Needs Pictures: 0
Results 1 to 15 of 46
Thread: Yep another AL336
-
7th Aug 2018, 11:15 PM #1
Yep another AL336
Just picked this unit from my local.
So far only pulled the stand cabinets out. The first thing that struck me was that if I put this unit up against the wall (which I am) is, accessing the coolant pump in the right hand side! It will be at the back.
So far thoughts are cutting hole out to access.
Anyone done this with the stand on this lathe? See a need to reinforce cabinet to compensate?Frisky wife, happy life. Then I woke up. Oh well it was fun while it lasted.From an early age my father taught me to wear welding gloves . "Its not to protect your hands son, its to put out the fire when u set yourself alight".
-
8th Aug 2018, 06:10 AM #2
Hi Jatt,
Are the cabinets symmetrical ? Could you just spin the one with coolant through 180.
Having said that I don't have coolant on the lathe, or mill for that matter. If I need any then I use either a brush or spray bottle.Best Regards:
Baron J.
-
8th Aug 2018, 04:36 PM #3
Something i had considered. To answer the good question you posed -- yes the bolt holes on top measure out as such.
When the lathe is put together there is a hole to take the foot brake (where round bar is sticking out) plus a square hole at the same side at the top . Not sure yet whether the square hole is for some wiring box?? Switching that rhs cabinet around and would have to redo those. At the top thinking hole is for coolant return to tank from tray?
More of course will come to light once the tray is unpackaged and fitted. Would rather avoid having tank sitting to one side. Bugger the mill drill is too high to clear the shelving above, otherwise it could share duties with it.Frisky wife, happy life. Then I woke up. Oh well it was fun while it lasted.From an early age my father taught me to wear welding gloves . "Its not to protect your hands son, its to put out the fire when u set yourself alight".
-
23rd Aug 2018, 12:01 AM #4
Finally got this sucker together.
Now its my first lathe, so yeah lots of nube questions, espec if I cant find any info in the archives.
Current issue is cant get the darn motor to start, or the DRO to power up.
Know I have got juice to the unit as the power lite is on and the coolant switch activates the pump as it should when turned on. For those unfamiliar with the 336, its on the same panel as the power on lite.
My first thought was the foot brake lever. It connects up to a microswitch, which I can only assume is responsible for killing the power. So disconnected the lever in case I cocked up its adjustment. Now vid seems to suggest there is some kind of physical brake, but don't see nuthin in the parts list (about the only useful part of the whole darn manual).
Naturally replaced the cover as its also got a micro that wont allow machine to run with it off. Only possible thought here is perhaps the adjustment could be off. So tried carefully pushing in a couple of small Allen keys to simulate so could keep cover off whilst troubleshooting.
Currently got cross and longitual feeds disengaged. Cant imagine why this would be a prob, but just trying everything at this stage.
Motor itself turns when I engauge the headstock and turn the chuck by hand. Was hoping it would be simpler to figure out which terminals I needed to apply some juice to see if motor is okay, but theres 4 (assuming that's cause lathe can run in reverse direction??).
Tried the forward/reverse spindle lever in different positions, as it appears it can be started using this (yep watched the H&F promo vid!)
So definitely up for some ideas.AL336 reverse lever.jpgAL336 whole lathe pic.jpgFrisky wife, happy life. Then I woke up. Oh well it was fun while it lasted.From an early age my father taught me to wear welding gloves . "Its not to protect your hands son, its to put out the fire when u set yourself alight".
-
23rd Aug 2018, 06:46 AM #5
Hi jatt,
Your lathe has the same physical appearance as My Metalmaster 12 x 36.
Some of these lathes had a microswitch on the chuck cover spindle.
The microswitch or its wiring is not visible from the operating position.
Maybe it is that.
Grahame
-
23rd Aug 2018, 09:10 AM #6Most Valued Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2010
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 9,088
Estop button out?
-
23rd Aug 2018, 12:20 PM #7Some of these lathes had a microswitch on the chuck cover spindle.
The microswitch or its wiring is not visible from the operating position.
Assuming you mean the safety guard? --- If its what you are thinking Gave that a go. It is Chinese, so would surprise me if these is a few "not quite right bits in it".
E Stop -- yep checked that too. Mind you on my expensive cut table one of the e stops has been a bit hit and miss from the get go.Frisky wife, happy life. Then I woke up. Oh well it was fun while it lasted.From an early age my father taught me to wear welding gloves . "Its not to protect your hands son, its to put out the fire when u set yourself alight".
-
23rd Aug 2018, 01:21 PM #8
Hi, jatt,
You will be looking for a manual, too, I suppose.
