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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by shedhappens View Post
    I dont suppose that you realise that it is a LOT colder in Sweden.
    Machinery, and car engines run lower viscosity lubricants in colder climates.
    Yes, I know that. But it's obviously not an issue as ATF is only SAE 15. Read the article.

    How hot do recon an auto transmission oil gets
    The worst that can happen is you will fail.
    But at least you tried.



  2. #17
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    Yes I just read your article, it is only an opinion, no links to any proof that ATF is suitable for compressors.
    Obviously it works in your comp but that doesn't mean that it should be used in all comps, you might have a needle roller big end and the OP's comp's big end running in the alloy rod.

    cheers, shed

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by shedhappens View Post
    Yes I just read your article, it is only an opinion, no links to any proof that ATF is suitable for compressors.
    Obviously it works in your comp but that doesn't mean that it should be used in all comps, you might have a needle roller big end and the OP's comp's big end running in the alloy rod.

    cheers, shed
    Obviously from all the videos and articles on the web about this subject, it is clear that different oil grades may be specified for different pumps.

    BIAB export compressors globally, Binks Bullows (who built my semi industrial grade compressor) also know a thing or two about the subject, I suspect more than anyone reading this post.

    So use the oil grade recommended, if you can find it.

    I would point out though that running too heavy an oil in a splash lubrication system (most compressors) can do more harm than good due to oil starvation. It's like penetrating oil, too thick is no good.

    Most modern cars now run extremely low viscosity oils, and I don't see any blowing up as a result. I also have never seen a compressor with a roller bearing bottom end - those are usually the domain of high reving systems. But they may be out there.

    The article is well worth a read and it is obviously relevant to the subject.

    As for my air compressor, well it runs pretty cool, doesn't knock or rattle, and is only half a century old So do what you think best.

    Cheers Rob
    The worst that can happen is you will fail.
    But at least you tried.



  4. #19
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    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Well i have nearly 5 litres of Penrite Small Engine SAE30 so I may as well use it, majority here seem to think I will have no issues with it. It is just a chinese compressor after all.

    Reading through the information sheet indicated that it's viscosity at 40 degrees Celsius is 90

    https://www.penriteoil.com.au/produc...sae-30-mineral

    https://www.penriteoil.com.au/assets...0(Mineral).pdf

  5. #20
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    Apr 2012
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    Healesville
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    Here s a short clip of a ride on mower that came into the workshop where i used to work sounding like the crusher at a quarry.
    Yeah the owner reckoned the oil he put in it was bought from our shop.... yeah yeah pull the other one m8
    so I don't know what it was in there that caused that..
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zsSte3qu7JE
    Believe it or not I pulled out the crank and it all looked good, I just cleaned/washed/blew it all out and put a new set of valve lifters it
    and it ran and sounded sweet as a bun.

    cheers, shed

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Syd
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    I'd be a bit terrified of a compressor approaching half a century, unless there was a fairly frequent hydrostatic test regime. A couple of the Pilots here run different weights, despite the common manufacturer. Little Chinese one runs something different again to confuse matters too!

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    melbourne australia
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    My Clisby compressor calls for SAE 30 oil.
    Chris

  8. #23
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Perth
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    The cheap chinese compressor I bought some 15 years ago didn't have any oil changed or added to it for about 10 years. Every time I looked at the oil level glass it seemed to have the same level in it. Then one day I used it outside the shed and in the stronger lighting I realised what I was looking at was not the oil level but a stain on the glass left behind by the oil so I then decided to change the oil, What came out was about a cup of black ooze with a semi tarry consistency. I was amazed that it was still running. Anyway an oil change, new reed valves made from a beer can, fitted an auto drain valve, retightened all the fittings, and 5 year on my son has it and it is still running.

    On my Clisby I use Pilot Air ISO 100 compressor oil - I bought it direct from Clisby as it was considerably cheaper than from Hare and Forbes.
    FWIW ISO 100 is the same as SAE 30 for crankcase oils
    More comparisons are available here https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/i...de-d_1206.html

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    new reed valves made from a beer can,
    That was a good excuse to have a beer, how many cans did it take before you got them right

    I have used feeler gauges as reed valves, they work well

    cheers, shed

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Aldinga Beach.
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    73
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    148

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    I changed the oil in my compressor about 12 months after I got it, using Bunnings compressor oil. It was still a novelty then, haven't bothered since except for tops ups every five years or so. I bought the compressor in 1995. so the Bunnings oil is all my Ingersol Rand compressor has known for 22 years! I just might check the oil level tomorrow if I remember, or not, I wouldn't mind a bigger one!

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Sydney
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    Bunnings compressor oil.

    Feeler gauge for broken reed valve - works well.

    Both fine.
    Cheers
    Roger

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