Page 7 of 12 FirstFirst ... 23456789101112 LastLast
Results 91 to 105 of 174
  1. #91
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    7,182

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jack620 View Post
    I'm still mulling over the longer jack screw Bob. I figure I can just slip a piece of stock in between the jaws and use the 50mm bolt to take up the difference. Would save a lot of winding.
    Yep - good idea. I sometimes do that even with the longer jack screw

    Another method I've seen for holding small pieces is to bolt a small milling vice to a piece of plate. The plate gets held in the saw vice and the workpiece in the milling vice. I have a little Myford vice I might press into action.
    Also a good idea.
    I find I'm cutting most short/small stuff like bolts and fasteners with my thin kerf cutoff saw. It's also handy for ripping long bits of material..

    Do you find your saw's vice jaw kicks back and out of parallel when tightened?
    I assume you mean in the vertical direction?
    If so, provided I keep the front jaw bolt firm it doesn't really kick back.

  2. #92
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    melbourne australia
    Posts
    3,228

    Default

    Found a pic of a milling vice accessory.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Chris

  3. #93
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    7,182

    Default

    This is where a hydraulic damper comes in handy so that when the cut is complete the saws main arm and blade just doesn't drop after breaking through the cut.

  4. #94
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Mackay North Qld
    Posts
    6,446

    Default

    Some bandsaw mods I can recommend are

    Replace the nut and bolt adjustment with threaded knobs.

    Every now and again the big green shop has Tri knobs which can be adapted to whatever thread that is relevant. Without looking I think most of the were M10.

    To be able to loosen and tighten adjustments without tools is a big time saver.

    The other is permamently fixed cutting table used in the blade vertical position.



    Grahame

    Bandsaw Mods.jpg
    Ok! This oder pic shows Tri Knobs, swarf pan,swarf gutters cutting deck and mount for still not completed damper cylinder.
    Also cut off switch adjustment


    cutting deck blade down.jpg
    Cutting deck ,cut so,to fit into saw frame to allow permanent mounting.
    Last edited by Grahame Collins; 24th Nov 2018 at 10:45 AM. Reason: added a photo

  5. #95
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    5,942

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jack620 View Post
    Another method I've seen for holding small pieces is to bolt a small milling vice to a piece of plate. The plate gets held in the saw vice and the workpiece in the milling vice. I have a little Myford vice I might press into action.
    I've started to make a threaded plate that gets clamped in the BS vise, allowing odd shapes and short stock to be clamped to it. Something similar to this example.Threaded clamp plate.jpg
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  6. #96
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Ipswich QLD
    Age
    68
    Posts
    1,996

    Default

    This is an amazing thread some excellent tips.
    Bob that is over engineering to the max but I like it

  7. #97
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Mackay North Qld
    Posts
    6,446

    Default

    If you have tried to adjust the blade guides you will know how awkward it can be using the fitted hex head bolts.

    Replacing those bolts with cap head sockets enables the use of a hex head driver (allen key). Not that you need to adjust the guides all that often but when you do, the process is suddenly that much easier.

    Grahame
    Last edited by Grahame Collins; 25th Nov 2018 at 10:26 AM. Reason: punctuation

  8. #98
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    melbourne australia
    Posts
    3,228

    Default

    I made a bolt cutting jig. I drilled and tapped a piece of 10mm MS plate with a selection of metric and imperial threads. I then welded that to a piece of 8mm plate to make an angle (I didn't have any angle and I need the welding practice). There are a few pilot-drilled spare holes too.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Chris

  9. #99
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Mackay North Qld
    Posts
    6,446

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by marktwane View Post
    When I bought mine I also bought a couple of bimetal blades, they lasted about 2 or 3 cuts each before there weren't enough teeth left to cut anything.. Problem was most of my cutting is very thin m material, 1.5MM wall tubes and so on. Even with 18tip blades there weren't enough teeth left in the one wall to prevent the teeth from shearing of so I reverted to the cheaper variety. I do go through a few more than I'd like but last much longer than the bimetals. The trick of course is to select the tooth count for the material being cut but being a lazy bugger I just leave the 18tpi carbons on for everything and use plenty of coolant. Thick material may take some time to get through but that is the beauty of the bandsaw, whilst it's doing its job I can do something else.
    I use mine on 1.6mm to 2.4 wall thicknesses mostly and run a bi- metal variable pitch 24 tooth blade.
    It is used several times a week and I have 18 months off the one blade.
    If you don't run them in you will wreck them straight away.

    I get mine from United products in Southport.

    Grahame

  10. #100
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    7,182

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by marktwane View Post
    When I bought mine I also bought a couple of bimetal blades, they lasted about 2 or 3 cuts each before there weren't enough teeth left to cut anything.. Problem was most of my cutting is very thin m material, 1.5MM wall tubes and so on. Even with 18tip blades there weren't enough teeth left in the one wall to prevent the teeth from shearing of so I reverted to the cheaper variety. I do go through a few more than I'd like but last much longer than the bimetals. The trick of course is to select the tooth count for the material being cut but being a lazy bugger I just leave the 18tpi carbons on for everything and use plenty of coolant. Thick material may take some time to get through but that is the beauty of the bandsaw, whilst it's doing its job I can do something else.
    After I installed a hydraulically damper to control the drop rate of the blade I noticed I could easily cut thin tubing with a 10-14 TPI blade without breaking any teeth. I attribute this to the spring on those saws that controls the down force simply not being able to reduce the down force enough for thin stock. This causes the blade/teeth to get caught and jump up and down and eventually they break off. It takes a bit of practice to get the optimum hydraulic drop rate but once I found it I found I could reuse that setting and get reproducible results.

  11. #101
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    blackburn vic
    Posts
    297

    Default

    Cutting thin material I use a piece of hardwood clamped to the material.

    Roger

  12. #102
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    melbourne australia
    Posts
    3,228

    Default

    How do these blades cope with HT bolts?
    Chris

  13. #103
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Age
    56
    Posts
    1,416

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jack620 View Post
    How do these blades cope with HT bolts?
    Standard starrett blades go straight through them dry or using coolant.
    Using Tapatalk

  14. #104
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Mackay North Qld
    Posts
    6,446

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by marktwane View Post
    When I bought mine I also bought a couple of bimetal blades, they lasted about 2 or 3 cuts each before there weren't enough teeth left to cut anything.. Problem was most of my cutting is very thin m material, 1.5MM wall tubes and so on. Even with 18tip blades there weren't enough teeth left in the one wall to prevent the teeth from shearing of so I reverted to the cheaper variety. I do go through a few more than I'd like but last much longer than the bimetals. The trick of course is to select the tooth count for the material being cut but being a lazy bugger I just leave the 18tpi carbons on for everything and use plenty of coolant. Thick material may take some time to get through but that is the beauty of the bandsaw, whilst it's doing its job I can do something else.

    You are right Mark,
    At 18 TPI cutting a 1.5mm wall thickness gives an average tooth engagement of 1.4.Not even close to the 3 tooth engagement recommended. However tooth engagement is not the entire story.

    Harmonic Vibration, constant pitch, wrong speed and too much down pressure can provide conditions conducive to ripping the teeth off any blade carbon or bi metal.

    I would point out that variable pitch blades can make a hell of a difference in thin wall materials.

    <quote - A variable-pitch saw blade, with teeth that vary in gullet depth, set angle and pitch, can greatly reduce harmonic vibrations. With varying tooth space, sawing rhythms are interrupted, chip evacuation is improved, and vibration is reduced, resulting in less noise and a better overall cut.>



    Even so the rest of your bandsaw has to be up to scratch .I mean, it does have to be set to cut square in both planes, run at the approximate correct speed,ie FPM for that particular steel and the down force setting minimised and coolant running to flush chips.

    here is the link to where I sourced most of this info.
    https://bandsawblog.com/variable-pitch-bandsaw-blades/

    Following those settings I believe is why I could get the results of the knifemakers stiddy cut from cane tram rail iron-see it in above posts and using a fine tooth blade as well.

    Grahame

  15. #105
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Ballina N.S.W.
    Posts
    644

    Default

    Hi All,
    A couple of months ago I read BobL post on the recommended Band Saw speed and feed rates and it jogged my memory of a modification that I had years earlier intended to make to my saw as I had moved over to using only bi metal blades and I knew my saw's pulley set up was way too slow, thanks Bob for the memory jog. After looking at and measuring all the pulley diameters and a bit of calculator work I did the following. Removed both pulleys and swapped their positions around and to have them fit their new shaft locations you have to bore one out and bore and bush the other as the shafts are different diameters. When re assembling you have to fit the gearbox pulley inverted. Once this is completed my calculations show I can now achieve surface feet per minute of 251,177,103. The 251 is much closer to the recommended speed. I have only used the new saw set up on a couple of small jobs and it sure is quicker and the extra speed will help enable straighter cuts. I all ways have a good oil supply on the cut to handle any temperature increase.
    Bob
    Attached Images Attached Images

Similar Threads

  1. Power Hacksaws V's Bandsaws
    By simonl in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 342
    Last Post: 9th Jun 2019, 09:18 PM
  2. Metal Bandsaws.
    By wm460 in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 28
    Last Post: 8th Jul 2015, 10:23 PM
  3. thoughts on bandsaws
    By texx in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 5th May 2015, 02:33 PM
  4. Something to check for on small bandsaws
    By Michael G in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 16
    Last Post: 25th Dec 2013, 06:06 PM
  5. Metal Cutting Bandsaws
    By silash77 in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 7th Jun 2009, 02:55 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •