Thread: Newly Acquired old Bench Grinder model identification..

When I took this grinder apart I found that I hadn't been the first to try. The centrifical start winding switch was damaged with the phenolic plate being fractured around its mounting holes.

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So todays job was to remake it with a couple of pieces of modern fibreglass printed circuit board material replacing the pieces of phenolic sheet.

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The finished piece is actually not too bad and I am hoping for another 70 years of operation from it.

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Hi Guys,

That is a neat repair and is exactly what I would have done ! Did you make sure that the contacts were clean before you re-assembled it.

Earlier I recall some one saying something about converting it to delta ??? I thought this was a single phase induction motor.
At least that is what it said on the rating plate.

Baron.
These grinders were available in both single and three phase. Identical to look at. I think the single phase bring more money used though.
peter

Originally Posted by bollie7

Baron.
These grinders were available in both single and three phase. Identical to look at. I think the single phase bring more money used though.
peter

I got my both of my 3P grinders at the cheapest possible price.

Originally Posted by BaronJ

Hi Guys,

That is a neat repair and is exactly what I would have done ! Did you make sure that the contacts were clean before you re-assembled it.

Earlier I recall some one saying something about converting it to delta ??? I thought this was a single phase induction motor.
At least that is what it said on the rating plate.

I did clean the contacts they seem to be silver. I asked about the conversion because I have spotted another GMF for sale but in three phase.

It'll last longer than 70 years, as long as some ham fisted clown leaves it alone.
Kryn

Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore

It'll last longer than 70 years, as long as some ham fisted clown leaves it alone.
Kryn

It has a cover that bolts over this set of terminals, with the cover is removed it becomes obvious that order of disassembly is important. This repair was only necessary because some clown had tried to get in there. I don't think they did actually manage too because the bearings were still the original Hoffman made in England ones and there really is no reason for getting in there other than to change bearings.

I bought some Mid Brunswick Green Rustkill in a spray can and the match isn't so bad. In the photo the base is the new paint and the bearing cover in my hand is in the original paint.
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While reading this thread the other day a faint memory popped into my head, so I went and had a look.

Yep, after cleaning the plate it said GMF. I have had for over 20 years and it`s been faultless. Takes all my abuse.
One day I shall show it some love.DSC05595 e.jpgDSC07225 e.jpg

Supposedly my wheels will arrive tomorrow and this will be finished. Except for a detail, where do I buy 2 drive pins from to reaffix the id plate?


Before and after shots
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Originally Posted by lamestllama

where do I buy 2 drive pins from to reaffix the id plate?

Great job on the resto.
I would give my eye teeth for one of those.

If you mean these

index.jpg
They are referred to as hammer drive screws and you may have to buy a box.
Most fastener shops should be able to get them.

Grahame

Originally Posted by Grahame Collins

Great job on the resto.
I would give my eye teeth for one of those.

If you mean these

index.jpg
They are referred to as hammer drive screws and you may have to buy a box.
Most fastener shops should be able to get them.

Grahame

That's exactly what I mean. Thanks for giving me the correct terminology to start looking.

You are not going to use it now are you? It looks far too pretty for that. Nice job. Puts my old one to shame.
peter

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FInally finished. I should have taken the photos before I dressed the wheels. Now I can move on to my next project which is my shed ceiling.