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31st May 2018, 08:28 AM #1Novice
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manual for TIDA TD 1236 E lathe 1990
I bought a Tilda TD 1236 E lathe, (in about 1999) and I know someone was looking for the Manual, I was cleaning up and found it.
I would like to put it up here in case you are looking for it.
its not a Toolroom qulity lathe, but it works okay, I also own a Myford 7 (which was my dads) which is a much better lathe.
Laurence
( I have scanned the pages that have the info on them so the missing numbers were blank)
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17th Jun 2018, 02:09 PM #2
Hi laurences,
A belated welcome to the Metalwork forum.
Maybe because it is posted
I have PMd you some links to help you navigate around the sub Forums.
Thank for the effort in scanning the manual for your lathe.It may well turn out very handy for someone who acquires this model of lathe.Because the is Taiwanese some members may feel it is better than some other current offerings
Normally by now someone should have said g'day and welcome but maybe because your post is in OFF TPOIC the guys have missed it.
Because the post is revelant to metalwork I"ll move it to General Metalwork, and it may receive a better response there.
Grahame
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26th Oct 2018, 11:08 AM #3New Member
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- Oct 2018
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- San Diego, California
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Thank you for posting this manual. I just purchased this lathe and trying to find out all I can about it. For example does anyone know the spindle taper? It measures approximately 1-5/8” in diameter at the large end. Are there any parts or support for this lathe? How close is this lathe to an Enco 13” lathe? Thanks in advance, Jim B.
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26th Oct 2018, 03:38 PM #4Philomath in training
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- Oct 2011
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- Norwood-ish, Adelaide
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- 59
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G'day Jim
Welcome aboard.
The spindle taper you have is likely to be a morse taper 5. Typically lathes have something like this in the headstock and there is an adaptor that takes that down to a morse taper 2 socket so a dead centre can be used. Parts are not always available for these lathes so it may be a matter of making them up yourself if you need one. As you are in the US, I would not know where to even suggest you try. Possibly Grizzly - most of these Chinese & Taiwanese lathes are very similar designs so once you have identified what it is similar too, they may be able to help.
Michael
Michael
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26th Oct 2018, 04:58 PM #5Most Valued Member
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- Jun 2007
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- sydney ( st marys )
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Might be an oversight or typographical error but most lathes this size use an M/T 5 to M/T 3 reducer in the
Head Stock spindle bore , and not M/T 2 as mentioned.
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26th Oct 2018, 05:11 PM #6Philomath in training
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- Norwood-ish, Adelaide
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Thanks for the correction. Mine takes MT2 (as does the tailstock) and is a pretty common size, so made the assumption...
Michael
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26th Oct 2018, 10:54 PM #7Novice
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- May 2018
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- Sydney
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Yes that's right it is. MT 5 to MT 3 reducer, the chuck is held on with a standard 3 cam lock, I bought a blank from Hare and Forbes Nortmead Sydney, I also fitted a rev counter
https://www.ebay.com.au/p/4-Digital-...269005fffd816b
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26th Oct 2018, 11:27 PM #8New Member
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- Oct 2018
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- San Diego, California
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Thanks for the reply, this particular lathe has a spindle bore larger than a #5 mt as on my 13” southbend. Strangely enough my 12” Clausing takes a #4-1/2 mt. Once again the large end is approx 1-5/8”
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26th Oct 2018, 11:33 PM #9New Member
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- Oct 2018
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- San Diego, California
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- 4
Thanks for the reply, this lathe takes larger than #5mt as on my southbend 13”. Strangely enough, my 12” Clausing takes a #4-1/2mt. Once again, the large end of the spindle is approximately 1-5/8”.
