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  1. #1
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Default Paint for the inside of a steel Lube/coolant tank

    I posted this in the Hercus forum but I know that forum is a no go zone for some members so I will post my question again here in a general form to seek a wider viewpoint.

    I have a coolant lube tank made of painted steel that fits neatly under my mill that has been let go rusty. I have passivated the rust using electrolysis and tannic acid and now would like to repaint it. My question is what sort of paint if any should I use, Epoxy, Enamel, Polyurethane, Cold Galv . . . . .?

    I though about replacing the whole thing with a plastic tank but the steel tank already has chip/fuid separator panels and pump supports built into the tank.

    Thanks.

    BEforeandafter.jpg

  2. #2
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    Great transformation Bob.

    How about a bituminous or coal tar epoxy coating - https://www.rustoleum.com/product-ca...oal-tar-epoxy/

    Bob.

  3. #3
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    Maybe l am slack, l wouldn't bother as the coolant should.control the rust and no paint flaking off = less blockages
    shed

  4. #4
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    Hi there.

    Im with Shed, i wouldnt bother But if you really are keen to paint it then as AB said, coal tar or another product which i have used is POR15 which is excellent.

    Simon

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  5. #5
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    I gave up using water based coolant years ago due to the rust problems, switched over to using Auto transmission oil,no rust anywhere on my mill or lathe now.
    Bob

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by krisfarm View Post
    I gave up using water based coolant years ago due to the rust problems, switched over to using Auto transmission oil,no rust anywhere on my mill or lathe now.
    Bob
    Hi Bob, do you run the ATF through your suds tank/pump?
    I do remember having some rust years ago using the mineral based coolant and l used to often get infected fingers with it also, now that l use either semi or full synthetic coolant both problems are solved, l can leave a machine after using coolant and a week later it has a nice film of oil over it.

    shed

  7. #7
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    On my lather I have been using various brands of water soluble oil on teh lathe and bandsaw and provided I stick to the right dilution ratio haven't had probs with rust. For the last 2 years I have been using Rocol which is even better has a half dilution ratio which means a little goes a long way. However it sounds like TTM would solve the tank rust issue problem .

    How's the ATF on painted surfaces? No wait, that's brake fluid I'm thinking of that lifts paint pretty easily.

    Suggestions for cheap source of ATF would be useful.



    Thanks

  8. #8
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    I don't know if this is available in Perth https://www.shipways.com.au/paint/tiles-laminates.html
    it is a product of Topline paint in Lonsdale SA

  9. #9
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    shedhappens & BobL
    Yes I just use the standard tank/pump system in both my lathe and mill.Originally I started out using a few different brands of coolant mixed at the recommended ratios but after a while I found rust spots developing on both machines. I also found it very difficult to keep the mixture at the recommended rates as the evaporation rate here in summer is quite high, I had to top up each week.One day I removed my mills vice and found quite a lot of rust had developed under it. The coolants I was using were not the semi or full synthetic ones. I did look at these but decided that the price for them was way too high for the amount I needed. I talked to a mate of mine about the problem, who is an industrial chemist and he said try using ATF oil as it is one of the best grades of oil available.I ended up talking to my local auto transmission service guy and arranged for him to fill up two 20 litre drums of the cleanest used oil. I originally ran this through a filter set up, but now I just use it after the oil has settled for a few months.
    Bob

  10. #10
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Thanks Guys
    Just called my mechanic and he is going to put aside the next 40L he gets.
    Does it help to clean to clean it up by chucking a couple of magnets in with it?

  11. #11
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    BobL
    The magnets would be a good idea just to check.I will put a few in one of my drums to see if they pick up anything as well All auto transmissions do have a very good filter in them as they require very clean oil to function properly. On my first batch of oil I set up a pump and the finest filter I could find and after it had finished I cut the filter open and found it had virtually nothing in it. Now I just let the oil sit for months and just take the oil from the top. If we think about our coolant in use it would be picking up little bits of metal all the time when machining, I have a few magnets in the sump of both my lathe and mill and clean them every time I top up, they all ways have small chips and grindings on them.
    Bob

  12. #12
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    Does the ATF give off much smoke ?

  13. #13
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    I would think the amount of smoke would depend on the flow rate. Higher flow rate should help keep the temperatures down and prevent smoking although thicker cuts may simply be too much for it.

    I spent a few minutes cruising MSDS etc for ATF.
    Firstly it has very good heat carrying capacity (specific heat), almost 78% of that for water, but of course that is what it is designed to do.

    The MSDS for 3 different oils all classify ATF as non hazardous although it may produce some skin irritation.

    The are no specific oil mist exposure levels provided but the recommend using levels for Toluene (50 ppm) and diphenylamine (10 mg/m^3). No special ventilation is required unless oil mists are generated and for which a small exhaust fan should be able to control. One of the MSDS reports formaldehyde as a possible combustion product which should be removed.

  14. #14
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    Hi Bob, I'm a bit late to this thread, but if you still want to paint the inside of your suds tank, two possible suitable coatings might be epoxy and whatever engine manufacturers use inside the crank cases of engines. During my working life in the mining industry I recall a story of one of the Caterpillar engines having its block hot tanked before overhaul. This stripped all the paint from the block, but Caterpillar were insistent that the interior be repainted before re-assembly, and apparently the required paint was very expensive. It possibly came with a Caterpillar part number and there may be less expensive options, engine reconditions may be able to assist, or you may find that industrial epoxy paints would do the job and may be less expensive.
    Good luck with it, I hope that you are able to find a cost effective and affordable solution for you.
    Rob.

  15. #15
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    pipeclay
    If you are doing heavy cuts on the lathe it does smoke, I use a small fan to blow it out of my garage. On the mill using a heavy flow it does not smoke.
    Bob

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