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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Gippsland Victoria
    Posts
    733

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    Video Link again might be of some use to you.

    Dont know what went wrong first time.



    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J1RFTRzuAcU

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Townsville
    Posts
    2

    Default

    Thanks so much for all these very helpful replies.

    For the very thin work, I think I'll try turning it down to about 3mm wall thickness on the wood lathe first, then try using the same mandrel and live centre from the wood lathe in the metal lathe. If the inside out pressure of my conical mandrel and live centre splits the work piece, the collet chuck looks like a very interesting possibility.

    Great video on making that little Delrin tube Steamingbill! Surprising technique to take off all the material at once! Not sure how that will translate to wood, but I'm doing stuff at least 8-10 times thicker than that. Will be interesting to experiment with taking big bites. Interesting grind on the HSS toolbit. I was thinking about grinding my HSS bits like a wood lathe beading & parting tool (v shape), but sharpening the side edge of the tool like this looks effective. Also very interesting is your spindle gouge like curved grind Phaser - thanks.

    I've noted the different advice on rpm - "start slow" and "3000 rpm". I think I might split the difference and start about 1500, knowing that the way to go from there is up.

    Thanks Grahame (and others) for the welcome and encouragement, and for the advice on sharpening. I have a 200mm slow speed grinder and some diamond paddles that I use for my wood lathe tools. The metal lathe takes 8mm tools and the lathe shop sold me some 8mm HSS bits, and told me I can put them straight in without a holder.

    For the instrument-specific design stuff I frequent the Chiff and Fipple forum - the guys there are very helpful. The questions I've asked here are just for the metal lathe specific techniques, which you've abundantly helped with. Many thanks - now I've just got to play around a bit!


  3. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada
    Posts
    292

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    ER40 could be hard to find with only an MT1 bore. Might be possible with a collet chuck block?
    While he won't be able to put much through the bore of the headstock the ER40chuck would replace the 3 or 4 jaw chuck by removing the three bolts. The limit is the flange diameter of the shaft that they bolt too. He could turn his own adaptor for the 4" chuck if the headstock is 3". The collet block is a good idea and cheaper although the work would be held father out from the headstock.

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