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27th Oct 2018, 01:30 PM #10Philomath in training
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- Norwood-ish, Adelaide
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Some of these headstock tapers are 'stub' tapers - the same taper as the full length version but truncated (can't recall whether from the front or the back). Unless you can find another taper device that fits and match it that way, you are stuck with having to measure it and then using something like machinery's handbook to work out what you have. For some strange reason many of the morse tapers have slightly different taper rates so at least if you can work out the taper, you have a fair chance of working out the number.
(A thought - can you grease the inside of the taper, plug the bore and then use something like fibreglass body filler to make a plug? Might be easier to measure...)
Michael
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27th Oct 2018, 11:20 PM #11New Member
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- Oct 2018
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- San Diego, California
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Thanks for the reply, I do have a “machinists handbook “ and will try to measure. I will post the results when I find out.
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13th Jul 2021, 01:27 PM #12New Member
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- Jul 2021
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- USA
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- 64
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- 1
Laurences, Thank you much for making this manual available!
Laurences,
Thank you very much for making this manual available! I recently acquired a TIDA model TD-1236G made in 1990 also and need to do some work on it to make it a usable lathe. I have been looking for a manual for it but haven't found one till I stumbled across your posting. I am not sure what the variable is from the model E to the model G that I have but it appears to be trivial from what I see in the manual you posted.
I acquired my lathe from an older gentlemen in trade for doing some electrical work for him wiring up a 3phase generator, panel wiring, and hooking up his monster old Lathe. I believe he is as happy as I am about our benefits from the deal.
Any way, THANKS Laurences! From Indiana USA
Kind Regards,
Dave Hooley
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25th Jul 2021, 06:36 PM #13Novice
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- May 2018
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- Sydney
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- 11
Tilda update
Hi Dave Hooley,
Sorry for the delay in replying, I was not at home and could not get to the Garage, I got back and dug down to reveal the lathe and take some photos.
it was great you sent a message, I can see others have had a look, I have even been back as I was doing some screw cutting and wanted the info I put up !
I bought my lathe 2nd hand it was made on 1990, it has been copied many times and you can find info on the China copy... as I said it’s not a tool room lathe.
Apparently Harbour freight bought it in to the USA When I was trying to find out about it I required a couple of spare parts...
When I got it had a 6” 3 jaw on it, and I put a new face plate cast iron disk (after market) and mounted a 10 “ 3 jaw chuck, the single phase motor could not handle the weight. So I changed the Motor to a new one, but it still has problems with heavy cuts... I have since bought a 2.2 kva single to 3 phase inverter.
But don’t have a suitable 3 phase motor (I had one but someone needed it more than me, I had it in a cupboard at work and when i went to get it it was gone.....)
we run 240v ac and a 15 amp out let here. and (415 3 phase) which I don't have in the house.
Any way Problems I have with the lathe...
Cross slide double brass nut is a pig, it vibrates and the wedge comes undone, causing more chatter. ( will make a new nut for this as the one I have is very poor quality. ( bad design and Manufacture )
The tool post is not very strong and you can see the tool move down when you put a cut on !
The gear box leaks oil... leaks out, seals have gone...
Up grades, as you can see from the photos I have added a rev Counter, and a digital display on cross slide and longitudinal feed. Splash back and new quick change tool post.
I have mad a saddle stop mounted on the bed, so I can set the stop to depths of boring.
I set up the cross slide display on the back this way I can get the tail stock up to its normal position.
I have seen people who remove the cross / compound slide and make a heavy duty tool post for the heavy cuts.
It’s not a bad lathe, but I used to work in a Tool room and had good lathes.
I am now retired and only use it to do odd jobs and have the Myford 7” lathe to do the small stuff.
My lathe has a metric Lead screw and I was happy with the Acme thread I made.
I don't know what the E or G stand for... sorry
I have attached some photos of the mods I have done.
When I was Younger, I went to Chicago and drove to Oil city Pennsylvania, and drove through South Bend, Gary Indiana... not one of the best locations.... I was born in London, but I ended up in Sydney Australia.
Thanks for the contact
Best wishes
Laurence
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