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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    645

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jack620 View Post
    Craig,
    I use this stuff in my mist system:

    https://koolmist.com/formula-77-for-tougher-service
    Do you have a local source for this?

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    melbourne australia
    Posts
    3,228

    Default

    No, sorry. I bought it on a trip to the US. Now that Amazon has decided to ship to Oz you might be able to get it.
    Chris

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Australia east coast
    Age
    71
    Posts
    2,713

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Onslo_tas View Post
    Thanks BobL. My immediate thought on mist system is any OHS issue with mist inhalation. I will check it out though. It would be nice to keep this machine nice and clean and rust free for the next owner when I expire. I am sure it will be going for many years after me if I and the next owners treat it as well as the past owners.
    I've had mine since 1999 and it's not in quite as clean condition as yours but pretty close. I'm the 3rd owner; the first one built a live steam loco in his retirement. The 2nd got divorced......

    There's more staining on the ways of mine from long-term storage and slathering with oil than anything else. Never been a trace of rust anywhere - I do go through quite a lot of paper towels keeping it clean though.

    To be honest I don't use it a lot as I have a Colchester Chipmaster that masses 2X as much, has a lot more HP and variable speed. Plus the ergonomics are better IMO. But it's really nice having a metric lathe when I need one or can't be bothered tearing the collet chuck off the Chipmaster. I keep the Emco 4 jaw mounted on the Maximat. One day I'll fit an ER-40 collet chuck to it.

    As I said I rarely use coolant - spray bottle when drilling deep holes is usually all. I use straight cutting oil when thread cutting with HSS. The rest of the time I generally use carbide insert tools dry. But keep in mind I do a lot of work with stainless and that stuff work-hardens so carbide, driven hard enough to chip-break, gives a lot better surface finish. If I was using HSS I'd have to slow down a lot and use coolant.

    PDW

  4. #19
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Tasmania
    Posts
    50

    Default

    Thanks for that PDW.
    I am interested to learn which oils are best to protect with but are not likely to stain or react with the paint. Im a bit anal about originality with everything and whilst I like seeing gear overhauled and repainted I value tidy original even more.
    I am pumping oil through the oil nipples to flush out any grease. The saddle looks like it must include several oil ways to get all the places lubed. I am not sure if I should strip it or maybe pump kero through then oil?
    I have to learn a lot about machining stainless, I recall years ago as an apprentice how tricky it can be and my first job is a coffee tamper which I will make out of SS so better get reading.

    Thanks for the wonderful assistance.

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