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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    406

    Default

    Thanks Simon - re the plate. I've not really researched it much so far so I was kind of figuring on giving 'printing' on an aluminium plate a go. Or a few goes more like ... )

    The SN# plate is not really 'artwork'. Google 'bridgeport UK serial number plate' and it is the first image.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    3,825

    Default

    Hi Greg.

    Im not sure if im missing something but when you use the Press & Peel and iron transfer it onto the copper circuit board, you then place the board in an acid bath. The acid etches away any copper that is not protected with a film of the Press & peel, leaving copper underneath.

    You then wash the board and use a scouring pad to remove the Press & Peel coating, revealing the circuit board you designed.

    Not sure how you would do that with aluminium. Do you anodise it instead, blackening the surrounding ares?

    If so, that would look good.

    Simon


    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Perth WA
    Age
    66
    Posts
    6,087

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    A wonderful transformation Greg. Well done.

    Bob.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    3,825

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    Greg. I just found this. Its exactly what you need to know to make your label!

    https://www.google.com.au/amp/www.in...famp_page=true

    Cheers

    Simon

    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Alphen aan den Rijn, Netherlands
    Posts
    201

    Default

    That's great info Simon, thanks!
    Peter
    Quote Originally Posted by simonl View Post
    Greg. I just found this. Its exactly what you need to know to make your label!

    https://www.google.com.au/amp/www.in...famp_page=true

    Cheers

    Simon

    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    406

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    Hey Bob. There you are! Thanks again for the book. I took this especially for you :

    IMG_20180616_131133.jpg

    I'll pass it on gratis to the next punter doing same with a BP. )

    Simon, thanks. I did see that page when sniffing about. But, I also saw somewhere to print pic, transfer it to metal with heat and then lacquer. No etching. I am pretty lazy with that stuff and would prefer not to have to etch etc. I've not done that stuff before so really have no idea what I am talking about!! )

    .. and this is why I think I should re do the plate:

    IMG_20180408_181300.jpg

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    406

    Default

    Oh, and I am 100% satisfied I have no idea how to diagnose why the motor no longer runs so I'll post over in electrical. Truth told, there are meat ants with more electrical noggin than me ...

    Greg.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    49
    Posts
    612

    Default

    G'day Greg,
    Beautiful job on the restoration.
    With regards to re-doing the artwork on your non-etched plates, waterslide decal paper might be worth a try.
    I used some of the inkjet type to make a new Myford decal and it worked very well.
    Looks likes there are laser versions available now.

    https://drdecalmrhyde.com.au/shop/fi...e-decal-paper/

    The metallic stuff sounds interesting too.
    Anyway, just thought it might be an option.
    Keep up the great work.
    Cheers,
    Greg.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    406

    Default

    Thanks Greg. Good tip.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    406

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    I am happy to report that with the help and patience of Bob L and BaronJ the motor is running now. Thank guys. I could not have done it without you. Here:

    3ph motor worked on VFD - now it doesn't. Stumped.

    More to go before mill is useable, but that was the last blocker (hopefully).

    Greg.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    South of Adelaide
    Posts
    513

    Default

    I saw this video a while back. might be a idea for making the plates for your mill.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=68-QAwB8TdI

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    406

    Default

    Thanks snapatap. I had seen that. Amazing result isn't it.

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Port Macquarie
    Posts
    6

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    Stray Alien that's an excellent job. Always good to see old machines restored. You are probably well aware of Tubalcain aka MrPete222 on youtube who has many videos on the Bridgeport and repair/restoration/improvements

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    406

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    Thanks Anodyne, almost there with it. I've had to pull the head apart again to resolve a kind of badly-seated-bearing noise. The head still rattles so I do have wear in the hi speed dog clutch teeth. Still stewing over whether I spend the $700 to replace them. Likely I will but I just have to figure what I sell first. )

    I made a first test cut on it at the weekend. Lovely. Was very happy with the result. I am happy to report that spindle runout is a wopping 0.0002". So we're good there.

    Shim material arrived yesterday so I can shim the knee to saddle gib to stop it poking out the rear and stopping me putting the way wiper cover on.

    Getting there!

    Re Mr Pete - sure, we all do. Though I haven't really tuned in to him much lately.

    Greg.

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    406

    Default 19 weeks later ... a Bridgeport is usable ...

    Being compulsively anal I decided to spend time to try to understand the head rattle and see if I could solve it without coughing up $700 for new parts. Turns out if was indeed solvable and now, after tearing the head down more times than I care for, the machine is purring along - no rattle. gib shimmed also so we're now fully operational. Very happy about that - it has been every weekend for 5 months. Phew.

    An an FYI, the BP 2J heads can rattle when some parts becomes worn. The two main culprits are the plastic bearings on the cones for the pulley system. I replaced those as part of the H&W rebuild kit. The other reason is the dog teeth engagement when in hi speed. Worn dog teeth mean rattle. Often it goes away under load (when cutting) but it is sure annoying to have a machine that sounds like bolts in a tin when you turn it on. The hi/lo speed lever can be adjusted up to cause the bull-gear and lower dog teeth to get better engagement but sometimes that does work.

    Alternatively, you can remove the 'locating pins' that hold the lower head 'tub' onto the bull-gear housing and 'float' it to find a sweet spot where the teeth engage. I did this and it completely removed the noise.

    I now have a mill that I am happy with. )

    Greg.

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