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Thread: Horizontal Bandsaws
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23rd Nov 2018, 05:56 PM #91Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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Yep - good idea. I sometimes do that even with the longer jack screw
Another method I've seen for holding small pieces is to bolt a small milling vice to a piece of plate. The plate gets held in the saw vice and the workpiece in the milling vice. I have a little Myford vice I might press into action.
I find I'm cutting most short/small stuff like bolts and fasteners with my thin kerf cutoff saw. It's also handy for ripping long bits of material..
Do you find your saw's vice jaw kicks back and out of parallel when tightened?
If so, provided I keep the front jaw bolt firm it doesn't really kick back.
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23rd Nov 2018, 05:59 PM #92Most Valued Member
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Found a pic of a milling vice accessory.
Chris
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23rd Nov 2018, 06:23 PM #93Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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This is where a hydraulic damper comes in handy so that when the cut is complete the saws main arm and blade just doesn't drop after breaking through the cut.
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23rd Nov 2018, 08:07 PM #94
Some bandsaw mods I can recommend are
Replace the nut and bolt adjustment with threaded knobs.
Every now and again the big green shop has Tri knobs which can be adapted to whatever thread that is relevant. Without looking I think most of the were M10.
To be able to loosen and tighten adjustments without tools is a big time saver.
The other is permamently fixed cutting table used in the blade vertical position.
Grahame
Bandsaw Mods.jpg
Ok! This oder pic shows Tri Knobs, swarf pan,swarf gutters cutting deck and mount for still not completed damper cylinder.
Also cut off switch adjustment
cutting deck blade down.jpg
Cutting deck ,cut so,to fit into saw frame to allow permanent mounting.Last edited by Grahame Collins; 24th Nov 2018 at 10:45 AM. Reason: added a photo
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24th Nov 2018, 12:15 AM #95Most Valued Member
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I've started to make a threaded plate that gets clamped in the BS vise, allowing odd shapes and short stock to be clamped to it. Something similar to this example.Threaded clamp plate.jpg
KrynTo grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
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25th Nov 2018, 09:08 AM #96
This is an amazing thread some excellent tips.
Bob that is over engineering to the max but I like it
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25th Nov 2018, 10:23 AM #97
If you have tried to adjust the blade guides you will know how awkward it can be using the fitted hex head bolts.
Replacing those bolts with cap head sockets enables the use of a hex head driver (allen key). Not that you need to adjust the guides all that often but when you do, the process is suddenly that much easier.
GrahameLast edited by Grahame Collins; 25th Nov 2018 at 10:26 AM. Reason: punctuation
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4th Dec 2018, 11:47 AM #98Most Valued Member
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I made a bolt cutting jig. I drilled and tapped a piece of 10mm MS plate with a selection of metric and imperial threads. I then welded that to a piece of 8mm plate to make an angle (I didn't have any angle and I need the welding practice). There are a few pilot-drilled spare holes too.
Chris
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4th Dec 2018, 10:07 PM #99
I use mine on 1.6mm to 2.4 wall thicknesses mostly and run a bi- metal variable pitch 24 tooth blade.
It is used several times a week and I have 18 months off the one blade.
If you don't run them in you will wreck them straight away.
I get mine from United products in Southport.
Grahame
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4th Dec 2018, 10:23 PM #100Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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After I installed a hydraulically damper to control the drop rate of the blade I noticed I could easily cut thin tubing with a 10-14 TPI blade without breaking any teeth. I attribute this to the spring on those saws that controls the down force simply not being able to reduce the down force enough for thin stock. This causes the blade/teeth to get caught and jump up and down and eventually they break off. It takes a bit of practice to get the optimum hydraulic drop rate but once I found it I found I could reuse that setting and get reproducible results.
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4th Dec 2018, 11:30 PM #101Senior Member
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Cutting thin material I use a piece of hardwood clamped to the material.
Roger
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5th Dec 2018, 08:27 AM #102Most Valued Member
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How do these blades cope with HT bolts?
Chris
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5th Dec 2018, 08:36 AM #103
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5th Dec 2018, 10:20 AM #104
You are right Mark,
At 18 TPI cutting a 1.5mm wall thickness gives an average tooth engagement of 1.4.Not even close to the 3 tooth engagement recommended. However tooth engagement is not the entire story.
Harmonic Vibration, constant pitch, wrong speed and too much down pressure can provide conditions conducive to ripping the teeth off any blade carbon or bi metal.
I would point out that variable pitch blades can make a hell of a difference in thin wall materials.
<quote - A variable-pitch saw blade, with teeth that vary in gullet depth, set angle and pitch, can greatly reduce harmonic vibrations. With varying tooth space, sawing rhythms are interrupted, chip evacuation is improved, and vibration is reduced, resulting in less noise and a better overall cut.>
Even so the rest of your bandsaw has to be up to scratch .I mean, it does have to be set to cut square in both planes, run at the approximate correct speed,ie FPM for that particular steel and the down force setting minimised and coolant running to flush chips.
here is the link to where I sourced most of this info.
https://bandsawblog.com/variable-pitch-bandsaw-blades/
Following those settings I believe is why I could get the results of the knifemakers stiddy cut from cane tram rail iron-see it in above posts and using a fine tooth blade as well.
Grahame
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24th Jan 2019, 03:28 PM #105Golden Member
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Hi All,
A couple of months ago I read BobL post on the recommended Band Saw speed and feed rates and it jogged my memory of a modification that I had years earlier intended to make to my saw as I had moved over to using only bi metal blades and I knew my saw's pulley set up was way too slow, thanks Bob for the memory jog. After looking at and measuring all the pulley diameters and a bit of calculator work I did the following. Removed both pulleys and swapped their positions around and to have them fit their new shaft locations you have to bore one out and bore and bush the other as the shafts are different diameters. When re assembling you have to fit the gearbox pulley inverted. Once this is completed my calculations show I can now achieve surface feet per minute of 251,177,103. The 251 is much closer to the recommended speed. I have only used the new saw set up on a couple of small jobs and it sure is quicker and the extra speed will help enable straighter cuts. I all ways have a good oil supply on the cut to handle any temperature increase.
Bob
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