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18th Jul 2018, 09:16 PM #16
In Canberra, so I presume most of inland NSW west of the dividing range, I've found that nothing rusts, no matter how many years and no matter left unoiled -- that's inside a double-garage workshop with brush seals around the panelift main door anyway. It's a wonderful thing.
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18th Jul 2018, 10:27 PM #17
My lathe, mill, surface plate etc are always kept covered in tarpaulins so they don't get grinding dust or welding sparks on them, they are also oiled after use. All my BMS stocks are kept under grease soaked towels so they don't rust. That's worked well so far.
If I had my time over I would have insulated the workshop but it was built 40+ years ago and now has so much stuff in it that it's not practical to retro-fit it.
I did build an insulated shed last year for the lathe and mill but my daughter unexpectedly moved back home and that shed is now full of her furniture - sigh...
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20th Jul 2018, 12:24 AM #18.
- Join Date
- Nov 2008
- Location
- Perth WA
- Age
- 71
- Posts
- 6,459
I'm probably about the same distance from the Swan as Bob with the striped apron. His shed is insulated and air-conditioned, mine benefits from neither. I try to keep all bright surfaces oiled. Sometimes it is not enough.....
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My wife and I travelled overseas for a week two weeks ago. Before I left I anointed all the bright surfaces in the shed with red Timken wheel bearing grease and covered all my machines with cotton sheets. The one surface that I overlooked was the table on my little Tough drill. It had been coated with Lanotec but it didn't cope well with a week's dismal weather. It was as orange as the TOS chuck.
An ongoing battle. I need a ceiling in the bloody shed!
Bob.
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21st Jul 2018, 12:00 PM #19
I think you guys are all pretty lucky with your rust problems.
I would be more than willing to swap my mould problems for your rust problems. No more swinging off a ladder 4.5m above the shed floor with an angle grinder and strip disc, cleaning all the columns and beams,getting rid of all the old paint so it can be repainted with paint containing copius quantities of anti-mould additives. Having all your problems at a nice working height, man what a luxury that'd be!
You know of course that I listen to my wife, when she said build this shed as big as you can, I listened, took notice, went for it. So when it's finished and all nicely sealed up (any day, er, month, ok, well, year now) I'll have 1000 cubic metres of humid, mould spore laden, air inside. Nothing a good AC system (or two) set to dehumidify can't help control.
Anyway, hope you'll al forgive my rant. I think I'll just go out to the shed and take out my passive aggression issues on an angle grinder I keep for just such an occassion...
Cheers
The Beryl BlokeEquipmenter.... Projects I own
Lathes - Sherline 4410 CNC
Mills - Deckel FP2LB, Hardinge TM-UM, Sherline 2000 CNC.
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22nd Jul 2018, 12:41 AM #20
Hi Guys,
Yes cleaning off mould can be very aggravating, particularly when it is in that one inch gap over the kitchen cabinets and the artexed ceiling.Best Regards:
Baron J.
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8th Sep 2018, 03:43 PM #21Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2018
- Location
- Lismore Northern NSW
- Age
- 50
- Posts
- 81
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8th Sep 2018, 07:37 PM #22
You will probably find that a 60 watt incandescent light bulb under the tarp will be all you need.
I have a 130 watt, 5 foot long, anti frost heater in the garage. It only has an uninsulated thin roller shutter door. Works a treat.
During cold periods it sometimes runs 24 hours a day. The thermostat is set at about 5C.Best Regards:
Baron J.
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8th Sep 2018, 08:13 PM #23Member: Blue and white apron brigade
- Join Date
- Feb 2006
- Location
- Perth
- Posts
- 7,189
If the object is small enough or you have a pot that is big enough, every time the object rusts you could boil it in distilled water for 10/15 minutes. This will convert the red oxide to the black (rust resistant) oxide. This will need to be done a few times to build up a layer of black oxide. After a number of boilings you will find it no longer rusts. Now I realise this is not going to work with large objects like tables or machine beds but it will work on things like handles and machine tool parts etc. It will work better if its oil free.
This raw MS handle took about 4 years to develop visible rust in my shed.
3 Passes through my fume bluing tank and distilled water boil cycle and I reckon it should see me out.
Brake-handle.jpg
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14th Oct 2018, 07:59 PM #24Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2018
- Location
- Lismore Northern NSW
- Age
- 50
- Posts
- 81
This is what I'm trying, a 45W reptile heater in the sump of the lathe then a painter's drop cloth over the top. We are getting frequent morning mists here. If this goes well I'll drape the drop cloth over an aluminium frame hanging from a pulley to make putting it on and off easily. As you can see, the lathe is new... I don't know how the reptile heaters will fare in the long term with oil and coolant but they are only about $25.
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