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25th Jul 2018, 01:42 AM #16
Hi ViperX85,
The oil flows out by capillary action ! The ones with a wire down the inside are the same. As long as the wire contacts the sides the oil will flow over the top into the tube. Useful effect, capillary actionBest Regards:
Baron J.
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25th Jul 2018, 09:46 AM #17Most Valued Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2011
- Location
- Ballarat
- Age
- 65
- Posts
- 3,103
Hi Viper
with regard to the lubrication cups and stuff, I had a similar problem on one of the steam engines I had to get going.
I used a combination of felt as well as trimmings both plug and tail.
The outcome was very successful so if you need more pics or info then don't hesitate to ask.
Phil
IMG_9697 copy.jpg DSCN0073 copy.JPG IMG_9698 copy.JPG DSCN0077 copy.JPG IMG_9693 copy.JPG Trimmings(1) (Large).jpg
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25th Jul 2018, 10:43 AM #18Senior Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2013
- Location
- Sydney
- Posts
- 201
Viper,
My Herbert Nuttall had been painted a creamy light green colour (see pics in your other thread) at some stage in it's 77 year life, but underneath was a mid grey colour (see pics here). On this basis I decided to paint mine machinery grey, which matched many other machines in my workshop. This colour is close but not exactly the same as what I found under the cream.
I was surprised how much filler was under the paint. The manufacturer went to quite some trouble to smooth over casting imperfections and surface roughness. I have replicated this for the re-build, with many layers of polyester bog and hours of sanding.
Can you see any other colour under the green on yours?
Graham.
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25th Jul 2018, 01:10 PM #19
I've noticed the same lathe on epay now
ex munitions commonwealth ...the ways look very rusty
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31st Aug 2018, 09:40 PM #20Novice
- Join Date
- Apr 2018
- Location
- Hobart, Australia
- Age
- 38
- Posts
- 24
So was tossing up whether to strip and repaint the machine now or get the motor/VFD first, Decided its likely best to get the motor and VFD first so I can do any modifications to get it running first before repainting it.
First step was I got a Teco 2.2Kw 4pole 3ph Motor
new motor.jpg
Shaft size is larger then original, I removed the original pulley and will have to get it bored out to suit the motor.
pulley.jpg
One pair of holes is pretty close and will just have to slot the foot in the motor about half a hole to suit
length holes.jpg
Other pair of holes are a fair way off... Debating whether to just drill some new holes in the original mounting surface, Or keep the lathe as original as I can and make up and adapter plate that bolts to the original holes and has holes to suit the motor.
width holes.jpg
Will be ordering a Powtrans PI160 VFD next.
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1st Sep 2018, 04:59 AM #21
Hi Viper,
I would make up a mounting plate. Would raising the motor 6 or 8 mm make any difference ?Best Regards:
Baron J.
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1st Sep 2018, 10:40 AM #22Novice
- Join Date
- Apr 2018
- Location
- Hobart, Australia
- Age
- 38
- Posts
- 24
Im gong to get the pulley machined and fitted first and see where it needs to sit to keep tension on the belt and the belt cover still fit. I guess that will somewhat dictate how/where the motor is mounted.
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22nd Sep 2018, 09:30 PM #23Novice
- Join Date
- Apr 2018
- Location
- Hobart, Australia
- Age
- 38
- Posts
- 24
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19th Feb 2020, 08:34 PM #24New Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2020
- Location
- Australia
- Age
- 51
- Posts
- 8
Nuttall bump
Hello, am just giving the Nuttall thread a bump in hope for any updates. I have a 1941 in telecom or s.e.c orange, i ditched the gearbox and went for 3hp with vfd and 6 rib serpentine belt, i went with large chinese drip oilers and run 5W synthetic motorcycle oil. I basically drip heaps to much to be sure!
I get 10 to 900 rpm on direct and 1 to 300rpm with the backgear which is mostly for large drills.
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11th Mar 2020, 12:30 PM #25Senior Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2013
- Location
- Sydney
- Posts
- 201
Wolsy,
I have not made any progress on my 1941 Nuttall lathe restoration. Things got very busy at work for me over the past couple of years, and I have not been in the workshop much at all, and not active on this forum either. However, I have now retired and am starting to get the workshop back into some kind of order, and am hoping to get back to the Nuttall restoration soon.
Can you provide any details of your VFD conversion? Brand and type of VFD? Belt details etc.? And I'd be keen to know what oilers you have used and where you got them from.
Graham.
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2nd Apr 2020, 11:21 PM #26New Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2020
- Location
- Australia
- Age
- 51
- Posts
- 8
Sorry for late reply, the cone head machine has gearbox mounted high in the air, my shed had no room for an engine crane to lift that high, so the gearbox was sold and and treadmill motor was fitted with 6 rib poly v belt and Ecotec balancer pulley. This arrangment was too weak, i ditched the treadmill and used 2.2kw 3hp 2800rpm motor with a chinese vfd. Heaps of grunt, the back gear only gets used for large drills or large diameter stuff, there should a photo in my album. Ive no idea how post forum images, i think the website does allow bulk dumping of images to keep costs down, fair enough i guess.
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4th Sep 2020, 01:51 PM #27New Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2020
- Location
- Illawarra
- Posts
- 6
Hi, I have just bought one of these lathes but it was dismantled,would anybody know the total weight on this model lathe.
Regards
Drsven
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4th Sep 2020, 07:44 PM #28Most Valued Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2016
- Location
- Melbourne
- Age
- 35
- Posts
- 1,522
At a guess based on my later model nuttall about 1.4 to 1.6t
Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
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4th Sep 2020, 08:12 PM #29New Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2020
- Location
- Illawarra
- Posts
- 6
Hi caskwarrior
Thanks for your information,
I will post some photos soon I have completely
Disassembled the lathe it's in very good condition for its age.
Apart from the previous owners grandson pulling it to pieces and damaging a few items.
I was not impressed
Cheers
David
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5th Sep 2020, 12:23 PM #30Senior Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2013
- Location
- Sydney
- Posts
- 201
Mine sure is heavy, especially with its gearbox and motor mount, but maybe not 1.4t. The later models were geared head I think, so could well be this weight.
Dr Sven, I have a good photographic recored of mine coming apart if you get stuck with the re-assembly. Mine is still in pieces too, but I've started to make some progress. All the major parts are now painted.
Graham.
IMG_8509.jpeg
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