Grizzly has a bunch of online manuals.
I was fortunate enough to find one that was close. It was not exactly the same but still was extremely well set out and not the 25th copy of a
pre-faded photocopy that one who buys a new lathe in Oz, get insulted with.
This one looks close but if not, there are quite a few others there, to search through.
http://cdn2.grizzly.com/manuals/g0750g_m.pdf
The pages were printed and then back to back laminated and inserted into one of the plastic 20 page folders.
The manual can then be used the lathe area without too much chance of being spoiled.
Grahame
-
23rd Aug 2018, 01:46 PM #9Most Valued Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2007
- Location
- sydney ( st marys )
- Age
- 64
- Posts
- 4,887
Does the jog/inching work.
Does the fwd/rev lever actually move the shaft it's attached to , if it does is the shaft moving enough to activate the switching,if it doesn't you should be able to adjust how far the fwd/rev lever moves.
Is the DRO on a seperate circuit, it should stay on if the spindle is turned off I would have thought.
-
23rd Aug 2018, 06:24 PM #10Most Valued Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2010
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 9,088
Can you hear the contactors switching when you plug the lathe in or move the fwd/rev lever?
There is a circuit breaker in my control box, I assume yours is much the same, maybe thats tripped?
Is the DRO hard wired to the lathe?
-
23rd Aug 2018, 10:13 PM #11I break stuff...
- Join Date
- Aug 2010
- Location
- Toorloo Arm, VIC
- Age
- 39
- Posts
- 1,270
The DRO not coming on seems odd, you'd expect that to operate even when the motor is interlocked out.
But in case the DRO turns out to be a separate problem, I assume the AL336 like the AL335 also has a microswitch on the change gear cover? Making for at least 3 in total on that machine, being the chuck guard, change gear cover, and footbrake. Plus of course the E-stop, which on my AL335 needs to be twisted to make it pop back out (just checking! I could see that one possibly killing the DRO feed, unlike the others).
For what it's worth, on my AL335, I can hear a contactor clunk when I lower the chuck guard into position, and click when I lift it again (that's without the fwd/rev lever engaged). This seems to be the interlock section of the contactor arrangement. I'd hazard a guess that the 336 is the same, and thus, if you can't hear a little clunk inside the control box when you lower the chuck guard, either one of the other microswitches/interlocks is out of place, or you've got a more serious problem to do with power not getting to the contactor - which would match up of course with the DRO not working.
-
23rd Aug 2018, 11:32 PM #12
DRO -- sorted that one. Didnt notice the power switch on the back until late today. So got power there now.
Jog/inching doesnt go. Cant hear contactor noise from control board.
Nor can I hear anything contactor wise when moving forward/reverse lever. Can only hear the click from behind the actual control lever. Havent looked into the actual adjustment.
Shes a brand new unit, so am being a little careful with what I fiddle with at this stage.
Found a reset button on one contactor in the back. Tried pushing it and there is no movement. Thinking maybe it would need to have power to it to do so?Frisky wife, happy life. Then I woke up. Oh well it was fun while it lasted.From an early age my father taught me to wear welding gloves . "Its not to protect your hands son, its to put out the fire when u set yourself alight".
-
24th Aug 2018, 01:58 AM #13
Hi Jatt,
I don't know if you have checked for a circuit breaker left switched off ?
One way to fault find this is with a test bulb (A low wattage lamp globe) with test probes.
In use you stick one probe on neutral and use the other to check the points where you should have power.
There is usually a circuit diagram in the manual, it would help if you could scan it and post it.Best Regards:
Baron J.
-
24th Aug 2018, 09:57 AM #14Most Valued Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2007
- Location
- sydney ( st marys )
- Age
- 64
- Posts
- 4,887
Have you spoken with the supplier about this problem?
-
24th Aug 2018, 02:16 PM #15
Sure have. I am getting the bum steer already between hare n forbes and local place I bought it. No money has been forthcoming from my account yet. Until they finish trying to pass the buck off and get something sorted, then that's the way it's Gunna stay. Unless of course can figure it out first.
Similar Threads
-
aL336-D
By clive hugh in forum METALWORK GENERALReplies: 16Last Post: 15th Jul 2015, 04:01 PM -
My new AL336 lathe
By Sparkiekosten in forum METALWORK GENERALReplies: 21Last Post: 7th Aug 2011, 11:19 AM -
Al336 v al960b
By eskimo in forum METALWORK GENERALReplies: 50Last Post: 9th Jun 2011, 06:46 PM -
AL336 or AL960B - which one?
By markjaffa in forum METALWORK GENERALReplies: 17Last Post: 20th Sep 2009, 02:48 PM