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  1. #16
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    66
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    3,284

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    Make sure that you get the conrods checked, as the motor had locked up, there is a chance that the rods are bent or twisted.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    645

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    Quote Originally Posted by SurfinNev View Post
    Have a look on eBay etc for Ball Joint Press Tool.

    I have this type which I bought to do Ford ball joints on my niece's car. The C clamp needed a bit of work to true up the faces though. Only used it the once so far but should work on other things. Got it for $90 IIRC.

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/21-pc-Un...4AAOSwN2VZTRA1
    Does that have any flex when put under a lot of pressure? do u know roughly how wide it is from the inside to the hole?
    Quote Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore View Post
    Make sure that you get the conrods checked, as the motor had locked up, there is a chance that the rods are bent or twisted.
    Kryn
    Yeah I'm going to get it checked out next week it might be a waste of time this crankshaft is a Yamaha OEM crank and is not rebuildable (the big end rod pin's are one piece with either side of the crank web)

    Here are some pictures the seller said he replaced the back No 3 cylinder because of it blowing up it was a common problem with these Yamaha 1200cc engines it could happen to anyone of the 3 cylinders but it always happened, the last owner has installed a new cylinder and a set of new pistons but one thing he missed was these two chunks of aluminium left down in the crankcase that worked there way into the No 3 conrod

    one of i think 6-7 main crankshaft bearings is a bit notchy must have some sand or something in it the rest of the bearings feel brand new no play at all and that nice soft smooth roll to them, all 3 big end rod bearings look brand new as well looks like thisjetski had a full engine rebuild not to long ago besides the later top end job
    Attached Images Attached Images

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Vic
    Age
    42
    Posts
    437

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    it has transfer ports in the cylinder, is it 2 stroke?

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    645

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    Yeah its a older model jetski 2 stroke Jack

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    645

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    Here is how i approached the second piston it was much easier to remove this way
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #21
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    66
    Posts
    3,284

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    Did you remove the spring clips/circlips, on the gudgeon pins, before you tried to press them out??
    As the crankshaft has roller bearings on all the journals the pins are pressed in, most 2 strokes are like that. Saw a video clip of an Asian/Indian bloke doing them, he roughly lined them up, sat them in a couple of V blocks, then rotated them, if it wobbled a bit, a hit with a lead hammer, then back on the V block and into the rack with the rest of them.
    Spark plugs are an important piece with 2 strokes too hot and the pistons melt, too cold and they foul up.
    I used to have an LJ 50 Suzuki 2 tanks of petrol and fill the oil container, change spark plugs every 3000kms. 549 CC of pure power
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    645

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    Hey Kryn Yeah I removed the clips I done that after the cylinders came off

    I made up a unleaded mix of around 20:1 with 2 stroke oIl, the running mix is somewhere around 40:1 pre mix for this model jetski so the bearings are plenty lubed

    Here is a video
    https://youtu.be/zqbuhGBBg3k

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Qld. Australia
    Posts
    770

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    Quote Originally Posted by gazza2009au View Post
    Does that have any flex when put under a lot of pressure? do u know roughly how wide it is from the inside to the hole?
    No flex that I noticed and I had what I thought was a fair amount of pressure on it to seat the ball joints. I removed them old fashioned way with FBH. With the screw inserted full thread depth there is 125mm between the ends. Not sure where the instructions are, but seem to remember something about a 3tonne rating on the C clamp but not certain about that.
    Nev.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
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    645

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    Thanks Nev

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Southern Highlands NSW
    Posts
    1,247

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    Quote Originally Posted by gazza2009au View Post
    i would still like one of those big heavy duty C clamp presses for future use
    I'd say Grahame's suggested tool is better. It's dedicated to doing one job right - removing gudgeon pins from pistons.
    It looks light, but that's because it works in double shear, not open single shear like the C type tool - so doesn't need to be made bulky.
    The Toolpro C tool might be more versatile, but looks like it's waiting to snap something when over stressed one day.

    Jordan

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    645

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    Does anyone have plans for a basic 50 ton press? If I can make a press i'm looking at rebuilding my crankshaft, have read 20 ton is not strong enough 30-50 ton is needed

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Mackay North Qld
    Posts
    4,369

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    HI gazza2009au,
    I am not trying to place hurdles in your way, but having built a heavy duty 20 ton press I can speak from some experience

    There are literally dozens of designs out there on the net.All of them vary between makers.

    There are quite a few design parameters that need to be decided upon before construction begins.

    Ok! you want to split the crank.

    There will be a certain throat size between the horizontal cross members needed to fit your crankshaft.

    The hydraulic cylinder type and how it mounts to the top cross member-some are static, some can be moved from side to side on rollers.

    Is the press cylinder operation manual or powered?Air over hydraulic or electric over hydraulic.

    The cross member pin diameter and type of material. I would suggest pin diameters upwards of 22 mm and made from better than a low carbon steel.

    Do you have the 22mm+ drilling capacity in your machinery?

    The sizing of the cross members to prevent deflection.What channel type will be used. Tapered flange channels might be stronger as there is more meat where it counts.

    A starting point might be 150 x 75 x 10 with some plate infills on the open sides of the channel.

    A winch shall be needed to move your moveable cross members up and down.

    The span between uprights determines the sizing of cross members. There's more deflection as that dimension span increases.

    As press capacities increase so does the need for some type of protection between you and what is being pressed. I would consider some form of containment mesh.

    Some design ideas can be found in Google if you punch in "diy 50 ton press" into Google search and then click the images title at the top lh side.

    Members should be able to add to this as you can bet I have forgotten something.

    Grahame

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    645

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    Thanks Grahame that's what i needed to read, the 150x75mm C channel is quiet expensive at $50 per meter i worked out i will need around 8 meters, my crankshaft is 125mm wide so the 150mm C channel would work great just need to find a cheaper supplier in Sydney

    i have a ryobi bench drill that i was drilling 19mm holes in some 5mm steel SHS using a standard 19mm HSS bit i guess i would most likely use a Sutton hole saw for steel i think my drill should be capable of 22mm with a reduced shank if it does not fit

    the plan is to build something as pictured below this one is rated 50T i will use a 50T bottle jack with a short guided pin below the jack
    Attached Images Attached Images

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Mackay North Qld
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    4,369

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    What can be handy is to machine a groove in that pin below the jack.
    I take it that the bottle jack will be the right way up and then have the pusher pin welded to a plate below the jack base.

    It allows you to slip suitably bored round bars welded to multiple attachments over that pusher pin.

    It then follows that the press can be fitted with attachments like pusher bars, thin and thick ones, and a die for a short vee block among others.

    A finger screw secures the slip-over bored bar into the groove on the pusher pin.

    I like the heavy flat bar uprights in the pic as they would allow something like an axle to be straightened by inserting it between the uprights. Flat bar in 100 x 12 might work out cheaper than the channel for the uprights and its only under tension.

    Grahame

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
    Posts
    994

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    I had one of these for a while https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/PRESS-Hy...YAAOSwEjFXce4q It was sorta ok but I don't think that it would have handled a real 50 ton push. I used to get a bit worried at 35 ton on the gauge because the press would flex so much that I thought that it would leap off the floor if whatever I was pressing let go.

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