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Thread: Premo Mk3 lathe lubrication
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8th May 2019, 09:14 PM #16Novice
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The bearings are class 3 timken roller bearings and will be very expensive to replace. I'd be surprised if they need replacing.. I'd machine the backplate off just like pipeclay said. Just turn it like it was any other job. It will most likely be cast iron, but possibly steel. Almost certainly won't be hardened.
Please don't use pipe-wrench like tools, they'll just damage things. The clamp I showed can be tightened as hard as you like and will grip like hell and not damage anything.
I would try heat or penetrating oil. Unless there is a locking pin it will undo, even if there is a hidden pin, it will shear which is probably better than stuffing up the spindle bearings.
As mentioned it's a 2.5" (edit: actually 2 1/4") thread, pretty hefty. Any corrosion will have it on there pretty tight. Also any kind of crash could really lock the chuck on there. Get yourself some big long levers to apply lots of torque with more control.
Craig
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8th May 2019, 09:21 PM #17Most Valued Member
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If you are going to try heat , I would suggest you remove the chuck and place bolts or pins into the mounting holes in the back plate and then position a long lever of some description between the bolts or pins so that you can apply force to the back plate.
When it comes to heating I would spot heat only to the backing plate about 1" from the spindle , if using oxy should only take a few minutes to get it cherry red , you need to apply force to your lever at the same time.You don't won't to get the sp8ndle as hot as the back plate, you may even consider placing a wet rag in the spindle to try and eliminate it getting to hot.
Once it starts to move keep turning it until it is off.
If heat does not work just machine the backing plate off until you get down to just above the spindle thread, if it the size I think the spindle OD is 1 1/2", so around 1 5/8" should be okay, you may even find that you can take it lower, you should then be able to try monkeys or stillsons on it to unscrew the remainder, when machining it off make sure you don't cut the register face behind the spindle thread.
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8th May 2019, 09:29 PM #18Novice
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I just went and measured my dummy spindle nose. Definitely 2.25" X 6tpi. Not 2.5" as I previously mentioned (apologies).
Certainly don't turn it down to 1 5/8", or you may be turning fresh air!
Craig
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9th May 2019, 10:17 AM #19Most Valued Member
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Pipeclay is probably thinking about the earlier Premo lathes, which were 1 1/2-8 threaded spindles. I made a new spindle for mine and went to 2 1/4-8 to match the nose on my Smith-Drum.
Then I sold the Premo.....
Agree with pipeclay with the addition that sometimes a hard shock gets things moving when a steady force won't. Smacking the end of a stiff bar with a BIG hammer *provided* the spindle is properly restrained and won't suffer damage may shift things. I think I used a hydraulic jack to break the faceplate free on the Smith-Drum when I first got it. I wasn't turning *that* off, it was 28" diameter cast iron.
PDW
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9th May 2019, 10:20 PM #20New Member
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9th May 2019, 10:41 PM #21Most Valued Member
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Sounds like a lot of mucking around.
I would weld a socket to it and hit it with a rattle gun while it is still hot from the weld.
cheers, shed
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10th May 2019, 09:43 AM #22Most Valued Member
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If think that would be a bit of a bush job then bolt a bit of plate to the backing plate with a large bolt welded in centre of that, disengauge your gear train and impact it.
You like wont need any heat and any shock from the impact gun into your brgs would be far less that when doing an inerupted cut.
Cheers, shed
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10th May 2019, 02:43 PM #23
Heat
Been through this with a vintage Holbrook lathe. Heat cool heat cool more the better. I shoved a wet rag down the spindle . This went on for days but it finally came free . Be patient very important. The repeated heating cooling cycles will do the job . I locked the spindle by inserting a chuck jaw between
the headstock casing and a gear. Its all described in a thread on this forum...//metalworkforums.com/f65/t1967...Holbrook+stuck
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13th May 2019, 04:44 PM #24New Member
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thread direction
Im at that point where im questioning everything, before i resort to machining it off, which way do i have to turn it to loosen it, would i have to turn it towards me(me being in a operational position) (left, looking at the headstock from the tail stock) or away from me (right, looking at the head stock from the tailstock).
Cheers
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13th May 2019, 07:33 PM #25Most Valued Member
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Looking from the tailstock turn it counterclockwise (left).
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13th May 2019, 08:29 PM #26New Member
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26th Jun 2020, 02:15 AM #27Intermediate Member
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My MK2 5.5 inch premo has a 1 3/4 inch shaft. Getting the chuck off was difficult, but I engaged the back gears and applied steady pressure to the chuck with a long bar and it came off. BUT it was fairly tight which I did not expect.
Am rebuilding the lathe currently and will look at this tightness aspect when I attend to the headstock.
The headstock alignment uses 4 adjustable screws in the bed. It should be fairly straightforward to align the headstock. Famous last words I hope NOT.
rumpfy
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