Results 1 to 13 of 13
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Perth WA
    Age
    71
    Posts
    6,458

    Default A Question for the Douglas Shaper Dismantlers

    I know a couple of owners have had their shapers apart so this is a question I hope might be answered. How is the 7/8" diameter pin ( yellow arrowed ) that retains the bottom link ( blue arrowed ) removed? I have had a go with a largish hammer and an aluminium drift but it has not budged. I have not been able to detect any set screws or pins that may prevent its removal.

    The shaper makes a sound somewhere between a click and a clunk at the end of the ram's forward stroke and the sound disappears when a section of broom handle is carefully placed and pushed against the link removing the side play on the rocker arm's pin. The link has about 2mm side play which I'm hoping to remove with shims if it can be dismantled.

    Any advice will be appreciated.

    Bob.


    DSC_8549 1 (Large).JPG

    DSC_8539 (Large).jpg

    PS. The copious oil that lubricates these components has been removed for the sake of clarity.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Kyabram. Vic
    Posts
    632

    Default

    Bob,

    The 10" Alba had the same sort of noise, With it the centre "fork" is slightly different in there is a fork at the bottom of it where your link joins it. That fork straddles the pin indicated and causes wear on either side. I found a grub screw on a boss for that pin and just rotated the pin 90 degrees. May be that your grub screw is on the underside. Another wear spot is the sliding block. I have a piece of cast iron I will eventually make a new one from.

    Ken

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    texas, queensland
    Posts
    248

    Default

    go to this page and click the picture of the machine for a pdf file parts list and exploded type view of all parts . may help you or may not but handy to have anyway .


    Douglas 11" Stroke Shaper (10-1/2" Cut) · Old Machine Information Archives

    johno
    'If the enemy is in range, so are you.'

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Perth WA
    Age
    71
    Posts
    6,458

    Default

    Hello Ken,

    Sounds like the clunk might be a common shaper affliction. I had a visit from Alan "C-47" yesterday and he said his Elliott makes a similar sound. I might make a pair of slotted brass shims that could slide down each side of the rocker arm at the pin location and see if they eliminate the noise. As you suggest, the sliding block could be a contributor. I will investigate further.

    Bob,

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Perth WA
    Age
    71
    Posts
    6,458

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by texx View Post
    go to this page and click the picture of the machine for a pdf file parts list and exploded type view of all parts . may help you or may not but handy to have anyway.

    johno
    Thanks Johno,

    I have had a copy of the parts list for as long as I've owned the shaper. It would appear that the pin is retained by friction only but on my machine there must be a lot of it because the pin doesn't want to move.

    Bob.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Kyabram. Vic
    Posts
    632

    Default

    Bob,
    The Alba is an earlier version to the Elliot. They had a major problem if the top pivot of the fork did not get enough lubricant. It would seize and snap the joint and the fork flail around inside. Mine has had this failure and a shop made fabricated steel fork fitted. The steel sliding areas are prone to wear also. The cast iron base has a lump but no fractures where some runaway part has most likely come to a stop.

    My 18" Macson is extremely quiet and has almost no wear.

    Ken

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Southern Highlands NSW
    Posts
    1,894

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Anorak Bob View Post
    It would appear that the pin is retained by friction only but on my machine there must be a lot of it because the pin doesn't want to move.
    That's right, Bob. No additional fasteners or anything other than a press fit for this pin.
    I used a brass bar to drift it out.
    I think it's a case of, "Don't force it - use a bigger hammer."

    Jordan

    Douglas pin.jpg
    Last edited by nadroj; 8th Dec 2017 at 06:38 PM. Reason: added pic

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Ballina N.S.W.
    Posts
    644

    Default

    Hi BT,t sup
    By the looking at that photo, I think you would have to make up a steel sport piece that fits around the diameter of the shaft and fits tightly between the forked fitting and the far wall of the shaper to remove any movement. I am thinking along the lines of a bush that is bored a little larger than the shaft diameter with an outside diameter close to the outside diameter of the forked fitting, then split the bush length ways and clamp it around the shaft with a worm drive clamp A lot of your energy with your hammer is being absorbed by the fork being able to move when you hit it. A big hammer around 4lbs with as large as possible brass drift.
    Bob

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Perth WA
    Age
    71
    Posts
    6,458

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by nadroj View Post
    That's right, Bob. No additional fasteners or anything other than a press fit for this pin.
    I used a brass bar to drift it out.
    I think it's a case of, "Don't force it - use a bigger hammer."

    Jordan
    I was hoping to hear from you Jordan. Thank you.

    The "drift" I have used unsuccessfully is a too long length of 5/8" aluminium rod I use as a knock out in the lathe's spindle. Too much spring I imagine. I do have a stumpy brass drift somewhere. The trick is finding it.

    Quote Originally Posted by krisfarm View Post
    Hi BT,t sup
    By the looking at that photo, I think you would have to make up a steel sport piece that fits around the diameter of the shaft and fits tightly between the forked fitting and the far wall of the shaper to remove any movement. I am thinking along the lines of a bush that is bored a little larger than the shaft diameter with an outside diameter close to the outside diameter of the forked fitting, then split the bush length ways and clamp it around the shaft with a worm drive clamp A lot of your energy with your hammer is being absorbed by the fork being able to move when you hit it. A big hammer around 4lbs with as large as possible brass drift.
    Bob
    Hi Bob.

    I'm assuming the forked link is a sliding fit because it pivots on the shaft. I had thought of fitting a two piece packer on the shaft between the forked link and the housing's cast boss, to remove the side play. Two piece to avoid disassembly. But there is always a but.

    Earlier experimentation in the form of jamming a plastic glazing packer (or shim?) between the fork and the rocker arm proved unsuccessful in removing the clunk. The entire bull wheel/ rocker arm assembly has side play and it's this side play that I think is causing the clunk. I don't want to introduce another part into the assembly that might on one hand eliminate the noise but on the other hand cause wear as a result of side loading. I am surprised that the bearing mounted bull wheel moves in and out.

    Bob.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    4,779

    Default

    Hi Bob,

    FWIW, my 18" macson has alot of wear and it too has a clunk noise just at the end of each stroke as the ram changes direction. I assume it's the small amount of wear between the sliding crank block and the fork. At the end of each stroke the direction of the force of the crank block changes from one side to the other and causes that clunk as it moves by that small amont of play from the wear.

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Perth WA
    Age
    71
    Posts
    6,458

    Default

    FWIW Simon, that you, Ken, Johno, Bob and Michael Green ( off forum) have all gone to the trouble of replying to this thread is worth a lot to me.

    It appears that the noise is part and parcel of the wear on a shaper. Maybe more on an unsophisticated version like a Douglas?

    Bob.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    4,779

    Default

    No worries Bob. It's the least I can do.

    Edit: I like the idea of a hydraulically driven shaper. They must be nice!

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Kyabram. Vic
    Posts
    632

    Default

    Bob,

    That's the idea. All pitch in and help each other.

    Ken

Similar Threads

  1. Douglas Shaper
    By Grahame Collins in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 26th Oct 2016, 12:38 AM
  2. QLD Douglas Shaper
    By DSEL74 in forum EBAY, GUMTREE, and other off forum sales sites
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 14th Jan 2016, 11:57 AM
  3. Novice using Douglas Shaper
    By bwal74 in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 62
    Last Post: 27th May 2012, 11:02 PM
  4. Douglas Shaper
    By lamestllama in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 41
    Last Post: 1st Mar 2012, 01:13 AM
  5. Douglas Shaper Eccentric Pin Question
    By Rodd Perrin in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 21
    Last Post: 17th Oct 2011, 08:45 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •