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  1. #16
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    Dec 2013
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    You can always cut bigger stuff with a higher TPI - it will just be slower, but cutting thinner stuff with lower TPI can damage the blade.
    You nominally need at least 3 teeth in the cut at all times.

    I use a bimetal variable pitch (10-14 TPI) for most things even 50 mm stock.
    I have got a 6 TPI blade I use sometime on thicker stock but have used it about 3 times in two years.

    I find using coolant/lube really prolongs the blade life.
    I estimate 5 to 10 times longer with coolant. Seems to cut slower for some reason but lasts so much longer.
    Using Tapatalk

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    melbourne australia
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    John,
    thanks for the link. I'll give them a call tomorrow.

    Bob,
    I had a look at your posts in Your Latest Project. I like the spring tensioning button. I'll make one. Re the 10mm wide bearings- what was it you turned up? The axles the bearings run on? And what did you mean by straight and offset?
    Chris

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Ballina N.S.W.
    Posts
    644

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    Chris,
    Yes if you want to fit 10mm wide bearings you will have to make new axles to suit, they need to be 2mm longer on the section that the bearing fits onto. The axles are in pairs one in each set is a plain one ie the bearing face is concentric with threaded section and the other one has the bearing holding section offset to the rest of the axle ie it acts like a cam.Your saw is fitted up like this as well, this is how you adjust the blade/ bearing clearance.
    Bob

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Mackay North Qld
    Posts
    6,446

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    Hi Chris,

    Did you run the blade in? This is essential to the longevity of the blade.
    All good suppliers will have instructions on how to do this.

    Bob is right on it in the above post when he speaks of controlling the down feed. I can't speak for a BS5As of course, but the BS4A spring needs to be slacked off for a few cuts..
    The square to vertical of blade to base needs to be checked /adjusted as well as that of the square to rear of vice jaw.

    Grahame

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    melbourne australia
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    3,228

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    Bob,
    thanks for clarifying.

    Grahame,
    I didn't do anything special to the blade. I'll lighten up the pressure on the blade for the next few cuts. I will certainly run-in my bimetal blade when I get one.

    Do you guys change the belt setting for various materials, or just stick with one speed? If one speed, which one?
    Chris

  6. #21
    BobL is online now Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Feb 2006
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    Perth
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    Quote Originally Posted by jack620 View Post
    Do you guys change the belt setting for various materials, or just stick with one speed? If one speed, which one?
    You should use lower speeds for SS and harder materials.
    eg https://www.sawblade.com/band-saw-bl...feed-chart.cfm
    I forgot to do that once and completely stuffed a blade.

    If you regularly cut a wide range of materials and want to leave it on one speed then leave it on the slowest or second slowest.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    melbourne australia
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    OK. Mine's 3 speed, so I'll leave it on the slowest. I'm not in a hurry.
    Chris

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Mackay North Qld
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    6,446

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    Chris,

    Do have a look at this Grizzly tools manual for the near equivalent bandsaw. https://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/g9742_m.pdf

    While it is not exactly the same specs it is close enough to be useful. Much better than the crappy manual that usually comes withe the saws.

    There are some very helpful entries on blade types, pitches and FPM feet per minute tables relative to different metals.

    I downloaded the one similar to my BS4A and laminated the sheets and had a spiral bound booklet made so the pages can be wiped after ya get em dirty.

    Grahame

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    melbourne australia
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    3,228

    Default Horizontal Bandsaws

    Thanks Grahame, that’s a much better manual. I found the equivalent Jet manual, but the grizzly one is better.

    I fitted some wheels to the stand today and had a play with the saw. Very happy with it. There’s a bit of swarf falling from the blade at the top. The red arrow shows where it’s coming from.

    I reckon it could do with some brushes to remove the swarf from the blade before it enters the wheel housing. The green arrow indicates a possible location. Anyone added brushes to their saw?

    Chris

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
    Posts
    2,129

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    Quote Originally Posted by jack620 View Post
    Anyone added brushes to their saw?
    I have small lengths of wiper blades in front of the brgs as the coolant was flinging off the blade at the back of the saw onto the floor and fitted a folding wire brush to flick the cuttings off behind the brgs.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  11. #26
    BobL is online now Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Perth
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    When I fitted coolant/lube I added 2 points before the blade enters the work and 2 after to wash the swarf off the blade - like this.

    IMG_2978.jpg

    For the flinging/dribbling of coolant off the back (an lots of other parts) of the of the saw onto the floor I added a SS tray.
    IMG_6158.jpg

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Mackay North Qld
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    6,446

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    Hi chris,
    I have done that with a 25mm x 6mm (roughly)mounted rotary wire brush,The shaft is 6mm and was fitted with some 6mm bearings .I bored out some 16mm square CRS and mounted it between the bottom guide and the pulley wheel.

    I can't send a pic at the moment as I had it off the other day. I put it down and can't find it. Mine was situated so the swarf drops into a stainless gutter fitted to the side. Dunno if it would work with yours as the layout is a bit different.

    Cheers
    Grahame

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Perth, Western Australia
    Age
    67
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    362

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    Pic from hare and forbes site, is on the BS-7DS.
    I am going to fit a similar wheel to my old Herless 7"(now called BS-7L) to replace the old worn out fixed brush.


    4_Hydraulic-Ram-Down-Feed-Control.jpg

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Perth, Western Australia
    Age
    67
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    362

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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    When I fitted coolant/lube I added 2 points before the blade enters the work and 2 after to wash the swarf off the blade - like this.

    IMG_2978.jpg

    For the flinging/dribbling of coolant off the back (an lots of other parts) of the of the saw onto the floor I added a SS tray.
    IMG_6158.jpg
    I run coolant all the time from the original single point. The second point after the cut is something I have always thought of fitting.Now that I have broken a blade it will be fitted along with the wheel.

    I can`t complain about the broken blade, though annoying, its given 15 years of service through my constant abuse.

  15. #30
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    Nov 2007
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    melbourne australia
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    Thanks gents. Some good ideas there. I'll see if I can incorporate one or more of those into my machine. I also need some sort of swarf gutter/tray, as the swarf spills onto and around the pivot section of the saw making it difficult to clean up. A magnetically attached tray might work.
    Chris

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