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12th Jul 2018, 10:14 AM #1
Exposed fasteners - what about using ss nut on steel stud?
I've got to replace some anti-vibration feet that are in a very exposed area. These are the type with a stud coming up from the rubber foot (Kipp type D). On the current ones, the nut has rusted very badly onto the stud. The other end being rubber, I can't get a grip on them, the nuts are very hard to get at too, so I'll just have to cut them off. I could replace them with Kipp feet that have a stainless steel stud, but that is getting expensive.
So I'm wondering, what if I get the more sanely-priced rubber feet with ordinary steel studs, but use stainless steel nuts? Will that improve the chances of getting them apart in the future?
I found a nice article called "Avoiding the pain of rusted nuts" in the magazine Farming Ahead (http://www.farmingahead.com.au/wp-co...242_27.pdf.pdf), which presents various options for dealing with exposed fasteners -- but unfortunately it doesn't discuss the idea of stainless steel nuts with steel bolts or studs.
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12th Jul 2018, 10:29 AM #2Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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Depends on the extent of the corrosion. If the studs corrode badly and swell the thread above the nut you will have the same problem
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12th Jul 2018, 11:43 AM #3
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12th Jul 2018, 12:40 PM #4Most Valued Member
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Depending on the environment and cause of corrosion, I would consider using Loctite never seize on both the nut and exposed thread and covering the exposed thread with a snug fitting plastic or rubber tube/hose. Never seize will stand up in an underground mining environment so anything else is pretty easy really. Stainless nuts on carbon steel thread won't achieve all that much IMHO.
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12th Jul 2018, 12:55 PM #5Senior Member
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Never seize is great stuff.
Regards
Bradford
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12th Jul 2018, 01:40 PM #6
I hadn't heard of this. Looked it up on the web, found Loctite Anti Seize in various grades, but the Loctite website leads to dead ends when you try to find out what the various grades are for.
If it's the 'Silver Grade' (but what little the Loctite website has seems to suggest its only for aluminium though), then Loctite LB 8150 Silver Grade Anti-Seize 20g tube, $18 + postage on eBay
Bostik Never-Seez regular grade 113g tube $25 on eBay. Or Blackwoods for $30. There's another Never-Seez grade, 'Nuclear Grade'. The mind boggles.
I'll see if my local industrial supplier has it, or an equivalent.
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12th Jul 2018, 01:46 PM #7
Yep, they have Chemtools brand, 35g for $8. That's better.
I had to call Chemtools though, to sort out the grades in plain language:
Copper grade - brass, copper, bronze only
Nickel grade - steel, stainless steel, aluminium -- this is the one they recommended when I described my application (steel studs going rusty outdoors)
Silver grade - works really well on stainless steel.
Premium Nickel Anti-Seize | Chemtools® Australia
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12th Jul 2018, 02:12 PM #8Most Valued Member
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I always use Kopr-Kote. Even in the pretty trying conditions of a steam boiler it works well. While the oil may dry up eventually I found that a thin film of Copper(?) stays there and mitigates a lot of the corrosion.
Have been using it for just over 40 years now.
Jet-Lube, LLC. | Kopr-Kote Industrial - High Temp Anti-Sieze
Phil
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12th Jul 2018, 02:36 PM #9
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12th Jul 2018, 03:47 PM #10
Hi Guys,
In the UK it is called "Copperslip" ! Brilliant stuff, often used for anti seize on car brakes.Best Regards:
Baron J.
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12th Jul 2018, 05:29 PM #11
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12th Jul 2018, 06:01 PM #12Most Valued Member
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12th Jul 2018, 08:38 PM #13
About combining different metals in a wet environment: be very cautious!
I assume you have heard about anode's on steel ships and bronze propellers? If electrically connected in a wet environment two different metals will form a kind of battery where the more corrosive metal will sacrifice itself to protect the less corrosive. In this way zink will protect steel by corroding extra fast itself. Also a electrically isolating paste is used between stainless fixtures and aluminium spars on sailing yachts to prevent the aluminium from extreme oxidation. I have seen a steel yacht that sprung leak because a stainless nut had fallen in the bilge and got wedged against the hull. Over time a very local oxidation of the steel hull occurred where the nut connected. The hull was in perfect condition otherwise, but when the owner returned from a shopping trip it had started to leak and half a meter of water was already in his boat. In your application the stud would sacrifice itself to protect the stainless nut but that would result in quick corrosion of the stud. Probably not what you intended. Antiseize might form a electrical isolation layer to protect from this phenomenon, but I am not sure, and the copaslip contains copper so provides no insulation. On the other hand the copper does function like a sort of anode which is part of its antiseize properties.
Personally I would choose steel nuts and antiseize in your application.
Peter
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12th Jul 2018, 11:04 PM #14Most Valued Member
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blind nuts
You could make your own nuts (hex bar makes it easy), just make them longer and dont drill all the way through.
Add some anti seize, any brand with the copper in it seems to work.
cheers, shed
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12th Jul 2018, 11:55 PM #15
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