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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
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    perth
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    i use lpg due to the cost i always seem to have lots of slag is this due to the lpg?
    i think lpg is only 200 or 300 degrees cooler than acet

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
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    Brisbane, Northside
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    Let's see some pics of people cutting stainless etc with a oxy/acet/iron powder torch.... he he he

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
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    Minbun, FNQ, Australia
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    66
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snap-on View Post
    Let's see some pics of people cutting stainless etc with a oxy/acet/iron powder torch.... he he he
    You first.
    Cliff.
    ...if all you have is a hammer, everything looks like a nail...

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    Mackay North Qld
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    6,446

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    Quote Originally Posted by Snap-on View Post
    Let's see some pics of people cutting stainless etc with a oxy/acet/iron powder torch.... he he he
    The cutting hardware has all to one to the junkyard many moons ago my friend. Pictures are all you have left. I tried to find an illustration in my text books in vain.

    Why bother if you can now get a cheaper ,faster and cleaner plasma. Oxy acetylene/lpg has its place but not in this particular circumstance.

    Even I have been dragged kicking and screaming into the modern age.

    Grahame

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snap-on View Post
    Let's see some pics of people cutting stainless etc with a oxy/acet/iron powder torch.... he he he
    The cutting hardware has all to one to the junkyard many moons ago my friend. Pictures are all you have left. I tried to find an illustration in my text books in vain.

    Why bother if you can now get a cheaper ,faster and cleaner plasma. Oxy acetylene/lpg has its place but not in this particular circumstance.

    Even I have been dragged kicking and screaming into the modern age.

    Grahame

  6. #21
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Kuranda, paradise, North Qld
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    62
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    65

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    Quote Originally Posted by Grahame Collins View Post
    Before lighting your cutting torch for the first time in a session you are wise to check a few things first. Over the years I have got into a habit of doing a quick visual check over the connections followed by running my hands almost folded in a loose fist dragged over hoses and connections to check physically for gas leaks.

    I always check my cutting nozzle for cleanliness and if not satisfied clean it with the correct diameter cleaning wire.
    The tip here is to start with one obviously too large and use the one that fits as you work your way down. Incorrect undersize cleaning wires do damage to cutting nozzles by elongating the hole opening and destroying the shape of the jet of gas emitted. Dirty or damaged nozzles will not cut well.

    A word here about nozzle sizes. Cutting Nozzle jet holes are measured in millimetres and parts thereof. Designated sizes of 6, 8, 12 and 15 translate to .6mm, .8mm 1.2mm and 1.5mm. -.6mm will cut down to 3mm and 1.5mm will cut to 75mm thick steel.

    Steel is heated to an ignition point by the preheater flame and a jet of pure oxygen is directed at the preheated point. The result is that the steel ignites or burns.

    My comments here apply to a Comet 3 cutting head but most others are similar. Open the torch primary oxygen valve all of the way. This is the one closest to the hose. It supplies both the cutting stream oxygen and that for the pre heat flame.
    Open the acetylene valve about a third of a full turn and light the flame.

    The acetylene flame should be adjusted until the oily smoke dissipates and the flame becomes very bright. It should lift slightly off the nozzle opening. At this time gently open the oxygen pre heater valve closest to the nozzle. Your flame will form the neutral shape which is a number of cones which do the preheating.

    Adjustment of the preheater valve so that the cones form a soft rounded shape at the nozzle, will produce the ideal neutral setting required for cutting. The nozzle is held with a millimetre or two of gap under the flame tips. Heat the plate edge until it becomes an orange colour and fully depress the lever. A correct cutting speed will result in a stream of slag inclining in the direction of the cut accompanied by a tearing, ripping noise occurring on plates 10mm and up.

    To be continued

    Grahame

    Grahame,
    I know this thread is a few years old now, but any chance of posting some more info?

    Mick
    "If you need a machine today and don't buy it,

    tomorrow you will have paid for it and not have it."

    - Henry Ford 1938

  7. #22
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    Jan 2004
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    Mackay North Qld
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    Mick,

    What are you looking for specifically? Rather than be too general it much better to specify on what you wish to acheive,or if anybody who wants to make a post.

    Grahame

  8. #23
    Join Date
    May 2003
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    Kuranda, paradise, North Qld
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    Grahame,
    not exactly sure, but I spotted the post and noticed the "to be continued" without any further posts from you. Perhaps gas pressures would be helpful, plus a trouble shooting guide, ie if it looks like this you're doing this wrong etc.

    Mick
    "If you need a machine today and don't buy it,

    tomorrow you will have paid for it and not have it."

    - Henry Ford 1938

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
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    Bottom of the leg
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    82
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    25

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    if you're cutting thick plate warming the underside first, makes a big difference.

    If you have trouble getting started when cutting round bar, hold a thin piece of scrap to the side and you will find you can start you're cut much easier.

    and the most important thing is to hold the torch firmly,don't try to strangle it as this will only make your hands shake, relax it aint gonna bite.
    Cheers Fred



    The difference between light and hard is that you can sleep with the light on.
    http://www.redbubble.com/people/fredsmi ... t_creative"

    Updated 26 April 2010
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  10. #25
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    Mackay North Qld
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    Quote Originally Posted by journeyman Mick View Post
    noticed the "to be continued" without any further posts from you. Perhaps gas pressures would be helpful, plus a trouble shooting guide, ie if it looks like this you're doing this wrong etc.
    Mick
    Gday Mick
    A fresh thread is posted.
    I have been playing around trying to do a photographic thing, but the cant' get pics right at the flame.I don'tseem to have the right equipment.

    I would appreciate if any photographic tecchy type could clearly photograph the hand held torch head showing a macro shot neutral flame flame with the blue cones just above the plate surface.

    I have searched and Googled big time and can't find any illustrations to suit the power points



    Grahame

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Blue Mountains NSW Australia
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    408

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    My camera is at work, but I'll bring it home on Tuesday and do it, if no one else can do it sooner.

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Melton
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    Hi all ok who's got one of the Henrob 2000 torch (kits ) are they as go as they say ?

    Thanks Tony

  13. #28
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    Jan 2004
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    Quote Originally Posted by antoni View Post
    Hi all ok who's got one of the Henrob 2000 torch (kits ) are they as go as they say ?

    Thanks Tony
    Tony,

    We purchased one for school thinking that it would be easier for the students. Our experience is that the low pressure regulators required for effective use were extras.

    The vendors did not give support one could normally expect.The did not follow up on phone calls or emails very well at all and generally did not seem to be supportive of a customer who had spent a good deal of money with them.

    We had trouble matching thesupplied American Gas thread to to Australian code regulator. Our p/time teachers assistant whose other job is as a licensed repair man for Oxy Acetylene regulators and torches.
    Had it not been for him we would have not got the unit operating at all.
    Yes it will weld aluminium and so forth,but honestly A Tig does the job better.

    Four years down the track we are back to using the normal cutting torch and $600 wasted sits unused at the rear of a storeroom.

    Thats is our experience others may have fared better.The unit does not seem to be vigorously marketed here as I don't see mention of it too often.

    Grahame

  14. #29
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    Dec 2005
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    South Australia
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    Ditto!

  15. #30
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Perth
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    My BIL talks about a trick he does where he heats up the edge of plate and then pushes the oxygen cutting jet and starts cutting then he turns of the acetylene and keeps cutting - he says if you do it smoothly and slowly enough it will keep cutting! Apparently the heat of the burning metal is enough to keep heating the metal ahead of it - kind of like a metal firestorm!

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