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13th Mar 2018, 01:44 AM #1.
- Join Date
- Nov 2008
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- Perth WA
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- 71
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- 6,458
Ball Turning Simplified With The Aid Of Saddle Stops.
Probably of little interest to those with DROs but to others, maybe?
I have been trying to make a handle similar to that used by Multifix on their retractable threading tool. The handle is very much like that used on their 40 position toolposts in that it incorporates a broached 12 point through hole at an angle through the ball end. The ball had been causing me grief and the 4140 I chose to use was probably a contributor along with the not so easy to adjust ball turner.
The handle below is version 3. Version 1 couldn't really be described as a ball and version 2 became scrap when it pulled out of the chuck.
Success was achieved when I used a stop on each side of the saddle. The stops were locked against the saddle when the cutter was at 90 degrees and centred on the 20mm long and round section of the bar. With a live centre in place, the left hand stop was loosened and moved towards the headstock along with the saddle facilitating cutting the left hand radius. To cut the outer end of the ball, the left hand stop was re-positioned and locked with the saddle hard against the right hand stop ensuring that the cutter was again centred on what remained of the 20mm long section of the bar. With the right hand stop moved out of the way cutting the radius on the unsupported outer end was done with extreme caution. Nothing went bang.
BT
img7.jpg IMG_20180307_154416736 (Large).jpg IMG_20180311_114240302 (Large).jpg
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13th Mar 2018, 06:37 PM #2Senior Member
- Join Date
- May 2011
- Location
- Castlemaine
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- 244
BT,
Most people would be happy if they could produce the stuff you chuck in the scrap bin.
After you complet this tool I think you will be eligible for a Swiss passport
Cheers
Piers
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13th Mar 2018, 08:49 PM #3.
- Join Date
- Nov 2008
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- Perth WA
- Age
- 71
- Posts
- 6,458
Thanks for puffing me up Piers!
Version 1 ( left below) was a failure from the outset. The 11mm socket pressed into the ball turned out to be too large. Had I bothered to draw something properly I would have realised the glaring error. For some weird reason I struggle to draw something legible for myself. Version 2 incorporates a 10mm socket, the right size.
BT
IMG_20180311_115643194 (Large).jpg IMG_20180313_142209791_HDR (Large).jpg IMG_20180313_132655190 (Large).jpg
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13th Mar 2018, 10:41 PM #4Most Valued Member
- Join Date
- May 2011
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- Murray Bridge S Aust.
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- 71
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- 5,945
Thanks for that Bob. Did you machine the hex punch first, then press it through, using the tailstock of the lathe, or was it rotary broached?
Just a bit vague at the moment or is it me!!!
KrynTo grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
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13th Mar 2018, 11:57 PM #5.
- Join Date
- Nov 2008
- Location
- Perth WA
- Age
- 71
- Posts
- 6,458
Hi Kryn,
No broaching on my behalf. The 12 point socket on my handle was formerly a Kincrome 1/2" drive deep socket. It is pressed and secured with Loctite RC/635 Retaining Compound in the ball. The hex on the end of the shaft is simply the mount for the handle.
BT
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14th Mar 2018, 12:14 AM #6Most Valued Member
- Join Date
- May 2011
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- Murray Bridge S Aust.
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- 71
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- 5,945
AH HAA, it looked as if you'd made the 12 point in the handle!!!!Thanks for explainng it, nice work too, by the way.
I've done a similar thing, used a 10 mm elcheapo socket with a bolt (with the head cut off) welded on, to replace the crappy alloy handles. Quick fixes for me, as it's not my machine.
KrynTo grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
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