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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,651

    Default Porta-power for general pressing and bearing removal/fitment etc

    Anyone use porta-power style hydraulic gear around the workshop?

    I've got a small press but on various vehicles over the years I've found that there's always a job where a generic hydraulic power source would have been great - for things that have to be done on the vehicle or where the item won't fit in the press.

    Current job is front ball joint replacement on my wife's Landrover. I reckon with a porta-power, one of the low profile cylinders and a couple of bits of scrap I'd already be done and having a beer rather than still messing around with mechanical pullers. I'm expecting a bit of large hammer and gas torch action even with the porta-power.

    If you do use one, are there a particular cylinder styles/sizes that are more useful than others for general automotive applications. I'm thinking along the lines of one of the internal/external threaded ones (maybe around 200mm closed length), and a low profile one.

    Steve

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    South of Adelaide
    Posts
    1,225

    Default

    I have a 20T 6" stroke enerpac cylinder at home and i haven't found a job it couldn't do. I have also made numerous attachments that screw on the end of it. I use gear up to 60T at work but i doubt your rebuilding rock crushers at home.
    I would steer clear of the cheap 10t sets that are all over the place, i have found the break really easily.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
    Age
    59
    Posts
    6,541

    Default

    I have a 10T enerpac (with frame) and use it for all sorts too. I use it for broaches as well as pressing bearings and bending bar stock as well as other things.

    Michael

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Malvern East
    Posts
    84

    Default

    I have a 5 tonne porta power and a 10 tonne panel beating set (machinery house) which i built a press for use in straightening fork tubes etc can't be without it (on sale this weekend for $198) i love the pull cylinders and have that set as well for a home workshop 10/10.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    69

    Default

    I’ve got a few different options in the shed. Have a 20t enerpac and frame as well as a 10t 50mm high 10mm stroke cylinder for jacking machines when needed.
    I have a Sykes pickavant hydraulic puller too for bearings an pulleys and it is pretty amazing.
    For ball joints and tie rods it’s pretty hard to beat the 2 big hammers method. It’s yet to fail me and I’ve cracked some old ones apart. Heat only kills the boot and most mechanical pullers either break or still ruin the boot

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,651

    Default

    Agree with the 2 hammers - for separating the tapers. I've also got an old aircraft rover gun ie long stroke air hammer and 200x5x6 block of tungsten that weighs about 10kg. Combo of the rivet gun with the dense backing bar does the same as the 2 hammers but leaves more knuckle skin

    Getting balljoints out after they've been split is the bit I struggle with.

    Last night with dodgy method
    IMG_4881 (Medium).JPG

    Tonight was successful with a new tool, large bar and a minor heat.
    IMG_4885 (Medium).JPG

    Grrrr - damn photos are sideways and I can't get them rotated. On the PC as Tapatalk doesn't want to upload them at all

    Steve

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,440

    Default

    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    4,779

    Default

    Geez, don't post photos sideways on this forum! I have been in big trouble for this crime in the past!

    Crucifixion for first offence. Baron saved you'e bacon on this occasion. +1 for the two hammer method.

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
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    2,651

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by simonl View Post
    Geez, don't post photos sideways on this forum! I have been in big trouble for this crime in the past!

    Crucifixion for first offence. Baron saved you'e bacon on this occasion. +1 for the two hammer method.

    Simon
    No worries Simon. There's still the nail holes from my first offense so it was easier this time
    Thanks Baron!!!

    Not sure whether I've copped a dodgy update of Tapatalk on my iPhone, but it won't let me upload photos at all. Normally on the PC I can just rotate the image, save it, then rotate back again and save and its all good when I upload. Didn't play this time. Damn technology - tempted to take a hammer to it....

    Steve

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Frankston south
    Posts
    102

    Default

    Slightly off topic, but what style Landrover is it, I'm not familiar with the type in your pictures?

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,651

    Default

    It's a 2003 Discovery 2.
    Doing swivel bearings on the Defender style front axles is much easier!

    Steve

  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    5,945

    Default

    It's a model with independent susspension, hence the photos of ball joints. As Steve said, doing swivel bearings on a solid axle is much easier.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
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    57
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    2,651

    Default

    Actually its still solid axle Kryn. Just has an swivel arm with exposed CV and balljoints compared to the the large swivel ball of the early ones and Defenders. The discovery didn't go to independent front end until around 2005 with the Disco 3.

    There's definitely no way you're changing one of these ball joints on the side of the road somewhere remote, where's I'd be quite comfortable doing the old type.

    Steve

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
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    2,651

    Default

    Back on topic, any chance of model numbers of the 10T and 20T rams you guys are using at home?
    There's lots of different models and brands around. The genuine Enerpac ones I've seen I'd nearly have to sell a kidney to buy. They also seem to be physically quite large apart from the low profile short stroke ones like this: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ENERPAC-...IQU:rk:11:pf:0

    Steve

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    1,105

    Default

    RC106 is an Enerpac part number it is 10 ton and gives you 6" of stroke and is single acting.

    There are a heap of different ones that are equivalent to the Enerpac, the stuff you get from china aka hares and forbes style are not, the attachments are not compatible and the fittings are different. If it is only for occasional use one of the cheaper kits might suit you fine.

    Other brands you could check out that are similar but cheaper are Power team, Dura Pac, Simplex, Richmon, Fleet Hydrol.

    Also some of the cylinders use metric threads and some imperial for the attachments.

    The low profile ones you only use as required (clearance), otherwise they are pretty much useless for most applications but still handy to have around.

    Then you need to decide on what pump you want to use. Hand, air/hydraulic, electric, cordless, combustion etc

    Valving?

    Lots of options.

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