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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Bundaberg QLD
    Posts
    42

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    Purchased Lathe in 2011 sometime

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Bundaberg QLD
    Posts
    42

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Grahame Collins View Post
    The AL3336 lathe description reads

    Adjustable taper roller bearings support the spindle

    Roller bearings are what you appear to have. Nothing surprises me when it comes to Chinese manufacturing.
    Some questions first.
    Have you had the top cover off your lathe yet?

    Have you checked your lathe for the correct grade and quantity of oil?

    I would surmise the lathe a similar splash lube system to mine, as they are almost identical in external appearance. A small internal gutter catches the splashed oil from the cover and channels it around to the holes supplying bearing housings.
    Warning at this point.Do not be tempted to flick the jog button and flick it over without the cover in place. I can assure you the splash system performs exceedingly well.

    What I found was that a loose portion of the sealant had partially blocked the gravity feed hole to the inboard bearing.

    I gave mine a gutful of Castrol Hyspin and not touched it since.It still rattles and clangs but has done that since day one.

    Some of the above may be possibly the reason for the racket but the lathes are inherently noisy anyway.My lathe is a Metal Master 1236 circa 2007.

    When I made inquiries about non Chinese precision lathe bearings the answer came back they were 1/3rd the original cost of the lathe.
    I never bothered after that and the lathe still runs.
    Thank you for this post. I Lolled at the Jog button comment! (Like putting oil behind the chuck or on the back gears while it is running!) I did not have this problem as I had my lathe switched off. I did squirt some diesel down the internal gutters an watched it disappear down both gravity feed holes.
    I replaced the oil in it only recently and removed the old oil and managed to get a few rags in around the spindles to fully wipe up all the existing oil and diesel which I used to clean the Gears,spindles and anything I could clean up. Managed to find a little spot of molding sand in one of the corners which was cakes on hard.Needless to say she was nearly spotless before adding the new oil(iso46 hydraulic fluid).
    My lathe has been very noisy since I have owned it and assumed that is normal but recent you tube videos of other people's lathes have convinced me a few new bearings might just be what's needed for this lathe's longevity and my ear drums.
    I realise this may do very little for noise but running my lathe with hearing protection on is annoying.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
    Posts
    2,129

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    Yes if they are tight it will still turn freely, depending on how tight they are.
    I would sugest that if you cant find that the screaming is coming from elsewhere then it would be a good idea to loosen the adjustment nut off, spin the chuck around by hand a few times then run the adjustment nut up till it just touches and tighten the grub screw, put the lid back on and run it and listen now for any changes.
    Who knows you might save some time and moola.
    If it now sounds ok you will need to adjust it properly

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Age
    56
    Posts
    1,416

    Default

    I've heard some bad stories both here and other forums about the quality of the H&F lathes, mainly sand or grit in the headstock.
    If you have owned the lathe for a while, you know what it used to sound like and what it sounds like now, maybe some sand or grit has worked it's way into the bearings down the oil holes.

    They are taper bearings so should be easy to spot the problem after you remove them by inspecting the races.
    It takes under a half an hour to remove the spindle, so take it out, grab the bearing part numbers or measure them.
    Then if you need to use the lathe replace it while you wait for the new bearings to arrive.

    My Toolex lathe I bought new in 2003, has never let me down and passed every inspection I gave it, not one sign of sand or grit anywhere and bearings are going fine.
    Using Tapatalk

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Bundaberg QLD
    Posts
    42

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    Quote Originally Posted by shedhappens View Post
    Peter I had an AL336 for a few years and l was just thinking about the tin pate on top of the apron, part No 4 page 23, if you don't seal this plate your apron will get coolant and swarf in it.
    Dis you mean this?lid.png If so Thanks for the tip as I Have had no problem with the apron but will now take a look at the oil in it!

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Bundaberg QLD
    Posts
    42

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by OldRustyToolie View Post
    That bearing is even available on fleabay. NSK brand for around $100. Any bearing supplier should have it. Are you sure the bearing in your machine is a roller or is it the angular contact as per number?
    Not sure but will be taking bearings out and looking for a number on the actual bearing. I will fleabay the item if I can save some dollars. But I have to be certain of the part and I am dumb when it comes to bearings.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    4,779

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    I think your lathe will have the same spindle bearings as mine.

    A 30211 and a 30212 tapered roller bearings.

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    5,942

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    Before tearing the lathe apart and looking for the faulty bearing, you should be able to find any noisy bearings by the sound of it. If you have access to a mechanics stethoscope (similar to the Drs one, but with a tube instead of the round dohickey on the end), place it on the areas where the bearings are, and listen carefully. You should be able to hear a rumbling sound if the bearing is on its way out.
    IF you don't have one, use a long screwdriver and place the tip of the screwdriver in the similar places above, and put your hand over the handle and your EAR pressed over the back of your hand. If any rumbling sounds are heard, that is possibly the bearing. Try this method in other areas of the headstock to accertain whether it is bearings or gear noises. As others have mentioned, the noise could be coming from the drive train somewhere.
    Was it used when you bought it??
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

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