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  1. #16
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    Chris i have only changed those filters when changing oil/serving, i dont remember one ever being a problem due it it being blocked or restricted.
    I think there should be a fairly basic filter in the filler cap and that serves as the oil tank vent, so if the oil is dirty you should check that also.
    In my experience noisy pumps, low output power and/or hot oil is nearly always caused by air getting into system, even a very small leak on the suction can cause cavitation. So you need to check for airation in the oil after it has been running, the air bubles may be so fine that you can barely see them.
    If i was tasked with this job i would remove clean and loctite the oil fittings and replace the plastic suction hose with proper hydraulic suction hose with a spring around it and refit it with the proper hydraulic hose clamps, then see if the problem is solved, if it is not then you can concentrate your thoughts elsewhere as you will that the suction is done right and leak free.
    Cheers shed

  2. #17
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    Nov 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by simonl View Post
    Another test you can do before inspecting the filter is to run the engine BUT not touch the spool valve.
    I just did that. The oil temp peaked at 58C after 85 minutes of running at full revs with the spool valve in the centre position. Here's a plot of the temp rise:

    Screen Shot 2018-09-10 at 10.04.57 am.png

    So it peaked at 10C below the temp I measured after an hour of splitting hardwood logs (68C). It doesn't seem like the ram is the problem. I'm guessing an extra 10C for working under load for an hour is pretty reasonable?

    Quote Originally Posted by simonl View Post
    If you search on ebay for a spin on hydraulic filter assembly, you will find what i used.
    Something like this? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Hydrauli...wAAOSw3xJVWH53

    I can't see an obvious place to mount one. I would need to have the existing return line shortened and an additional hose made up too. Could get expensive.

    splitter.jpg
    Chris

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by shedhappens View Post
    So you need to check for airation in the oil after it has been running, the air bubles may be so fine that you can barely see them.

    If i was tasked with this job i would remove clean and loctite the oil fittings and replace the plastic suction hose with proper hydraulic suction hose with a spring around it and refit it with the proper hydraulic hose clamps, then see if the problem is solved, if it is not then you can concentrate your thoughts elsewhere as you will that the suction is done right and leak free.
    Thanks John,
    I wasn't aware the existing suction hose wasn't the real deal. I will get some proper hose and hose clamps. I'll also reseal all the oil fittings too. I've attached a pic of the suction hose tank fitting so everyone knows what we are talking about.

    Simon,
    can you suggest a place to get proper suction hose and clamps in our area?

    Cheers,
    Chris
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Chris

  4. #19
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    Aug 2011
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    Melbourne
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    Yea 58 degrees C stills seems too high. I live near Hastings and the local hydraulic supplier is called Davmill Hydraulics. Dave is good to deal with. His prices are not cheap though.

    The suction hose i bought from him is different to the wire re-enforced stuff that shed describes. Mine is a combination pressure/suction hose. Its thick rubber with wire impregnated. Good for suction and positive pressures to 200 psi. Ill take a pic of it.

    Simon

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  5. #20
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    Thanks Simon. I'll be in Hastings on Wed, so I'll drop in and see Dave.
    Chris

  6. #21
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    Chris I have a feeling that the fitting on the oil tank might have a nut on the inside of the circular plate and the filter screws on the end of that so i dont think you need to remove that fitting.
    The fitting on the pump may have teflon tape on it, when you use the loctite you only need to nip up the fitting.
    I was thinking back about those filters, the chinko's tend to change things and i have seen both wire screen and paper element type filters in them.
    So prolly not a good idea to undo that fitting on the tank as it might cause unnesesary work for you.
    Cheers, shed

  7. #22
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    Heres the suction hose i used.



