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15th Feb 2018, 04:17 PM #1Most Valued Member
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Herless Surface Grinder - 1987 Model TFY618
After a rush of blood to the head it seems I'm now the owner of one of these surface grinders.
Apparently it might be a re-badged Ta Fu Yuan brand (Taiwanese), but other than that I've had a decent search online and not come up with much info on them.
Anyone have one themselves, or any info on them?
For starters I'm after any specific info on moving one as I'll be picking it up on Monday. Alternatively any general info/experience about moving small manual surface grinders.
Steve
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16th Feb 2018, 12:54 AM #2
Congratulations!
Generally speaking, the first thing to check is if the table is sitting on slideways or roller/ball bearings. If the latter, DO NOT transport it with the table in place - remove it.
Second generalisation is - if it is on slideways, tie it in place somehow, so it can't move about while in transit.
Thirdly, get it picked up by the base, not the column or any movable protrusions (like the spindle cartridge .
Many surface grinders and other machine tools have dedicated hooks, lugs, holes or through-holes for lifting bars to pick them up. Look for anything cast in or or bolted on that clearly serves no other purpose - and look for holes near the top of the base that are in line with holes on the opposite side (like back and front).
Good luck!Cheers, Joe
retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....
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16th Feb 2018, 08:27 PM #3Most Valued Member
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Thanks Joe - great info.
I don't know whether its on slideways or bearings, and unfortunately got too busy today to call them before they closed. Guess I'll find out on Monday morning when I get there and will just prepare as best I can to be able to remove the table if need be.
I'll post some decent photos once I've got it.
Steve
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16th Feb 2018, 10:02 PM #4
Just in case you can't remove the table at the seller's place - e.g. because of hydraulic cylinder connected or whatever: you could take some strips of timber or aluminium that may allow you to pack up the table a little higher than the roller elements its siting on. That would be an alternative. You would of course have to be more careful about tying the table to the base so it doesn't move in transit.
Cheers, Joe
retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....
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17th Feb 2018, 05:05 PM #5Most Valued Member
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Great idea about packing the table up. Is it just the X axis that could be bearings, or possibly also the Y axis too?
After a fair amount of Googling I finally found a couple of images of this model showing 4 threaded holes on the main casting for attaching eye bolts to lift from, but no way of confirming what size thread from the photo. I'd be guessing 10mm, but I'll take 8, 10 and 12mm ones and slings etc. There's a forklift onsite that can load it for me so hoping it can just be carefully forked onto a pallet, strapped to the pallet for stability, then the whole lot forked on.
Steve
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17th Feb 2018, 06:14 PM #6Most Valued Member
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19th Feb 2018, 11:10 AM #7Most Valued Member
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The pickup went well. Currently at my work so half way home.
Table is on slides not balls which made things simpler.
Its had a conversion to pneumatic X feed in the past. Needs a new on-off valve for that, and some new air lines. You can see the X feed handwheel has been removed as part of the conversion. The head moves up and down smoothly, and I lowered it down gently onto some bits of MDF so that it wasn't bouncing round during the trip home.
My first thought when I had a close look at the chuck was - "bugger, the handle has been broken off". Thankfully not the case, it just has a removable alley-key style handle.
Some piccy's as promised:
IMG_4011 (Medium).JPG
IMG_4012 (Medium).JPG
IMG_4013 (Medium).JPG
IMG_4014 (Medium).JPG
IMG_4015 (Medium).JPG
Steve
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19th Feb 2018, 06:20 PM #8New Member
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I have one of these that looks identical however the x- axis on mine definitely runs on ball bearings.
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19th Feb 2018, 08:15 PM #9Deceased
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How did you end up lifting it? Both of mine (different to yours) have holes for bars to go through.
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19th Feb 2018, 10:38 PM #10
It looks like all went well! Congratulations!
Please remove the wheel from the arbor and 'ring it' (completely free and off the machine - have a look at some youtube videos to find out what it should sound like. You did everything right and your loading and tieing looks great. BUT you cannot exclude someone bumping or hitting the wheel or a pothole shocking it en route. If it doesn't sound clear as a bell, break it in half and use it for deburring! Because surface grinders run so smoothly, their grinding wheels seem totally innocent. However, if one lets go, the shrapnel has enormous inertia and is extremely destructive - especially if it hits someone.
I've had a small workpiece tip over during grinding once and take a medium chip out of the wheel. No damage done, but I will NEVER let that happen again!!! It was the most frightening event in my workshop - INCLUDING any events where I got injured (never anything more serious than loosing a bit of blood and needing a couple of stitches ).
That small chunk hitting the spark guard, then the roof then a wall frightened the CR4P out of me!!!Cheers, Joe
retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....
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19th Feb 2018, 10:41 PM #11Most Valued Member
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The pickup involved forklifting it onto a pallet and then onto the ute.
Getting it off at home wasn't quite as easy. The base has 16mm threaded holes in it for lifting eyes, but the biggest ones I had was 12mm.
Ended up using a short length of 16mm threaded rod in each hole with a nut either side, and a 1m sling onto the chain block hook. Not ideal but estimating the total weight at around 600-700kg's spread across the 4 points I was comfortable it was going to be OK.
More of an issue was the height. I only just got it high enough with the hook right up against the chain block and my body weight on the deck of the ute to allow me to get the pallet out.
IMG_4019 (Medium).JPG
Safely back on the ground on a pallet:
IMG_4021 (Medium).JPG
The wheel mounting flanges look like they've had a hard time in the past. There's a pin spanner for the flange but no puller for getting it off the shaft. Guessing I need to make one:
IMG_4020 (Medium).jpg
One-shot oiler:
IMG_4031 (Medium).JPG
The lower protective cover has seen better days:
IMG_4030 (Medium).JPG
Steve
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19th Feb 2018, 10:54 PM #12Most Valued Member
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Stuffed if I can work out how to remove that thumbnail from my last post
Looks like it was chain driven prior to getting the pneumatic conversion:
IMG_4032 (Medium).JPG
This looks like the end link of the chain was previously pinned to it:
IMG_4022 (Medium).JPG
And maybe an idler pulley used to live here on the LH end of the table??
IMG_4033 (Medium).JPG
Guess I've got to work this mess out...
IMG_4028 (Medium).JPGIMG_4026 (Medium).JPGIMG_4027 (Medium).JPG
Steve
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19th Feb 2018, 11:04 PM #13Most Valued Member
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21st Feb 2018, 10:27 AM #14Most Valued Member
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Any chance yours is a chain drive like this one appears to have been? I'm be keen to get some info on how the chain is routed/attached.
Having never run a surface grinder, I'm thinking I might convert it back to manual for a start while I get used to it, then sort out the pneumatic traverse later.
Steve
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26th Feb 2018, 02:07 PM #15Most Valued Member
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A question for those of you that have surface grinders - in my situation (ie with this grinder and zero surface grinding experience) would you concentrate on getting the pneumatic traverse working first, or mess about converting it back to a manual cable/chain?
I'm concerned I might be biting off more than I can chew trying to teach myself the basics of grinding at the same time as getting the pneumatics sorted, but I don't want to invest time in converting it back to manual unless its going to make a big difference to the learning process.
Steve
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