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Thread: TCG questions

  1. #1
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    Default TCG questions

    This is a 5" cup wheel with a 1 1/4" bore, I need to make flanges and a spacer to mount it onto a 1/2" spindle. What diameter flanges should I use for this wheel? Is there a rule of thumb for flange diameters?
    IMG_1386.jpg

    The job is to reface these curved hardened steel cam followers which are 9/16" x 1 1/4" x 4" radius, taking off 10 to 15 thou will probably clean them up. I'll have the followers set up in a radiusing jig and sweep them past the above grinding wheel by hand. Once the follower has made contact with the wheel how much should I advance the follower for each sweep? Any thoughts suggestions observations gratefully received.
    IMG_1388.jpg
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  2. #2
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    Hi Bob, the nearest information that I can find, is that the blotter must NEVER be smaller that the flange, so I'd make the flange diameter about 6mmsmaller than the blotter.
    Also from https://industryrailway.com/blotter-...ze-whats-rule/
    "The lesson is simple, use only blotters that are equal to, or larger than the machine mounting flanges. Never re-use old blotters when remounting wheels. Never use a blotter smaller than the machine’s flanges."

    Found this article to be very informative.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  3. #3
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    You don't use flanges on A T&C you use hubs e.g. William Sopko & Sons Co., Inc - Cincinatti Taper Wheel Adapters

  4. #4
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    Thanks for that China, very helpful information.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  5. #5
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    Hi Bob, the OD for the wheel arbours for my Repco T&C grinder are 52 mm, the wheel hole is also 1 1/4".
    //metalworkforums.com/f303/t200...87#post1924887
    and a bit of a write up about them here, //metalworkforums.com/f303/t200...59#post1926859
    cheers, shed

  6. #6
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    I have a bunch of spare wheel arbours for 1 1/4” diameter wheels.
    Judging by the link that China posted they will fit Cincinnati type machines.
    Let me know if they are of interest.
    Cheers
    Edwin

  7. #7
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    Default

    Thanks guys. This is a 50s CC Engineering TCG with a plain 1/2" threaded shaft. I can see the value in the Cincinnati type arbors, probably the best approximation I can come up with it to make the back flange and hub in one piece.

    Any thoughts on infeeds per sweep? This all new to me I want to make sure I don't burn or temper the cam followers, I want to avoid using coolant.

  8. #8
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    Bob

    I would be looking at under 1/2 a thou infeed with a very open wheel. I would also fit one of those cheap mist coolant hoses. The heat builds up really quick.

    Ken

  9. #9
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    I think that the lip that has formed from running beside the cam lobe will grind off fairly easilly, as to the depth of the grinding l would take it easy as Toggy said, you will soon get an idea as to what depth passes to make.
    Mark the surface with texta to see what is grinding, they may be worn on an angle. Have you had the cam ground?
    It is surprising to me that they dont have stellite on there.

  10. #10
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    If the Cam follower is off the Hudson, I doubt that Stellite was used as a coating back then. Found an interesting article on the inventor of Stellite; https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elwood_Haynes
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  11. #11
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Toggy View Post
    Bob

    I would be looking at under 1/2 a thou infeed with a very open wheel. I would also fit one of those cheap mist coolant hoses. The heat builds up really quick.

    Ken
    This is the label on the grinding wheel shown in the first post, its what I intend to grind the cam followers with, is it open enough? Where I bought the wheel they also had a version that looked like a swiss cheese, is that the type I should go for?

    IMG_1407.jpg

  12. #12
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    Bob,

    From my small understanding of the matter is that wheel would be for softer steels. I am not sure of what the 9A represents(no time to research it at the moment), but the 46 is a coarse grit which helps cooling a bit. K is a hard bond. For hardened and tool steels the bond to use is in the region of 'G' or 'H'.

    Story.... When I first acquired my T&CG I tried to obtain wheels as specified years ago from the manufacturer, via a disinterested country supplier. Most of the grades had changed and I was sent sort of "equivalent" grade wheels from what Norton had on hand. They have reduced their range. One wheel burns HSS on contact and loads up. I'm sure it even burns the surrounding air. One cup wheel is as you describe 'like a swiss cheese'. This is a very open wheel and just rips the metal off with no overheating.

    From memory (not so good) I think that some manufacturers use the designation VO or VOP for the very open wheels.

    Ken

  13. #13
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    Default Job done

    Thanks for the advice guys. I made a 4" radius radiusing jig for my CC Engineering TCG using a pair of ball bearings for the swivel, one at the top and one at the bottom of the column. The lip at the front of the swivel arm holds the cam follower in its correct orientation.
    IMG_1554.jpg

    The cam followers are secured in the jig by a draw bar into the tappet adjuster threads.
    IMG_1556.jpg

    I used a very open grinding wheel which created no heat, I was able to do the job dry. I found that I could quickly remove the lips on the edges of the cam followers with a 1 thou infeed. Once I'd got rid of the lips and was cleaning up the whole surface of the cam follower a half thou infeed worked well. Total metal removal was between 10 and 15 thou per cam follower.
    IMG_1564.jpg

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