    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
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  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by jack620 View Post
    I did about an hour of log splitting today. At the end of it I noticed the hydraulic ram, pump, hoses and oil tank were all quite hot. The ram was too hot to hold your hand on. I can't say I've ever checked them before, so I don't know if this is abnormal or not. I measured the temp of the hydraulic oil in the tank at 68C. Does that sound right?
    Sounds fine to me, 68 degrees is nothing in hydraulic oil terms, the over temp alarms on excavators usually kick in at around 90 or 95 degrees C. 40 degrees above ambient would be considered very normal and in no way are your temperatures excessive IMHO.

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Karl Robbers View Post
    Sounds fine to me, 68 degrees is nothing in hydraulic oil terms, the over temp alarms on excavators usually kick in at around 90 or 95 degrees C. 40 degrees above ambient would be considered very normal and in no way are your temperatures excessive IMHO.
    G/day Karl, I think you are right that it is not overly hot, normally these logsplitters don't get that hot that you can't put your hand on the cylinder and for this reason Chris is looking to see why.

    cheers, shed

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by shedhappens View Post
    Chris I have a feeling that the fitting on the oil tank might have a nut on the inside of the circular plate and the filter screws on the end of that so i dont think you need to remove that fitting.
    I'm not sure what you're getting at John. There is no other access to the tank other than the ¾ BSP filler plug. So I think the only way to access the tank filter would be to remove the round plate?
    Chris

  11. #26
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    Here's a pic.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Chris

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by jack620 View Post
    I'm not sure what you're getting at John. There is no other access to the tank other than the ¾ BSP filler plug. So I think the only way to access the tank filter would be to remove the round plate?
    Yeah i am not very good at splainin' things, i was thinking that as a process of elimination that you do the hose and fittings 1st and test for improvement or no improvement, if no improvement then move on to the oil filter.
    If/when you do the oil filter if you have a chain block and lift the drawbar up high you might be able remove the filter without draining the oil, if you do this you might have to drain the float bowl on the carb and best to remove the air filter.

    Quote Originally Posted by jack620 View Post
    Here's a pic.
    Thanks for the pic, that is different to what I have worked on or seen before so I don't know what you will find in there.

    You say that it has a "¾ BSP filler plug", they used to have a push on cap with a filter inside, does your ¾ BSP filler plug have a hole drilled in it to vent the oil tank? Could this be an entry point for debris?

    cheers, shed

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by shedhappens View Post
    If/when you do the oil filter if you have a chain block and lift the drawbar up high you might be able remove the filter without draining the oil, if you do this you might have to drain the float bowl on the carb and best to remove the air filter.
    Thanks. I have a chain block, so I'll keep that in mind.

    Quote Originally Posted by shedhappens View Post
    You say that it has a "¾ BSP filler plug", they used to have a push on cap with a filter inside, does your ¾ BSP filler plug have a hole drilled in it to vent the oil tank? Could this be an entry point for debris?
    Yes, it's a solid metal plug with a vent hole drilled in it. The hole is drilled through the side of one of the the spanner flats, so I don't think debris could get in there.
    Chris

  14. #29
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    Hi Jack,

    I agree with Shed when it comes to a process of elimination. Start with the easiest and cheapest items first. I would not be adding a spin on filter, certainly not at this stage. The heat buildup is a result of friction, somewhere. I'm no hydraulics expert but I would think that friction comes from either a restriction in flow. Heat buildup from restricted flow will increase with increased operating pressure, hence why in your second test it still got hot but not as hot as during use where pressure spikes are experienced.

    I didn't realise that air introduced into the pump would do a similar thing but like I said, I'm no expert. I would remove, clean and re-attach all the plumbing on the suction side of the pump as a start. As Shed mentioned, don't use teflon tape, use hydraulic sealant or other type of sealant/retaining fluid. It's only experiencing mild negative pressures on the inlet side, nothing like on the delivery side.

    Turning the splitter on it's side, to save having to drain the fluid from the resevoir sounds like the easiest method. I put a ball valve on the outlet of the resevoir of my splitter as it's not that easy to do that with mine.

    Keep us posted!

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

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