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10th Sep 2018, 09:31 AM #16Most Valued Member
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Chris i have only changed those filters when changing oil/serving, i dont remember one ever being a problem due it it being blocked or restricted.
I think there should be a fairly basic filter in the filler cap and that serves as the oil tank vent, so if the oil is dirty you should check that also.
In my experience noisy pumps, low output power and/or hot oil is nearly always caused by air getting into system, even a very small leak on the suction can cause cavitation. So you need to check for airation in the oil after it has been running, the air bubles may be so fine that you can barely see them.
If i was tasked with this job i would remove clean and loctite the oil fittings and replace the plastic suction hose with proper hydraulic suction hose with a spring around it and refit it with the proper hydraulic hose clamps, then see if the problem is solved, if it is not then you can concentrate your thoughts elsewhere as you will that the suction is done right and leak free.
Cheers shed
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10th Sep 2018, 11:18 AM #17Most Valued Member
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I just did that. The oil temp peaked at 58C after 85 minutes of running at full revs with the spool valve in the centre position. Here's a plot of the temp rise:
Screen Shot 2018-09-10 at 10.04.57 am.png
So it peaked at 10C below the temp I measured after an hour of splitting hardwood logs (68C). It doesn't seem like the ram is the problem. I'm guessing an extra 10C for working under load for an hour is pretty reasonable?
Something like this? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Hydrauli...wAAOSw3xJVWH53
I can't see an obvious place to mount one. I would need to have the existing return line shortened and an additional hose made up too. Could get expensive.
splitter.jpgChris
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10th Sep 2018, 11:24 AM #18Most Valued Member
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Thanks John,
I wasn't aware the existing suction hose wasn't the real deal. I will get some proper hose and hose clamps. I'll also reseal all the oil fittings too. I've attached a pic of the suction hose tank fitting so everyone knows what we are talking about.
Simon,
can you suggest a place to get proper suction hose and clamps in our area?
Cheers,
ChrisChris
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10th Sep 2018, 01:03 PM #19Most Valued Member
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- Melbourne
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Yea 58 degrees C stills seems too high. I live near Hastings and the local hydraulic supplier is called Davmill Hydraulics. Dave is good to deal with. His prices are not cheap though.
The suction hose i bought from him is different to the wire re-enforced stuff that shed describes. Mine is a combination pressure/suction hose. Its thick rubber with wire impregnated. Good for suction and positive pressures to 200 psi. Ill take a pic of it.
Simon
Sent from my SM-G900I using TapatalkGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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10th Sep 2018, 01:58 PM #20Most Valued Member
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Thanks Simon. I'll be in Hastings on Wed, so I'll drop in and see Dave.
Chris
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10th Sep 2018, 02:07 PM #21Most Valued Member
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Chris I have a feeling that the fitting on the oil tank might have a nut on the inside of the circular plate and the filter screws on the end of that so i dont think you need to remove that fitting.
The fitting on the pump may have teflon tape on it, when you use the loctite you only need to nip up the fitting.
I was thinking back about those filters, the chinko's tend to change things and i have seen both wire screen and paper element type filters in them.
So prolly not a good idea to undo that fitting on the tank as it might cause unnesesary work for you.
Cheers, shed
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10th Sep 2018, 03:36 PM #22Most Valued Member
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Heres the suction hose i used.
Sent from my SM-G900I using TapatalkGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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10th Sep 2018, 04:13 PM #23Most Valued Member
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10th Sep 2018, 04:25 PM #24Most Valued Member
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10th Sep 2018, 05:12 PM #25Most Valued Member
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10th Sep 2018, 05:21 PM #26Most Valued Member
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Here's a pic.
Chris
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10th Sep 2018, 09:08 PM #27Most Valued Member
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Yeah i am not very good at splainin' things, i was thinking that as a process of elimination that you do the hose and fittings 1st and test for improvement or no improvement, if no improvement then move on to the oil filter.
If/when you do the oil filter if you have a chain block and lift the drawbar up high you might be able remove the filter without draining the oil, if you do this you might have to drain the float bowl on the carb and best to remove the air filter.
Thanks for the pic, that is different to what I have worked on or seen before so I don't know what you will find in there.
You say that it has a "¾ BSP filler plug", they used to have a push on cap with a filter inside, does your ¾ BSP filler plug have a hole drilled in it to vent the oil tank? Could this be an entry point for debris?
cheers, shed
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10th Sep 2018, 10:05 PM #28Most Valued Member
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Chris
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11th Sep 2018, 08:34 AM #29Most Valued Member
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Hi Jack,
I agree with Shed when it comes to a process of elimination. Start with the easiest and cheapest items first. I would not be adding a spin on filter, certainly not at this stage. The heat buildup is a result of friction, somewhere. I'm no hydraulics expert but I would think that friction comes from either a restriction in flow. Heat buildup from restricted flow will increase with increased operating pressure, hence why in your second test it still got hot but not as hot as during use where pressure spikes are experienced.
I didn't realise that air introduced into the pump would do a similar thing but like I said, I'm no expert. I would remove, clean and re-attach all the plumbing on the suction side of the pump as a start. As Shed mentioned, don't use teflon tape, use hydraulic sealant or other type of sealant/retaining fluid. It's only experiencing mild negative pressures on the inlet side, nothing like on the delivery side.
Turning the splitter on it's side, to save having to drain the fluid from the resevoir sounds like the easiest method. I put a ball valve on the outlet of the resevoir of my splitter as it's not that easy to do that with mine.
Keep us posted!
SimonGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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