it I've got a thick cast iron disc that might have enough meat to make the threaded part with the taper in it.

    Watch this space, another project brewing.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    5,942

    Default

    Hi BJ, How I set my taper up, was to put a piece of bar into the chuck, slide on the collet of the correct size, then adjust the compound around till everything lines up with the collet. A dial indicator works best, for setting the angle.
    I actually made a taper turning attachment previously, which helps if you're doing a long taper.
    I can't find the article I wrote about it, unfortunately, but here's the finished article.
    //metalworkforums.com/f65/t121056-project/page-91 posts 1363 and 1364
    I found the nuts vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, so make sure that you don't have several different ones that you want to use.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default

    Good Morning Kryn,

    That is a good idea, I was trying to work out how to get the angles right, last night after I had replied to you.
    I'll go and have a look at the posts you referred to.

    Thanks:
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

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