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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default

    Hi ViperX85,

    The oil flows out by capillary action ! The ones with a wire down the inside are the same. As long as the wire contacts the sides the oil will flow over the top into the tube. Useful effect, capillary action
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Ballarat
    Age
    65
    Posts
    3,103

    Default

    Hi Viper
    with regard to the lubrication cups and stuff, I had a similar problem on one of the steam engines I had to get going.
    I used a combination of felt as well as trimmings both plug and tail.
    The outcome was very successful so if you need more pics or info then don't hesitate to ask.

    Phil
    IMG_9697 copy.jpg DSCN0073 copy.JPG IMG_9698 copy.JPG DSCN0077 copy.JPG IMG_9693 copy.JPG Trimmings(1) (Large).jpg

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    201

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Viperx85 View Post
    I don't suppose if anyone knows the original paint color of Nuttals? Not sure if the green is the original color or not.
    Viper,
    My Herbert Nuttall had been painted a creamy light green colour (see pics in your other thread) at some stage in it's 77 year life, but underneath was a mid grey colour (see pics here). On this basis I decided to paint mine machinery grey, which matched many other machines in my workshop. This colour is close but not exactly the same as what I found under the cream.

    I was surprised how much filler was under the paint. The manufacturer went to quite some trouble to smooth over casting imperfections and surface roughness. I have replicated this for the re-build, with many layers of polyester bog and hours of sanding.

    Can you see any other colour under the green on yours?

    Graham.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    near Warragul, Victoria
    Posts
    3,718

    Default

    I've noticed the same lathe on epay now
    ex munitions commonwealth ...the ways look very rusty

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Hobart, Australia
    Age
    38
    Posts
    24

    Default

    So was tossing up whether to strip and repaint the machine now or get the motor/VFD first, Decided its likely best to get the motor and VFD first so I can do any modifications to get it running first before repainting it.

    First step was I got a Teco 2.2Kw 4pole 3ph Motor
    new motor.jpg

    Shaft size is larger then original, I removed the original pulley and will have to get it bored out to suit the motor.
    pulley.jpg

    One pair of holes is pretty close and will just have to slot the foot in the motor about half a hole to suit
    length holes.jpg

    Other pair of holes are a fair way off... Debating whether to just drill some new holes in the original mounting surface, Or keep the lathe as original as I can and make up and adapter plate that bolts to the original holes and has holes to suit the motor.
    width holes.jpg

    Will be ordering a Powtrans PI160 VFD next.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default

    Hi Viper,

    I would make up a mounting plate. Would raising the motor 6 or 8 mm make any difference ?
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Hobart, Australia
    Age
    38
    Posts
    24

    Default

    Im gong to get the pulley machined and fitted first and see where it needs to sit to keep tension on the belt and the belt cover still fit. I guess that will somewhat dictate how/where the motor is mounted.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Hobart, Australia
    Age
    38
    Posts
    24

    Default

    Slow progress but got the pulley machined to suit the new motor and milled up an adapter plate out of 10mm aluminum using my chinese cnc router To mount the new motor without having to drill any new holes in the Lathe.


    Next step is setup the VFD

    4362.jpg4364.jpg4359.jpg4361.jpg

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Location
    Australia
    Age
    51
    Posts
    8

    Default Nuttall bump

    Hello, am just giving the Nuttall thread a bump in hope for any updates. I have a 1941 in telecom or s.e.c orange, i ditched the gearbox and went for 3hp with vfd and 6 rib serpentine belt, i went with large chinese drip oilers and run 5W synthetic motorcycle oil. I basically drip heaps to much to be sure!
    I get 10 to 900 rpm on direct and 1 to 300rpm with the backgear which is mostly for large drills.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    201

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Wolsy View Post
    Hello, am just giving the Nuttall thread a bump in hope for any updates.....
    Wolsy,
    I have not made any progress on my 1941 Nuttall lathe restoration. Things got very busy at work for me over the past couple of years, and I have not been in the workshop much at all, and not active on this forum either. However, I have now retired and am starting to get the workshop back into some kind of order, and am hoping to get back to the Nuttall restoration soon.

    Can you provide any details of your VFD conversion? Brand and type of VFD? Belt details etc.? And I'd be keen to know what oilers you have used and where you got them from.

    Graham.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Location
    Australia
    Age
    51
    Posts
    8

    Default

    Sorry for late reply, the cone head machine has gearbox mounted high in the air, my shed had no room for an engine crane to lift that high, so the gearbox was sold and and treadmill motor was fitted with 6 rib poly v belt and Ecotec balancer pulley. This arrangment was too weak, i ditched the treadmill and used 2.2kw 3hp 2800rpm motor with a chinese vfd. Heaps of grunt, the back gear only gets used for large drills or large diameter stuff, there should a photo in my album. Ive no idea how post forum images, i think the website does allow bulk dumping of images to keep costs down, fair enough i guess.

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Location
    Illawarra
    Posts
    6

    Default

    Hi, I have just bought one of these lathes but it was dismantled,would anybody know the total weight on this model lathe.
    Regards
    Drsven

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    35
    Posts
    1,522

    Default

    At a guess based on my later model nuttall about 1.4 to 1.6t

    Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Location
    Illawarra
    Posts
    6

    Default

    Hi caskwarrior
    Thanks for your information,
    I will post some photos soon I have completely
    Disassembled the lathe it's in very good condition for its age.
    Apart from the previous owners grandson pulling it to pieces and damaging a few items.
    I was not impressed
    Cheers
    David

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    201

    Default

    Mine sure is heavy, especially with its gearbox and motor mount, but maybe not 1.4t. The later models were geared head I think, so could well be this weight.

    Dr Sven, I have a good photographic recored of mine coming apart if you get stuck with the re-assembly. Mine is still in pieces too, but I've started to make some progress. All the major parts are now painted.

    Graham.

    IMG_8509.jpeg

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